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TRAVELLER
JANUARY 2012
*YOUR FREE COPY TO
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU
Brrr… we go winter swimming in Slovenia
Valencia vs Alicante: the great paella war
Take a digital detox on Osea Island
A rooftop tour of Milan
2012’s new must-visit destinations
SWISS
DREAM
Hit the slopes in stylewith
our insider guide to this
season’s hottest ski trends
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Bari
Italy
DIALLING CODE
+39
CURRENCY
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
Pre-bookyour taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
Route 16 goes
to the centre.
Tickets: €0.77.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Terranima
(213–215
Putignani, tel: 080
521 9725) This place
looks like it has been
here for centuries
and the owners
certainly know their
trade. The food
is wonderful and
menus change daily.
A proper Pugliese
experience to savour.
EXCLUSIVE
Tenuta Pinto
Country House
(13
Via Chiancarelle, tel:
340 707 9205) Set in
luscious countryside
near the coast,
this is an excellent,
family-run restaurant.
Most of the menu is
grown in the gardens,
where the quality
Basel
/
Mulhouse
/
Freiburg
Switzerland
5181) This Palestinian
place, across from the
Stadtcasino, outshines
all the other Middle
Eastern restaurants on
the same street. Don’t
miss the terrifically
tasty
baba ghanoush
(aubergine dip).
UP TO €30
Restaurant Bartholdi
(2Rue desBoulangers,
Colmar, tel: 038941
0774) GrandAlsatian
cooking in a not-overly-
pricey restaurant on
themain thoroughfare
of Colmar’sOldTown.
Try themussels or
veau
sauté aumadre
(veal).
UP TO €50
Chez Donati
(48 St
Johanns-Vorstadt,
Basel, tel: 061 322
0919) Piedmont’s
representative in
Basel for more than
half a century, Donati
serves excellent Italian
food, from simple
pastas to the veal fillet
“Mary Stuart”.
EXCLUSIVE
La Maison des Têtes
(19Rue desTêtes,
DIALLING CODE
+41
CURRENCY
CHF
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam,Barcelona,
Berlin,Bordeaux,
Cagliari,Copenhagen,
Corsica (Ajaccio),
Dresden,Düsseldorf,
Edinburgh, Faro,
Fuerteventura,Gran
Canaria,Hamburg,
Ibiza, Istanbul, Lisbon,
London (LGW),
Madrid,Majorca,
Málaga,Marrakech,
Nantes,Naples,Nice,
Olbia,Rome,Porto,
Pristina,Split,TelAviv,
Tenerife,Thessaloniki,
Toulouse,Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
Pre-bookyour taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
CHF40 to Basel and
Mulhouse €40.
Route 50 takes
you to Basel’s
main train station.
Tickets: CHF3.80.
Shuttles go to
the station in
Saint-Louis for trains to
Mulhouse.Tickets: €1.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Damas
Café
(23 Steinenberg,
Basel, tel: 06 1281
TAXI
of fruit and veg is
second to none. The
simple mozzarella
and pomegranate
antipasti is exquisite.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Greta
(21 Via Venezia,
Muraglia, tel: 080
524 8616) A trendy
little spot that’s
always buzzing. Good
for a mid-evening
pausa
before
livening things up
a little bit.
LATE & LIVELY
Gorgeous
(82 Via
delle Constituente,
tel: 080 542 3399)
The only club to go
to in the winter
months. A great
atmosphere
combined with a
good food and drinks
menu. Check to
see what’s on
as entertainment
and music can
vary considerably.
THIS MONTH
GO
The Palazoo Simi,
built on the ruins of a
ninth-century church
(which you can see
in the basement),
gives an insightful
but basic idea of
Bari’s early history
and how the city
grew to be what it now
is. Small but
very interesting.
NOWAY!
The large grid-
shaped Murat city
centre of Bari was not
long ago said to be
the largest shopping
centre in Italy.
Max Keep
Colmar, tel: 03 8924
4343)This elegant
restaurant, housed
in a spectacular
17th-century house,
is one of Colmar’s
finest, servingAlsatian
specialities such as
homemade foie gras
and roasted duck.
Find it next to the
UnterlindenMuseum,
which isworth popping
into first towork up
a bit of an appetite.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Café
Leffe
(17 Rue
Henriette, Mulhouse,
tel: 03 8945 2874)
Serving the famous
monastery-brewed
beer that’s now served
all over Europe, this
is a great place to
stop for a pick-me-
up and a snack.
LIVE MUSIC
Jet7 Bar
(2 Bis
Passage au Hôtel
deVille, Mulhouse,
tel: 03 8956 0421)
Mulhouse’s best
shot at an alternative
music scene, Jet7
hosts bands a couple
of nights a week.
LATE & LIVELY
Kuppel
(14
Binnigerstrasse,
Basel, tel: 061 283
0070) Kuppel is finally
ditching its reputation
as a teenie hangout,
with Fridays now
for ages 25 and up.
Themusic is mostly
house DJs with the
occasional indie
band playing live.
THIS MONTH
SEE
Painting on
Paper – Josef Albers in
America
at the Basel
Museumof FineArt
offers 70 coloured
works on paper by
the German-born
American artist,
whose works
influenced howmany
of us learned about
art and colour while
at school in the
21st century.
GO
FrédéricAuguste
Bartholdi, who
designed the Statue
of Liberty in NewYork,
was born in Colmar.
Visit the Musée
Bartholdi to learn
about the background
of the iconic statue
and theman who
brought it to life (30
Rue des Marchands).
ESCAPE
Tobogganing is
still ameans of
transportation in some
mountain villages. If
you’d like to give it a
try, ride the cable car
up toWasserfallen
fromReigoldswil,
10kmsoutheast of
Basel. Rent a sled at
the top, then enjoy
the terrifying 4km
descent. Be sure
to confirmsnow
conditions in advance
(wasserfallenbahn.ch).
NOWAY!
Like it raw?Arecently
published book reports
that 80%of Swiss
cheeses aremade
fromunpasteursed
milk, comparedwith
just 20% in France,
whose cheeses are
certainly just as
stinky but (perhaps)
not as rich.
Richard Harvell
SHOP
Don’t miss
the books on sale
at Bider andTanner.
Quirky literature
includes the detail of
makingmore than
25 kinds of cheese
(2Aeschenvorstadt,
Basel).
BIDER AND
TANNER BOOKS
TAXI
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