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THE BUZZ
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TASTE BUDS
40
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TRAVELLER
Armani/
Ristorante
MILAN
Given his background, it’s no surprise
that Giorgio Armani’s latest Milan
venture is a byword for opulence and
elegance. Housed in the two-story
glass cube topping the Armani Hotel
in Milan, its interiors were designed by
the fashion icon himself and only his
favourite dishes are on the menu. So it’s
also no surprise that, since its opening
in November 2011, the restaurant’s
chic but relaxed atmosphere has been
attracting a seriously stylish crowd.
Typically, the evening starts in the
adjoining Bamboo Bar with a cocktail,
such as the Bamboo Bloody Mary,
which adds bamboo juice, wasabi and
sake to the original recipe, then moves
to the dining room for Italian dishes.
Highlights of the menu include
braised veal cheek with horseradish
Bullerei
HAMBURG
There’s surely no better place for a
meat restaurant than a converted
19th-century livestock station. At least,
that’s the reasoning behind this
fleisch
-
friendly brasserie in Hamburg’s trendy
Schanzenviertel district, which is now
firmly established as one of the city’s
most popular hangouts.
A large portion (there are no others
here) of the restaurant’s success must
be laid on the plate of part-owner Tim
Mältzer, whose success as a TV chef in
Germany led him to found this meat-
lovers’ joint. Despite having studied in
the Michelin-recognised kitchens of
Christian Rach, Mältzer has created
something eminently more casual here.
Everything is pared back, from the
brickwork décor to the no-nonsense
grill menu, where there’s a choice of
meat, side and sauce with zero added
faff. This no-frills approach leaves the
crust, and egg ravioli with porcini
mushrooms, while the dessert list also
offers style and substance – the hot
chocolate soufflé with ginger ice cream
and mango purée was particularly good.
Small groups of up to five can even
book the chef ’s table, which is placed
inside the kitchen. Like a backstage
emphasis just where it should be – on
the outstanding cuts of meat, griddled
to succulent perfection.
With no ceremony to stand on, diners
can concentrate on socialising, aided by
local beer and staff so friendly it’s hard
to resist asking them to join you. Add
to this an unexpected bevy of desserts
– house-made ice creams, cakes, sweets
and chocolates, plus divine vanilla crème
brûlée with pistachio brioche – and you’ll
leave contented, maybe even mooing.
A two-course meal costs around
€35 per person. 34b Lagerstrasse;
tel: +49 40 3344 2110, bullerei.com
SarahWarwick
party at fashion week, it’s already one
of the hottest tickets in town – perfect
for those wanting to feed off the rarefied
buzz of the kitchen.
A three-course meal costs around €50
per person. 31 Via Manzoni; tel: +39
02 8883 8888, milan.armanihotels.com
Scott Adams