T
he winter rains have come early to
Morocco, painting a layer of green
onto the red-sand cliffs that enclose
Oualidia’s lagoon. Every so often,
flashes of white appear behind the
clifftops – ocean waves that have
detonated against the cliffs. Spray
mists the air like smoke.
A heavy swell is pumping into
the north African coast. A few
hundred kilometres south, the point-breaks, where waves
hit a jut of land near Agadir, will be a scrum as surfers jostle
for position on the peak. Yet here I am with local surfer
Chouaib in a nearby lagoon, on a longboard amid mellow,
waist-high waves and not a soul around.
As the swell that thunders outside
gently pulses into the bay, Chouaib and I
take turns on a break, which unfurls lazily
right. Palm fronds wave in a light onshore
breeze. A stork circles the hilltop kasbah,
then settles onto a minaret. Strong
African sunshine; warm water; clean,
empty waves shared with a friend – it’s
the surfing dream.
According to Chouaib, this is nothing
new – it’s usually like this at this time of
year. Chances are, we’ll be alone again
tomorrow,
inshallah
(
God willing).
Morocco needs little introduction as a winter surf break.
Its coast is battered by everything the Atlantic can hurl, and
from October to March the swell from distant storms lights
up the points and reefs. Factor in warm air and sea, while
most of Europe is in deep freeze, and it’s no surprise that
surfers have migrated south for the colder months since
Morocco appeared on the hippy trail back in the 1970s.
Even if they now arrive by plane rather than battered
campervan, most make a beeline for Taghazoute, 20km north
of Agadir, where an alchemy of geology, coast angles and
prevailing swell direction generates flawless walls of waves. The
majority are unfamiliar with Oualidia, north of Essaouira, but
this beautiful resort could be Africa’s
best-kept boarding secret. Indeed, the
Australian pro-surfer Tom Carroll once
compared this stretch of coast to South
Africa’s legendary J-Bay and Kirra in
Australia. And when, in 2011, Kelly Slater
–
the most successful competitor in surfing
history – came to ride a wave near Safi
whose Arabic name translates as ‘Snake’, it
began to garner serious attention.
Actually, Moroccans and in-the-know
Europeans have been coming here for
decades. Mohammed V, grandfather of the current Moroccan
king, holidayed nearby in a waterfront palace (still guarded,
despite being in ruins). And, in recent years, it has even been
lauded as the Moroccan St Tropez.
Like its nickname-sake, the place is undeniably beautiful.
The tidal lagoon teems with colour; pink flamingos land here
in winter and spring. Stylish holiday villas have sprouted
among older, blue-shuttered houses behind the beach and at
La Sultana (
lasultanaoualidia.com
),
Oualidia’s newest and
most luxurious hotel, moneyed guests while away lazy days
between infinity pool, immaculately groomed sands,
delicious seafood and hammam spa.
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PHOTO
ALAMY
S U R F A R I
O U A L I D I A
