Basic HTML Version
R O S I E B I R K E T T
M I K E P I N C
THE
SECRET
NORT
THANKS TO A WEALTH OF PASSIONATE PRODUCERS AND REVOLUTIONA
RESTAURATEURS, THE NORTH OF ENGLAND IS IN THE MIDST OF A CULINA
EXPLOSION. WE WENT ON A ROAD TRIP TO SAMPLE THINGS FIRST-HAN
A DARK MACARON
of squid ink is placed before
me. It’s followed by an immaculate plate of silky,
almost translucent, raw scallops and toasted seeds,
topped with a snowdrift of smoked scallop powder.
The sommelier fills our glasses with buttery white
Burgundy before laying down freshly baked bread
and whipped, creamy, local butter. All the hallmar
of a Michelin-starred restaurant are here – deft
service, fine wines, exciting cooking and a sense of
occasion. The only surprise is, we’re nowhere near a
of Europe’s gastronomic capitals. In fact, I’m enjoyi
this fine-dining experience in far-flung Cumbria.
I’m in L’Enclume (
lenclume.co.uk
), the restauran
Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan in the mediev
village of Cartmel. While this may be in one of
England’s most remote counties – an hour and a h
drive north of Manchester – it hasn’t prevented Ro
from winning international acclaim for his technic
brilliant, inherently Cumbrian cuisine.
When people talk of the UK’s foodie scene, they’r
often referring to London, but a quiet culinary
renaissance has also been taking place in the north
counties of Cumbria, Lancashire and North Yorks
Driven by fabulous local produce – from ice cream
to livestock, wonderful cheeses to award-winning
preserves, as well as a grandstanding band of top
Main picture,
the d
served at L’Enclu
the Lake District h
helped put northe
England on the foo
map; l
eft,
on the ro
to Clitheroe
056-061_ej_TheSecretNorth lg.indd 57
08/0