hide the dubious excitements of “Lips Cabaret” – it’s hard to
feel that he’s pinpointed my needs.
But then I strike gold. Down Rolandstrasse, a crowd of
20-
somethings are loitering by a scaffolding-clad bar, clearly
too cool to feel the cold. I duck in, happy to part with only
2
CHF (€1.66
for a beer and chat to the friendly, bearded
barstaff. The Kaiser Franz
(
22
Rolandstrasse
is warm and
welcoming, with a prohibition-era poster proclaiming “We
want beer” on the wall, and an array of spirits from around
the world twinkling invitingly. Luckily for me, it’s open till
two and, well… every local needs a favourite bar.
The next afternoon, after walking guiltily through
a few tourist must-dos, including the Landesmuseum
(
nationalmuseum.ch
)
and Kunsthaus (
kunsthaus.ch
)
for an
art fix, I meet up with an American I met on the Hash, who’s
offered to showme his favourite haunts. We take fur-lined
seats outside the Henrici bar (
cafe-henrici.ch
)
for a pint of
local beer from the Turbinen Bräu brewery – a great example
of Swiss enterprise. After the Hürlimann Brewery was bought
by beer giants Carlsberg in 2000 and stopped brewing in the
city, several local breweries popped up, giving the hop-loving
visitor the chance to sample various tasty ales.
It’s not uncommon to see groups sitting or standing
outside drinking all year round, bundled up in jackets and
furs. Wandering up to the cathedral, we find ourselves in a
sweet-smelling cloud of cinnamon and
Schweizerdeutsch
(
Swiss German), as a typical group is celebrating a university
graduation with
glühwein
(
mulled wine) and
küchen
(
cake).
It seems rude not to join in, and – even if we’re not strictly
invited – no one seems to mind.
Enthusiasm for the open air doesn’t stop with libation.
Outdoor activity – as with the running – is embraced in all
forms and not just in the summer months. Skiing, hiking,
snowshoeing and ice-skating are all hugely popular. So,
for an authentic taste of the latter, I eschew the tourist
trap of the central ‘winter wonderland’ and head up to
the
Kunsteisbahn
(
ice-skating rink;
doldersports.ch
)
in
suburban Dolder, a tram and cable-car ride away up the hills.
There’s not an expat or tourist in sight, just scarily adept
Swiss skaters carving up the ice. Wobbling on ankles rusty
from years of dry land, I reach for a handy stability aid – a
model of a polar bear with handles – which is doing the trick
nicely, until I realise the only other users are under-fives.
Cooling my blushes in the open air, I sit and watch the
confident Swiss curl across the ice, envying their grace, but
content to sit and watch, sipping sugary glühwein, as the
»
Fig 5
Enjoy the nightlife
A. Disco ball
B. Amboss beer and schnapps
C. Stuffed bird
D. Disused cable car
0 5 7
T H E C H A L L E N G E
Z U R I C H
