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As well as pools
and waterslides,
there’s a salt
cave, hot
sulphur springs,
and aqua fitness
training
24
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TRAVELLER
MUNICH
Under an artificial sky, not far
fromMunich’s hectic streets, lies an Eden
where locals come to wash and wallow.
Warmhealing waters filter through a
dozen indoor pools, while labyrinthine
side passages lead off to saunas the size
of amphitheatres, and antechambers
with high-techmassage loungers.
Around a huge tropical paradise,
palm trees waft their fronds over lines
of nude Germans, who grill like white
wurst
under UV sun-lamps, while in the
Roman-themed baths, complete with
mosaics and Doric columns, guests soak
inmineral-rich waters.
This is Therme Erding: state-of the-art
mega-spa and Europe’s largest. Built
over a giant network of springs, the spa’s
thermal waters were found by happy
accident in 1983, when US oil firm
Texaco came to the small hill town of
Erding, 40kmnorth of Munich, to drill
for fossil fuels. The oil company’s loss
was Bavaria’s gain, however, as the
multi-faceted leisure complex built on
the site is now as big as anAmerican
shopping mall andmuchmore fun.
Unlike the health resorts of Bavaria,
such as Bad Reichenhall, that found
favour with high-society in the 19th-
century, this watery playground has
amusements to suit all energy levels. For
families, there’s Galaxy, a theme-park
zone that added 10 newwaterslides last
year (for a total of 2kmof chutes), which
can send guests plunging into water at
speeds of up to 70km/h.
Adults might prefer the vast thermal
spa, VitalityOasis, where clothes are
verboten
and swim-up bars serve local
Erdinger lager to laid-back nudies. All
shapes and sizes are on display, and
there’s not a hint of exhibitionism either.
It’s as if patrons have simply forgotten to
pack their Speedos for a day at the pool.
Like many thermal spas in Germany,
Therme Erding is half indoors, half
alfresco. For what must rank among
the healthiest pursuits in Bavaria, jog
into the chill winter air, then shriek as
the icy plunge pool shrink-wraps every
extremity, before diving headlong into the
steamy 34°C thermal waters. Bath time
never felt this good.
Entry costs from€14 for two hours.
Therme Erding, Thermenallee 2, Erding,
near Munich; tel: +49 (0)8122 227 0200,
therme-erding.de
Hot Springs Eternal
Chilly winter’s day in Bavaria? We headed for Therme
Erding – the biggest spa in Europe – to sample an indoor
world of watery excitements sure to warm things up
Clothes are
verboten and
swim-up bars
serve lager
WORDS TRISTAN RUTHERFORD | PHOTO © HARROGATE BOROUGH COUNCIL
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