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EAT
LONDON
MEDITERRANEAN
¤40
If ever there was a restaurant
tailormade for sharing, then this is
it. Indeed, it would be practically
criminal if you didn’t try as much
of Nopi’s colourful Mediterranean
menu as possible. Highlights on our
visit included a deliciously light red
quinoa and watercress salad, smoky
roasted aubergine with black garlic,
and tempura courgette flowers
with divinely creamy goats’ cheese
inside. Frankly, though, everything
on offer there is a winner.
If the success of his delis originally
made his name, then Yotam
Ottolenghi’s first full-on restaurant,
opened last year in Soho, properly
established the Israeli chef as a key
player on London’s foodie scene.
Its cool, marble-and-brass interior
is politely subdued, allowing the
flavours of the food to really sing.
This is a philosophy that extends all
the way to the desserts, including
a delightful strawberry mess with
pomegranate seeds – a fruit the
chef refers to as “noisy”. A fitting
end to a meal at a place that diners
will be making noise about for
some time to come.
21-22 Warwick Street; tel: +44 (0)20
7494 9584, nopi-restaurant.com
THESSALONIKI
GREEK
FROM ¤35
Attached to the Ekies All Senses eco-resort, Koutali has the
same laid-back luxury vibe that informs the hotel and its spa.
From the lightest of lunches – gently griddled squid stuffed
with bulgar wheat – to more complex evening meals – try the
Easter risotto with rich, unctuous lamb shank, enthused by
rosemary and dripping off the bone – chef Andreas Volgaris
mixes sophisticated flavours into traditional Greek dishes.
Now in his third summer here, Volgaris has introduced private
dining in a treehouse and a barbecue on which to showcase
his locally sourced meat and fish.
Ekies All Senses Resort,
Sithonia, Halkidiki, Vourvourou; tel: +30 2375 091 000, ekies.gr
Yotam
Ottolenghi’s
Soho
restaurant
is a cool
haven of
marble
and brass
The cool interior allows the flavours of the food to really sing
WORDS AMY DENNIS, SARAH WARWICK
Koutali
Nopi
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