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easyJet
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Reykjavik from London. See our insider guide on
page 170. Book online at easyJet.com
holiday brochures call it a “land of fire and ice”, but
even this spiel doesn’t really prepare you for the reality
of life in this place of extremes. For instance, on the
one hand, it’s remarkably forward thinking – all
electricity produced on the island comes from either
hydropower or geothermal plants that tap into the
same underground activity that cause geysers and
volcanoes to erupt regularly. The locals also make
use of these fields in another, even more civilised way,
heading to naturally heated lakes that exist across
the country’s expanse to bathe and unwind. The
best-known of these outdoor pools is the Blue Lagoon
(
www.bluelagoon.com
), on the outskirts of Reykjavik,
whose waters can reach temperatures of upto 39°C.
Yet this is also a nation steeped in tradition. Indeed,
outside of Reykjavik, the island is much the same
as it was when the first settlers arrived more than a
millennium ago. As Ragnar later tells me, “The rugged
landscape reminds us every day that we are Vikings
and that’s why Icelandic people are truly adventurous.”
That’s probably the reason why Icelanders take such
pride in their seafaring forebears – celebrating the
derring-do of their forbears as well as their somewhat
adventurous diets. In the winter months, Icelanders
pay homage to their heritage by eating traditional
Viking foods such as dried fish; a fermented, rotted
shark dish called
hákarl
(see Reykjavik Basics on p60
for more about this) and sheep’s head.
“You could say that Icelandic food is old-fashioned
in many ways,” says Jon Tryggvi Jonsson, owner of
Lækjarbrekka (
laekjarbrekka.is
), one of Reykjavik’s
oldest (and certainly cosiest) restaurants. “Food has
always been important to Icelandic culture because
it brings people together – and that’s important in a
place that has, traditionally, been so isolated.”
Food is certainly part of that overriding ethos
of hospitality that informs much of the Icelandic
way of life. Conclusive proof of this can be seen at
Lækjarbrekka, where groups of families and friend
sprawl across tables, tucking into smoked puffin,
Icelandic lamb (which Jonsson claims is the best in
world), reindeer meatballs or one of the many varie
of pickled herring, the conversation flowing as freel
the Brennivin (a fiery local brandy).
Lying just south of the Arctic Circle, the island
be bathed in snow and zero-hugging temperatures
from November to the beginning of April, but the
summer climate is a comfortable 12-14°C, thanks
to the warming effects of the Gulf Stream. That’s
probably the reason why more than 90% of Iceland
tourists visit during the warmer months – when th
sun shines well into the night, and people take to t
countryside to play midnight golf or go horse trekk
on Iceland’s beautiful indigenous steeds.
If you go right now, however, there are other, equ
visceral thrills. This year in particular, the norther
lights (or aurora borealis, to give the proper name)
going to be at their brightest for 50 years, providin
a mind-blowing, bright-green light show that danc
across the skies. You’ll have to be quick though, as
they’re most visible between November and April.
If you do miss out on the lights, don’t worry – th
are plenty of other opportunities for beauty, wonde
and adventure. “It’s very important to try everythin
says Ragnar, as he issues a final invitation. “See
geysers, waterfalls and volcanoes, try our local food
and remember, the elves are there during the day, t
trolls are there in the night. You just need to believe
Above,
the Blue Lagoon,
with average temperatures
of 37-39°C;
right,
the
Icelandic horse is very
hardy and has a double
coat for extra insulation
“We are Vikings and that’s why the Icelandic
people are truly adventurous”
PHOTO © GISIL DÚA/NORDIC PHOTOS
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