there’s no doubt that
preparing the big
festive feast is one hell of an undertaking.
That’s the reason most people only ever
attempt it once a year – and even then
only with a steady flow of alcohol.
So spare a thought for me. This year I will have
cooked three Christmas dinners by the time we sit
down for roast turkey on the 25th. I’m not some kind of
Christmas obsessive – two of themwere created in the
flaming glare of London’s July heatwave, in a sweltering
flat, for a food catalogue photoshoot – and the only
booze-soaked thing about the experience was the
sherry-berry trifle I made.
While having to wake up at 6am to bake spiced
clementine Christmas tarts (it was the only time of
day cool enough for pastry work) wasn’t exactly a
breeze, the whole experience taught me something
valuable – the Christmas meal isn’t as
frightening as we’re led to believe, regardless
of whether it’s roast duck and apples, as is
the norm in Denmark, or a Galician
seafood banquet.
The most important thing is making an
easy-to-follow plan. Working backwards
from the time you want to serve the meal, figure out
what needs to be cooked when and write a checklist.
“I never rush,” agrees chef Paul Cunningham, of Henne
Kirkeby Kro, in Henne, Denmark. “I pour a little wine,
switch on the radio and give myself time.” He also
recommends going the extra mile by making your own
stuffing. “Mine is based on finely chopped pork belly and
veal mince with just as much fresh breadcrumbs, a really
good splash of milk and a few eggs. Flavour with sautéed
onions, sage, parsley and chopped apricots, and season.
Wrap it in a blanket of smoked bacon and bake gently in
foil. The process is long, but the result is magical.”
When it comes to avoiding stress, chef Jeff Galvin, of
London’s Michelin-starred La Chapelle restaurant, has an
unexpected solution: he uses a microwave. “I prep all of my
vegetable dishes before we eat, cool them quickly, place
them in the bowls I’m serving them in and cover with
Clingfilm. Then, when I’m serving, I simply reheat.”
And my final tip? Enlist the help of those
you’re cooking for. That way, you can
enjoy a drink together in the kitchen.
After all, Christmas should be about
spending time with the ones you love
– even if you’re all peeling potatoes.
“My secret recipe? Just be merry”
With a bit of planning and a lot of booze, you can take all the stress
out of your Christmas meal, says
Rosie Birkett
A L O T O N H E R
P L A T E
ILLUSTRATION
DALE EDWIN MURRAY
Enlist the
help of those you’re
cooking for. That
way, you can all enjoy
a drink in the kitchen
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V I E W P O I N T S
