ancouver Island is wild
country. This vast,
12,000-plus-mile-squared
landmass containsmountain
ranges to rival the Rockies,
as well as alpine lakes, glacial
ice fields, and ancient cedar
and hemlock forests. Over
on the island’s west coast,
beside the Bedwell River,
ClayoquotWilderness Resort
celebrates this nativewilder-
ness while bringing a level
of luxury fewwould expect
from a former mining locale.
ManagingdirectorJohnCatondidn’t
intend toproduceExhibitA for theglobal
“glamping”phenomenonwhenhecreated
thissanctuary,buthehadahunch that
guestswouldconnectwith thenotion that
youcanhave itall: aremotewilderness
getawayandall theamenitiesofafive-star
resort.Theplace isconstructed toblend
with theenvironment, soguestshardly
notice theplatform tentspeekingoutof
the forestabove theBedwellestuary,or
thecookhouse, spaorbilliards tent.The
tentsareeach thesizeofasmallapartment,
appointedwithheirloom furniture, including
custom-builtwillowbeds, and illuminated
bycandlesandkerosene lanterns.
Arrivingdown from theresort townof
Tofino,which isa30-minuteridebyboat
(alternatively, theresorthasaprivate
floatplane to ferryguestsdirectly from
Vancouver), theadventurebeginsdockside
whereaNorwegianFjordHorse team
trotsusup to themaincamp,quietnow
becausecurrentguestsareoffexploring.
I freshenup inmy tentandreturn to the
cookhouse fora lunchofsalmonchowder
(thefishcaughtearlier thatmorning)and
barbecuedbisonburgers.Whilewe’re
eating,hostJohnCatonremindsus that
we’renot theonlyonesaround toenjoya
bitofsalmon:This is,hesays, thehome
of theblackbear.Hereassuresus thathe
keepsapackofEnglishsettersas“bear
dogs,” trained tochasebutnotattack,which
keep the localursinesatbay—mostly.
“Iwantallofyou toexperience this
placeas itoncewas,”saysCaton, “with
wolveschasingelk, thebearreturned to
theiroriginalnumberand thesalmonruns
forming thecalendar for thecommunity.”
Eatingover,ouractivitydirectorruns
through themenuof twodozenafternoon
activitiesranging fromskeetshooting to
horsebackriding in therain forest. Idecide
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