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MARRAKECH
waiting for us. The site where Aisha and her family had
intended to spend the summer grazing their goats, sheep,
donkeys, mules and camels is a dust bowl.
A local shepherd says that, at this time of year, much of
the plateau should be a shallow lake: certainly as far as the
eye can see, but the lack of winter rain and snowmeans it
isn’t here. After six days’ tough travel, with barely an hour’s
sleep per night, there is nowhere for Aisha to water her flock.
It feels ominous – and not just at this moment. There is a
sense in the air that a noble civilisation is breathing its last.
A recentWorld Bank report says that by 2050, rainfall in
Moroccomay be reduced by 20%, with a 40% drop possible
by 2080. The Berber people are tough and resourceful, but
there’s not much you can do in the face of a lack of grass and
water if you get your livelihood fromherding.
Aisha knows that the game is up. “We are walking in
a dry land,” she had said tome when we spoke a few days
earlier, smoke from the fire billowing round her. “In the past,
there was lots of rain to help the grass grow. Now there is
nothing. In the past, people were patient. Now, it’s easy to
give up. In the past, everyone was a nomad, but not now.”
Talking to the younger members of the tribe is
enlightening. One of Aisha’s sons, Said (15), says he wants
to become a farmer; her niece, Izza (25) longs tomarry as
a route out of nomadism. Only her eldest son, Mohamad
(32), says that he’ll carry on until it isn’t humanly possible
to continue: “I love this life,” he says. “I won’t give up until
I’mexhausted.When I finally settle in a village, it will be
because it’s no longer possible to live like this.When I stop, I’ll
knowwhy I had to give up.” For themoment though, the talk
of giving up is put to the side. Theymay have already been
travelling for six days, but Aisha and her family have tomove
on in search of better pasture.
The next day, we pass themand see, deep in the valley, a
river and greenmountainsides. Sheep and goats are already
ambling down themountainside, grazing gently. Soon,
Aisha’s flock will join them. For another year, this nomad
has found somewhere to call home for the summer months.
There is no doubt, however, that it will be one of the last.
Hazel travelledwithOn theGoTours (
onthegotours.com
).
The next trip is in September and costs £799 per person,
includingmost meals
Above,
Said, 15, throws stones
to herd the goats during their
migration
; this picture,
nomads
living in a cave en route
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