MAJESTICHISTORY
Valladolid
This is the citywhereCervantes lived (you can visit his residence),
ChristopherColumbus died (1506) and Isabella andFerdinandmarried
(1469). Briefly the capital of Spain from 1601 to 1606beforeMadrid
took control, Valladolid remainsCastile yLeón’s administrative capital.
Across from themodest palacewhere thepowerful SpanishKing
Phillip II was born, the sculpted façadeof theColegiodeSanGregorio
provides ahumanistic andhumorous feast of angels, royals and religious
leaders. It’s a compellingentrance into thenational sculpturemuseum’s
collectionof religious art and aGothic interior that greeted theologians,
mystics, writers and inquisitors intent onmakinghistory.
MODERN-DAYCUISINE
AbadíaRetuertaLeDomaine
Twohours outsideMadrid, this abbey, datingback to 1146, once
housed theFrenchPremonstratensianOrder. Now a five-star hotel
and spa, it allows guests todineonMichelin-starred cuisine and view its
soaring ceilings andmassive
stonewalls inBaroque and
Romanesque styles. The
buildingbecame the home
for villagers harvesting
grains after thewinemaking
monks werebanished in the
19th century. LeDomaine’s
ambitious owners sensitively
reconstructed the historic
structure, updating it for new
generations. They alsogave
wine enthusiasts a fabled respite amid 1,700 acres of vineyards and
wooded trails fromwhich to explore their ownwinery, the surrounding
RiberaDel Duerowine region and nearby historic sites.
CASTLECAVORTING
Peñafiel
The classicPeñafielCastlehouses apopular winemuseum andhosts
tours detailing theparadeof kings andqueenswhopausedhere as they
journeyed through their empire.Oneof thefirst wasAlfonsoX, whose
notable achievements in the 14th century included the translationof
Muslim, Jewish andChristian texts to increasemutual understanding
and create the foundation for scientific advancements.His nephew,Don
JuanManuel, continued the literary tradition, writingbooks inCastil-
ian toexpandhis audience.OneofCastile’s richestmen, his body is
entombed inside theChurchof SanPablo.
CASTLESANDQUEENS
Segovia
TheAlcazar of Segovia, theMoorish castlebegun in the 12th century,
wouldbe reasonenough to visit. Thiswhimsical palace is said tobe the
model for the castle in
SnowWhite and theSevenDwarfs
. Segovia is
known for its ancient, iconicRoman aqueduct that ismore than92 feet
high and 2,400 feet long andwhichoperated into the 20th century.
Awalk through town takes youpast Spain’s lastGothic cathedral, a
well-developedJewishquarter that surviveduntil theSpanish Inquisition
and the 1492 expulsiondecree, and thenearby squarewhereQueen
Isabellawas crowned in 1474.
–
STEVEN
BESCHLOSS
I LLUSTRAT IONS
DAVID SPARSHOTT
4
2
THIS ISAPLACE
FORHISTORY
ANDWINE,
CASTLESAND
CATHEDRALS.
GET
T
ING
THER
E
American
offersdailyflightsto
Madrid
(
MAD
)from
Dallas/FortWorth
(
DFW
;
exceptTuesdays),
Miami
(
MIA
),
NewYork
(
JFK
)and
Philadelphia
(
PHL
).
3
5
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