05.08.2015

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Author: admin  //  Category: Ceiling Fan Size


I am in the midst of a lighting project where I am installing 4 new can lights in a room that has an existing ceiling fan.
I have wired all the lights in parallel, not in series and now just need to run the power and the switches everywhere. Pick the three way switch diagram that is most like the scenario you are in and see if you can wire a 3 way switch!Interested in a 4 Way Switch Wiring Diagram?
Hey, doing it yourself is great but if you are unsure of the advice given or the methods in which to job is done, don't do it. To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. So long story short, we bought a house almost a year ago and I have been working on updating different things throughout. My problem in the dining room is trying to figure out all of the existing wiring and ultimately replace a couple switches (trying to add Insteon HA switches).
All 3-way switch pairs operate by feeding power to one of the switches and attaching the load to the other switch. If you tell us the number of cables, the number wires, by color, in each cable (omitting ground wires), and how each wire is connected, in each box, we can help you figure this out.
Only if you install a new cable that encloses the neutral for this circuit along with the other conductors. I don't know how much these switches cost, but I'll bet it's more than a switch blank costs! Thanks for the pictures, but, since the wires aren't separated and the connections aren't visible, it's difficult to draw much information from them.
With your multimeter set to volts go to the switch box that you did not just identify a common in.
For the old fixture that I am replacing, the spliced wires were attached to the appropriate fixture wiring with standard wire nuts. If it is okay to simply cap off one hot and one neutral, does anyone have any guidance on how best to achieve a safe and effective cap besides using wire nuts and tape to prevent any arching?
In short, the previous wiring looked like a simple wiring, except that instead of one wire from the box connecting to one wire from the light, there were two wires of the same color wrapped together from the box connecting to one wire of the same color from the light. I haven't been using a multimeter (thought this was going to be a quick fix and wouldn't need it) but I'm going to borrow one to use. If I understand what you are saying about the wiring in the two junction boxes it sounds like it is standard wiring.
Does anyone have an idea why the one light is twice as bright (and the bulbs in it burn out twice as fast) as the second light? Have you tried switching the bulbs from one lamp to the other to see if the problem is still there?


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How do I convert a 3-way circuit with two lights into two 3-way circuits that control each light separately?
I have two switches in my kitchen, one on each side, that each turn on two lights at the same time. First of all: You will absolutely have to pull new wires for this, and it will involve opening the drywall in several places. You'll also have to patch the drywall after, and almost certainly repaint each wall you put a hole into.
Making diagrams for these is not simple, so if you describe or draw your current wiring diagram (or at least post pictures of the wires inside each box) then maybe I can provide some more concrete instructions. Basically, the situation is that there is a light in the kitchen and one, with a fan, in the smaller attached dining room.
Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged electrical wiring lighting or ask your own question. How can I convert two recessed lights on a single pole switch to two separate lights with light controls? How do I rewire two light fixtures controlled by two three way switches into two separate circuits? One switch is a single-pole which controls our back porch light, but a second black wire is coming out of the bottom screw so I'm not sure what that is.
You don't have to understand the circuit just how the wires are connected to the switch and connect the new switch the same way. On a switch loop and single gang box prior to 2011 code cycle if there is a neutral in one box it is not a switch loop.A switch loop won't carry the neutral to the switch box. It looks like there are some neutrals in my first box (the double gang box), but the other 3-way switch doesn't seem to have a neutral. Pictures taken with the switches pulled forward and the wires still connected might also help. It appears, from the 3-way wiring diagram for that switch, that one of the switches will be connected to power but not controlling anything. While I suggested running the neutral between the switch boxes I see they run it from the light to the second switch box. If you can confirm a red and a white connected to the switch you need to change the wiring back the way it was. What I want to do is change it around so each light is turned on separately but still from both sides of the kitchen. You may be able to get away with painting just a section of the ceiling without it being noticeable, but very rarely can you get away with it on a wall.


I would like to be able to turn on just the fan without having the kitchen light on as well. There are many options, and it really depends what you're willing to go through -- eg are you okay with opening drywall?
The hardware is more expensive and it's a bit more technologically complicated, but it may work out depending on the difficulty fishing wires and the types of repairs you need to do after. There is no way we can anticipate every situation and we do our best to inform of any risks for each job.
The other switch in this box is one of the switches being used for the 3-way for the light above our dining room table.
I specified single gang because it is possible on a multi-gang box to have a neutral that is not part of the light circuit you are wiring. Having a neutral available in every switch is now a requirement in most jurisdictions, but that is a recent change.
I used my volt meter and found that one of the black wires coming into the double gang is out, but i don't understand how the other switch gets the power (traveler?) and I definitely can't tell what is going to the light. I rewired the fixture and spliced power from a different switch so that power was entering the 3-way from there and then I was able to get the switches to do everything correctly! You can have 3 switches at two locations to control each light AND the fan independently (which means a few new wires and lots of holes in drywall), or depending on the current wiring you may be able to have one switch control both lights, and the other switch control the fan WITHOUT having to open walls up.
The position of those terminals will vary with manufacturer so actually identifying which wire to which seminal not position on switch is the important thing to remember. If you have a neutral at one switch box that is part of the light you wish to control then you can replace the 3-conducto (+g) cable between the switches with a 4-conductor(+g) cable. BTW, the Insteon's switches I'm looking to add are the switch ToggleLinc Dimmers (ToggleLinc Dimmer - INSTEON Remote Control Dimmer Switch, White - Smarthome). It also appears that if you have a true neutral that is part of the circuit for your dining room light (as Ray noted) in either box, and you have a pair of travelers between the two switch locations - which you do - then you can do what you're trying to do without adding any wires. Once disconnected you can determine which common is hot by measuring to ground with a analog multimeter or test light but do not use a non contact tester. Use your multimeter to determine which of those wires in which switch box has continuity to the light. A specialty switch may also require a neutral on the same circuit as the light which you may or may not have. If you find two wires that measure 120 volts to ground then we will have to test further but you shouldn't.



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