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TRAVELLER
NIALL MCKENNA GREW
accustomed to cooking with
fabulous ingredients during a 14-year stint working for
some of London’s best chefs, including Marco Pierre
White and Gary Rhodes. But when he came home to
set up his restaurant, James Street South, in 2003,
even he was surprised by the quality of what was on
his doorstep.
“The produce is unbelievable – better than I’ve had
anywhere else. Whether its four legs or two, or growing
in the ground, there isn’t a bad season in Northern
Ireland,” he says. “Then there’s the seafood: oysters,
lobster, turbot, salmon – you name it, it’s coming
out of Irish waters.” This zeal for local, seasonal
ingredients has prompted McKenna and wife, Joanne,
to open The Bar + Grill next door to James Street
South. Taking inspiration from New York steakhouses,
the establishment includes a cookery school and acts
as a showcase for the region’s farmers and fishermen.
Flying the food flag for Northern Ireland isn’t a
new thing for McKenna. His poached rhubarb with
strawberry jelly and lavender ice cream won the dessert
stage of The Great British Menu – a competition
among the UK’s best chefs – in 2010 and was served
at a banquet attended by Prince Charles. It’s still a
popular choice in the restaurant,
but don’t expect to
order it now: if it’s not in season, it’s not on the menu.
James Street South, 21 James Street South, Belfast;
tel: +44 (0)28 9043 4310, jamesstreetsouth.co.uk
THE TOP CHEF
Niall McKenna, James Street South
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