PREVIOUSSPREAD, FROMLEFT: KERENSU/GETTY IMAGES; LIWENBAO/CORBIS
THISSPREAD, FROMTOP: IANTROWER/CORBIS;MICHAELS. YAMASHITA/NATIONALGEOGRAPHICSTOCK
and self-assured student from Southeast
University inNanjing, means. Shanghai
couldhaveabillion residents (asoneday it
might), but itwillneverhave theheart and
historyofNanjing.
Whatdoes thisactually look like tofirst-
timevisitors?Itturnsoutthat8millionand
23millioncanfeelsomewhatsimilaronthe
ground.Therearebig,wideboulevardsand
traffic-choked freeways inboth cities. In
Nanjing, as inShanghai, Ihavea recurring
problem of trying to take a picture, espe-
ciallyanywhere scenicorhistoric,without
someoneelsewalkinginfrontofmycamera.
Chinaisanationofunwittingphotojumpers,
peoplewhoarejustblithelymovingthrough
theirbustlingdayand somehowkeep step-
pingintotheframeeachtimeItakeapicture.
Butonceyoureyes, earsandmedullaob-
longata get adjusted to the constant hum
that isChina,youcanstarttoseethethings
that setNanjingapart. Forme, it startson
my secondmorning in the city.My guide
and I are in search of tang bao, a thick-
skinned dumpling that is something of a
specialty inNanjing. Ihadheardof a tang
baoshopthatwas100yearsold, sowedrive
through amidmorning traffic jam to find
it.Whenwearrive,wefind that it’s aplain
FROMOPPOSITEPAGE:
Elephant statuesonStone
StatueRoadatMingXiaoling,which is aMing
Dynasty tombandaUNESCOWorldHeritageSite;
thedistinctive roundhousesof aNanjingvillage
Shanghaihas
23million inhabitants.…
Nanjing, incontrast,
iscozybyChinese-city
standards:Amere
8millionpeople livethere.
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DECEMBER 01, 2011
31
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