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TRAVELLER
J
is for jalebi
In Indian culture, sweets are part
of all celebrations, but
jalebis
– pretzel-shaped coils of batter
deep-fried and dipped in syrup – are
the real taste of childhood. Sold hot
from the pan at stalls like Jalebi
Junction (
93 Southall Broadway
)
in west London, and with the syrup
sticking to the bag they’re served in,
they’ll take you back to watching the
saris swirl at a Delhi wedding, even if
you’ve never been east of Vienna.
L
is for lángos
Back when families baked their own
bread in Hungary, a little piece of the
dough was snipped from the end to
make a snack. Today, the recipe for
lángos has been embellished: it’s now
a golden disk of fried potato dough
topped with garlic, sour cream or
grated cheese (or all three). For many,
no shopping trip is complete without
a taste and Budapest’s best can be
found for about a euro at Bosnyák tér,
a neighbourhood market.
M
is for meatballs
Sweden’s street-food staple,
köttbullar
(meatballs), are enjoying
a renaissance. At Stockholm’s Sibylla
kiosks and Malmö’s Möllevångstorget
area, locals devour beef versions
with gusto, while restaurants like
Tranan (
tranan.se
) serve them in
the bar. They’ve also gone upmarket
at Prinsen (
restaurangprinsen.eu
)
and there’s even a posh veal version
at Michelin-starred Matsalen in the
Grand Hotel (
grandhotel.se
).
K
is for Kristin
Frederick
Given Parisians’ distaste for all
foods fast, the city’s itinerant burger
queen must be doing something
extraordinarily right. Loyal French
followers brave long lines for her €10
gourmet burger/frites fix, especially
the juicy BBQ patties with onion
rings and homemade sauce. “It’s
a novelty for French taste buds,”
explains Frederick, an American
ex-pat whose “a-ha” moment
(“upscale food trucks are the
future”) came while working at a
two-star restaurant in her native
LA. Last November she imported
the concept to Paris, where her van
moves around daily. Her website
reveals where.
lecamionquifume.com
European street
food has its roots
in cheap, filling
fare for labourers
and peasants
Kristen Frederick,
below on right,
brought her upscale
burgers to Paris