Stand fan for home,ceiling fan machine price 5.5kg,industrial indoor ceiling fans - PDF Books

Author: admin  //  Category: Exterior Ceiling Fans

I really like how the people standing in the background are kind of blury, it makes it easy to focus on the main characters. The purpose of this document is to help you avoid some of the common mistakes people make when installing an electric fan. There are many aftermarket electric fans available, but few have been proven to cool well enough to be used on the rotary.
Those points are important, and if you ignore them, you will probably have overheating problems.
The above method is the best way to mount the fan, however, it is perfectly acceptable to secure the fan directly to the radiator (if the fan mounting configuration will allow this) with zip ties. This is perhaps the most critical section, and probably the most overlooked and misunderstood. Now that we've covered what you shouldn't do, we will explain how to correctly wire your fan. Even though most thermostats have high-current contacts built in, it is important that you use a relay to switch the fan. The schematic above will activate the fan anytime the coolant temperature is above the threshold of the thermostat. The thermostat will typically have a probe that is to be positioned on the radiator somewhere.
If you require further details regarding the transaction data, please contact the supplier directly. Maybe your stock clutch fan has worn out, or perhaps you need to make room for that aftermarket rad or intercooler. It is important that the fan is installed properly to avoid such annoying side effects like overheating or electrical fires. There are many wrong ways to wire an e-fan, and they all are demonstrated during the frequent electric fan discussions on the various forums and mailing lists.
The fuse is perhaps the most important part, as it is all that stands between a wiring problem and electrical meltdown. The thermostat in your cooling system controls water flow through the rad depending on engine temperature. This means that the fan could continue to run for a few minutes even after the engine is shut off (on hot days).
Start conservatively with the fan coming on well below operating temperature, and then gradually increase the temperature setting until the fan maintains the proper (quarter gauge on the '86-'88 cars, half gauge on the 89+ cars) temperature. This pedestal floor fan has three speed settings, an adjustable tilting fan head, and 90-degree oscillation sweep.

Either way, this document will help explain the proper way to install and wire your new "e-fan".
Unfortunately, most of the time people make some common mistakes, which could lead to poor performance or dangerous electrical problems.
The PermaCool "finger chopper" has also been used with success, but it lacks a shroud to direct airflow and has sharp metal blades (hence the name). Overall, the best way to mount is to fab up a set of metal brackets that attach to the radiator support brackets, and then to the fan mounting tabs. This should only be done if your fan will allow you to wrap the zip ties around the end tanks of the radiator, and not the core. Without it, the fan will only pull air through the area directly in front of it's blades, as well as the side between the blades of the fan and the radiator. There is a major problem with this setup in that the fan is only required when sitting stationary or driving slowly.
It is critical that this fuse be located as close to your +12V source as possible, and be rated for "just enough" current to start and run the fan without allowing much overhead. To avoid this, and set up the fan so that it can only run when the engine is on, use the schematic below instead. The fuse is absolutely necessary, and should be located as close (physically and electrically) to your 12V source as possible.
If you are unsure as to the accuracy of your stock temperature gauge, you absolutely must verify your readings with another source. If you are installing an electric fan because you want more power or better cooling, you should read The Myth Of The Electric Fan before you continue, and make an informed decision on whether you want to go through with this mod.
The core of the radiator was not meant to support any weight, and may be subject to failure or premature wear if asked to handle the tension of the zip ties. The idea here is that you watch the temperature gauge, and manually turn the fan on at idle or when the temps begin to climb during low-speed creeping. These thermostats are available from most electric fan suppliers, as well as Summit Racing. Using a relay means that you will wear the contacts in a cheap relay, and not an expensive thermostat. It should go without saying that the thermostat be located away from moisture, dirt and excessive heat.
Either an aftermarket temperature gauge (with it's sender installed before the thermostat) or a thermometer. The fan loads an already factory-overloaded electrical system since the factory 2nd gen alternator is either rated at 70A ('86-'88) or 90A ('89-'92).

Searching the Summit online catalogue for "thermostat" or "fan switch" will quickly turn up several. The relay is also designed for high-current abuse, whereas the thermostat contacts might not be as robust. You will see that we use the thermostat to activate the relay, which then switches the fan. The fan should turn on around 190 degrees or so in most cases as the thermostat is supposed to open around 177-183 degrees F. Once placed, the support ribs in the shroud sit just below the end tank, allowing you to drill a small hole in the rib and thread a zip tie through it and around the end tank. Both the Blackmagic and Pontiac 6000 fans have shrouds that almost perfectly fit the stock 2nd gen radiator. Grounding can be any common source, but it is best to make your ground as short as possible.
The fan should not fight the water-thermostat in maintaining temp, and should only run for a few seconds after the car is turned off (unless the car is very hot).
Try to avoid the plastic fan mounting ties made for this purpose (they look like a ribbed string with a disk at each end) as they will damage radiator fins and put all the weight and tension onto the core.
The Fiero fan may or may not have a shroud, depending on which year of Fiero you get it from. If you use the chassis as ground, make sure to scrape away any paint that could interfere with your connection.
It's rear engine configuration means that airflow through the front mounted radiator is important.
In addition, even if you did free up a miniscule amount of engine horsepower by removing the slight inertia of the stock fan clutch, you are now burning it up (and more!) as the alternator puts more strain on the engine to produce the current necessary to run the fan. As far as I know, all fan thermostats are adjustable, but you might want to verify that the model you are looking at is before you buy.
It is entirely possible to have a defective temperature gauge, and the stock unit is only a relative indication of the true temperature of the car. Skipping the thermostat and just using a switch is not recommended, for reasons explained above.

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