O N T H E G R O U N D
B A R C E L O N A
ILLUSTRATION
TANG YAU HOONG
WHENMORETHAN
a million people took to the streets of Barcelona
on Catalonia’s National Day last September to yell for the region’s
independence, it said a lot about how strongly people feel about
this issue. Since then, as a result of these peaceful protests,
Catalan politicians have started campaigning against the Spanish
government for a move towards political freedom for the region.
While I don’t want to dwell on the politics (which is a bit heavy
for what should be a relaxing flight), the debate does highlight
something fascinating about the Catalan region. It might be home
to Spain’s second city, but it’s not like the rest of Spain. It has its
own culture, traditions and language, which, to truly get to grips
with the place, visitors should know a little more about.
Barcelona is a shop-window city, advertising
many elements from elsewhere in Spain.
Southern traditions like flamenco, bull
fighting and
sevillanas
(
folk music from
Seville) are as alien to most of us Catalans as
yodelling. Instead, visitors should seek out
sardanas
(
local circle dances) and
castellers
(
human towers). Try going along to the
regular open rehearsals held by Castellers
de Sants (
borinots.cat
) –
and even joining in if you can.
Food-wise, forget – at least for a day – about Andalucian
tapas and try local dishes like
butifarra amb seques
(
sausages and
beans),
escalivada
(
grilled vegetables),
trinxat
(
potatoes, cabbage
and pork) or
calçots
(
a type of scallion). Try a legendary take on the
latter, grilled, at Can Martí (
canmarti.info
).
To understand more about the region’s contemporary
culture, see artwork by local emerging artists at Sala d’Art
Jove (
saladartjove.cat
),
or hear Catalan indie music in bars like
Heliògabal (
heliogabal.com
)
and Alfa Bar (
alfabar.cat
).
And, of
course, there’s the eternal football rivalry between Barça and
Madrid: a primitive mise-en-scène of the political and cultural war
of the regions.
If only this battle could stay on the football field.
And perhaps it will when Catalan culture obtains
acceptance within its own country.
“
Spain is different”, stated a tourism
slogan in the 1960s – to which I respond,
“
and so is Catalonia”.
Marta Puigdemasa is a blogger and founder
of PERDIZ Magazine (perdizmagazine.com)
Homage to Catalonia
The region around Barcelona is nothing like the rest of Spain, says
Marta
Puigdemasa
.
What makes it so unique? Our guest columnist makes her case
Catalonia has
its own culture,
traditions and language,
which all visitors should know
a little more about
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