a downward glance reveals an enormous mushroom-
shaped apparition rising to the surface of the water,
billowing like a silk skirt. Galvanised, I will every
muscle into action and hoist myself along the rope,
relieved to find firm ground again.
It’s not exactly a typical Saturday afternoon. I’mwith
a group of seven first-time climbers, clinging to the
limestone faces of the sea cliffs of Parc National
des Calanques: craggy outcrops that fringe 20km of the
south-eastern coastline between Marseille and the
neighbouring town of Cassis. Literally meaning
‘
National Park of Inlets’, the name is aptly applied to a
place where the turquoise fingers of the Med extend
between towering cliffs to create a collection of bays so
beautiful that they look as though they have gone
through God’s own Photoshop.
Although it only got its protected status last year,
this unusual landscape has been admired for far longer
–
Arthur Rimbaud and Virginia Woolf were said to be
fans. In particular, the rocky surfaces and dramatic
backdrops have become a magnet for the climbing
community. Many of the greats – including the late
Gaston Rébuffat, author of
Starlight and Storm: The
Conquest of the Great North Faces of the Alps
,
and
Patrick Edlinger, known as ‘the god of free-climbing’ –
trained on these sun-drenched ledges. It’s also an
excellent place for beginners to give the sport a try.
“
No matter who you are, climbing here allows you
ON THE UP
01
“
Keep going! There’s a
jellyfish down there!”
02
All safety equipment
is supplied for the
day’s climb
03
Guide Pierre Clarac
offers instruction
and encouragement
04
Routes are pitched to
participants’ ability levels
“
MÉDUSE [JELLYFISH]!” COMES THE CRY,
AND A DOWNWARD GLANCE REVEALS
AN ENORMOUSMUSHROOM-SHAPED
APPARITION RISING TO THE SURFACE OF
THEWATER, BILLOWING LIKE A SILK SKIRT
03
04
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R O C K C L I M B I N G
M A R S E I L L E
