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TRAVELLER
UP AND
COMING
LE PANIER
MARSEILLE
Long left
dilapidated,
Marseille’s
oldest andm
atmospheric quarter is morphing
into a fashionable bohemian
neighbourhood, where traditional
taverns sit alongside innovative a
spaces, such as Vidéochroniques
(
videochroniques.org
).
PODGÓRZ
KRAKOW
Across the ri
from central
Krakow, the
once desolat
Podgórze has been rejuvenated b
the young and fashionable, seen
hanging out at the Mostowy Art C
(
8 Ulica Mostowa
) or the Drukarni
jazz bar (
1 Nadwislanska
), a hip
drinking hole andmusic venue.
TRIBALL
MADRID
Regeneratio
has turned t
rundown bar
into a haven
for the city’s edgiest artists and
fashion designers. In a typical sto
La Maison de la Lanterne Rouge
(
lamaison.es
) is a former brothel
turned funky clothes shop, theatr
space, gallery and bar.
Visit these secret arty
districts before everyo
else discovers them
an opportunity to discover a creative
scene in the raw.
Aside from the art, the area’s cutting-
edge credentials are further asserted
by the presence of a number of indie
fashion houses. In fact, some of Israel’s
hottest labels can be found behind
unostentatious storefronts, such as the
colourful idiosyncratic prints at Frau
Blau (
fraublau.com
) or the clean retro
creations at Delicatessen (
4 Barzilay
Street
). Check out the fashionistas in
innovative couture mingling with artists
in paint-splattered jeans at cafés such
as LovEAT (
1 Barzilai Street
) or Aba Gil’s
Organic Hummus (
55Yehuda Halevi
).
Any day in Gan Hahashmal should end
in Levontin 7 (
levontin7.com
), a basement
nightclub with an astonishingly eclectic
programme that ranges from accordion
festivals all the way to acclaimed
grunge rockers The Melvins. Daniel
Sarid, the club’s artistic director, was
an early pioneer who saw, he says, the
neighbourhood’s “enormous potential to
become Tel Aviv’s next hotspot”.
Like most down-at-heel
neighbourhoods transformed by
creatives, Gan Hahashmal will one
day face the familiar question of
gentrification: can it retain its arty edge
as property values soar? “The scene is
thriving,”Daniel Sarid says, “but I hope
the area can keep its alternative vibe.”No
one can know the future, but for now at
least, Gan Hahashmal is at the creative
vanguard of a city magnificently coming
into its own.
ArtWeekend Tel Aviv is taking place on
21-24 March.
tel-aviv.gov.il
The idea behind
Frau Blau’s
clothing is
quality with a
humorous twist
Hanina
Contemporary
Art is run by an
artists’ collective
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