WORDS & STYLING TALIB CHOUDHRY. PHOTOGRAPHY VICTORIA LING. WATERCOLOUR ILLUSTRATION TEGAN WILLIAMS. PERFECT TABLEMAT AND MAP TEA TOWEL RANA SALAM FROM MISHMAOUL.COM
Fine fragrance
Perfumes with a much higher
content of fragrant oils (and
therefore longer lasting) than
those sold in the West are
worth snapping up in Amman.
True, Arabic fragrances tend
to be headier than European
varieties, but there are some
gems. Want to try before you
fly? Perfume Calligraphy by
Aramis is an exquisitely rich,
unisex fragrance redolent
of cardamom, saffron, rose,
musk and oud, it smells as
precious as its packaging
looks. (£110 [€138] for 100ml
EDP; harrods.com).
Ready to eat
Thanks to an influx of wealthy immigrants
from Iraq and other Persian Gulf countries,
the city’s culinary scene has expanded from
its famous falafel joints (though, the best of
these remain) to embrace a host of swanky
Asian, French and Italian restaurants. But
for authentic local fare, head to Al Quds (Al-
Malek al-Hussein Street), where the house
speciality – and Jordan's national dish – is
mansaf, a lamb shank served on yellow rice
with chopped almonds and warm yogurt
sauce. Of course, you’ll also find platters
of artfully stacked pastries, ready to be
washed down with sweet tea.
Treasure hunting
Over the millennia, Amman has been inhabited by
Assyrians, Nabataeans, Romans and Ottomans. The
Archaeological Museum on Citadel Hill is like something
out of Indiana Jones, with handwritten labels and dusty
display cabinets. For modern treasures, browse the Gold
Souk before ending the day with drinks and stunning
views on the terrace at Cantaloupe (cantaloupe.jo). It’s
number 10 on Rainbow Street, the nexus of cool, where
galleries and cafés draws a hip crowd.
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