Beard to Tail
London
|
British/US
|
€30
GIVE OR TAKE A DISH OR TWO,
diners at
one of Shoreditch’s newest eateries
have a simple decision: pig or cow.
That’s because Beard to Tail is
unabashedly all about the meat.
Even the name is a play on the trend
for nose-to-tail eating, where no
part of the animal is left unused, so
the menu reads like a vegetarian’s
worst nightmare: bone marrow and
watercress, steak tartare, black
pudding and faggots.
It’s all unctuous and totally delicious.
The pig’s trotters stuffed with bacon
provide a delightful kick of meat
and herb; the BBQ ribs marinated in
bourbon are sticky, sweet and some of
the best we’ve tasted; while the braised
pork cheeks just melt.
With its industrial chic, exposed
brick décor, this is very much a
destination spot for trendy local
crowds and the superb, bourbon-
heavy cocktail list is as much a love
letter to Americana as the menu is.
In short, it’s all, ahem, ‘offally’ good.
77
Curtain Road, London, EC2; tel:
+44 (0)20 7729 2966, beardtotail.co.uk
Antinoo’s
Venice
|
Italian
|
From €70
DESPITE THE PRIME VIEWS
of the Grand Canal, it’s almost possible
to forget you’re in Venice at all once you’ve taken a seat in one
of Antinoo’s futuristic chairs. Cocooned by the calming white
minimalism of the dining room, abstract shapes on the walls and
cool floorboards under foot, you could be in a trendy London
eatery rather than one of Italy’s oldest cities.
That is, until you see the menu – which reminds you exactly where
you are. Some of these local specialities date back centuries, such as
the delicious
scampi in saor
(
scampi with caramelised onions) and the
hearty radicchio and bean soup, perfect for a winter evening.
It’s not all nods to the past, though. Chef Massimo Livan has
introduced a host of more modern combinations. Salmon and
strawberry, for instance, is a fresh and superbly balanced starter.
The restaurant is actually in one of the city’s newest – and
grandest – hotels, so this combination of old and new shouldn’t
surprise. Since opening three years ago, the Centurion Palace
has breathed fresh life into the traditional Venetian experience,
with its classic baroque exterior and modern style within.
You can’t visit Venice without sampling the fruits of the
ocean, and the sea bass with anchovy purée is a super example
of Antinoo’s philosophy, combining simple ingredients with a
pared-back presentation. And to finish? Tirimasù, of course. It
may have been deconstructed into its separate parts, but the
creamy flavour was one any Italian
nonna
(
grandmother) would
be proud of.
173
Dorsoduro, 30123; tel: +39 041 34281,
centurionpalacevenezia.com
R E S T A U R A N T
R E V I E W S
01
Pan-fried scallops with
fennel and orange salad
02
Tuna tartare with soy
03
The interior of Antinoo’s
03
01
02
WORDS
NICHOLAS KURS, SARAH WARWICK
1 1 0
V I E W P O I N T S
