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EAT
FARO
MEDITERRANEAN
¤80
With palm trees swaying softly in
the Atlantic breeze and a waft of
the seductive scent of jasmine,
lunch on Vila Joya’s terrace should
be an entirely soporific experience.
That it is anything but is down to
chef Dieter Koschina: as soon as his
first plates arrive, it’s impossible not
to wake up with a jolt. The beet
macaron with smoked eel is a
particular delight; crunchy and sweet
yet delicately fishy, it’s one of many
amuse-bouches that keep coming.
That’s not to say that a meal in
what is one of the Algarve’s top
boutique hotels isn’t a thoroughly
relaxing experience. Cocooned
by landscaped gardens, and with
staff who understand the art of
attending without hovering, it’s
easy to slip into a delightful reverie.
German-born Koschina has
held two Michelin stars for 13 years
and there are no faddy techniques
here – just classic cooking. Meaty
turbot has never been so delicately
executed, while sweet Atlantic
lobster and cauliflower purée
perfectly complement salty caviar.
And did we mention the view?
Estrada da Galé, 8201-917 Albufeira;
tel: +351 289 591795; vilajoya.com
AMSTERDAM
DUTCH
FROM ¤30
If the buzz surrounding this new rotisserie joint in the Oost district
is anything to go by, there’ll soon be copycats springing up all
over. Though based in a former cookery school, Rijsel isn’t about
recreating the stodge that was once produced here – instead,
virtually everything at this razor-sharp hangout bursts with
tang and zest. Its skewered golden poussins are the juiciest
in town, served alongside a heap of green leaves and roast
potatoes that remind you why God invented carbs. After
indulging, you might want to avert your eyes as you pass the
giant weighing scales placed – surely mockingly – by the exit.
52b Marcusstraat; tel: +31 (0)20 463 2142; rijsel.com
The beetmacaronwith smoked eel is a particular delight
WORDS SIMON KURS, MARK SMITH
Rijsel
Vila Joya
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