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TRAVELLER
cooking is anart and it doesn’t have tobe fancy tobegood.
Years ago, anuptown restaurant calledViaVenetohada
signaturedishmadewitheggs and
angulas
[baby eels]. It
waswonderful, but very expensive, so I beganplayingwith
alternatives. I foundeggs fried ingoodoliveoil workedvery
well with
chanquetes
[a tinyfish] and
chipirones
[baby squid].
I’venowgot about 50dishes on themenu, but it’s still the eggs –
which today include ingredients likeprawns, wildmushrooms,
foiegras andcaviar – that are themost successful.”
BARCELONA
THE TAPAS KING
QuimMárquez Durán
If youwant toknowwhere toeat inBarcelona, ask someone
whoworks in theBoqueria foodmarket. And theydon't
comemore knowledgable thanQuimDurán, owner-chef
of ElQuimde laBoqueria (
Stall 584, BoqueriaMarket;
elquimdelaboqueria.com
). He’s beenhere for 25 years,
achievingnear-legendary status for his playful takeon tapas.
“Moneywas tight growingup,” he remembers, “butmy
mother alwaysmanaged tomake amazing foodwithcheap
ingredients. I thought shewas agenius. Itmademe realise