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TRAVELLER
VIEWPOINTS
EAT
PARIS
FRENCH
FROM ¤30
A French hot dog?
Quelle horreur!
,
you may think. But this is the
signature dish of Le Meurice’s
three-star chef Yannick Alléno’s
latest, thought-provoking eaterie
on the Sorbonne’s Left Bank, within
the art deco Maison de la Mutalitié.
The dog in question is made
Gallic-style, with
tête de veau
(calf’s
head): its texture soft, distinctly
gelatinous, yet it is extremely tasty.
Lke much on the menu here, most
of the ingredients are sourced from
around the capital. Poster-boy
Alléno confesses: “I’m obsessed
with revising forgotten Parisien
recipes.” He does this with great
panache. Try the deeply savoury,
well-gratinated Les Halles French
onion soup, accompanied by a
well-seasoned pâte Patin: veal and
pork en croute; and a definitive
navarin
(stew) of lamb.
Next time, I hope to manage
more than a mere nibble of
niflette
,
a brûlée flaky pastry dessert. This
time, I was simply too full.
Maison de la Mutalitié, 24 Rue Saint
Victor; tel: +33 (0)1443 15454
TENERIFE
CANARIAN
FROM ¤50
Traditional Island cuisine is getting an innovative and avant-
garde makeover, thanks to the runner-up in Spain’s prestigious
Chef of the Year 2012 competition, Juan Carlos Padrón.
Choose from the à la carte selection or let the chef guide
you through his executive tasting menu. Besides course after
course of succulent fish, gourmet treats include an intensely
rich mushroom cappuccino; buttery parmesan ravioli on
a lentil reduction; and a decadent dessert of passion fruit
parfait with cardamon ice cream and orange blossom foam.
2 Pasaje de Jacaranda, Los Gigantes; tel: +34 922 868040,
elrincondejuancarlos.es
I’mobsessedwith revising forgottenParisien recipes”
WORDS SUDI PIGOTT, ANDREA MONTGOMERY
El Rincón de JuanCarlos
Terroirs Parisien
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