21.05.2013

Hunter ceiling fan wiring red wire basket,hunter ceiling fan pull switch replacement how,ceiling fan blades in wicker emporium,remote control for ceiling fan not working ubuntu - Downloads 2016

Author: admin  //  Category: Stand Fans


This wiring diagram explains how the power is starting at the switch box where a splice is made. A 3-wire cable is then taken from the switch box up to the approved ceiling fan junction box. Question from Brenda: I bought a ceiling fan and a separate dimmer switch, and I was told by the guy at Home Depot that I could install a dimmer switch for the ceiling fan light, and that I could use the pull chain switch on the ceiling fan for the ceiling fan motor. Brenda, because the ceiling fan box has power that feeds to wall plugs in the room then the black wire for the ceiling fan motor is attached to the power for the wall plugs which will enable the fan motor to be operated by the pull chain switch. I never have a problem replacing an old fixture but now I'd like to install a ceiling fan where there was no fixture before, just a plastic cover. Be sure that the ceiling electrical box is rated for a ceiling fan and not a light fixture box. I didn't get shocked even though I was holding the cover with both hands maybe my sneakers? The lesson here is to make sure the circuit is off, or the wall switch is in the OFF position. Veronica, if the ceiling electrical box only has a black, white and ground wire, then the red and black wires of the ceiling fan attach to the black wire of the ceiling electrical box, and the remaining wires connect white to white, and green to the ground. Michelle asks: I'm installing a ceiling fan where there once was a light fixture with a wall switch. Alan asks: I was going to tap into a light switch that is mounted on the wall, but everyone keeps telling me that i can't do that because their is no neutral wire there. You have not provided a lot of details here, however if you are trying to extend a 120 volt circuit to be used for a ceiling fan, then yes, a full power source is needed, hot, neutral and ground. The switch box in question will need to be examined to determine if a neutral is present or not. How to Fix Ceiling Fan Wiring Problems: Common Problems with Ceiling Fan Wiring and How to Fix Them, Identify the Ceiling Fan Wires for the Right Connections, Wires for Ceiling Fan Light Fixtures, Wiring Connections that Cause a Tripped Circuit Breaker. How to Identify Ceiling Fan and Light Switch Wiring: Guide to Troubleshoot and Repair Ceiling Fan and Switch Wiring Problems. Ceiling Fans are Typically Wired on a Shared Circuit with Other Lights and Outlets as Described Here where I describe the basic wiring connections. How to Fix a Dimmer Switch Wiring Problem: I tried to replace a ceiling fan dimmer switch but now it trips the circuit breaker. Questions and answers about wiring ceiling fans, installing ceiling fans, troubleshooting problems, inspection and repair. Depends on personal level experience, ability to work with tools and access to the ceiling fan.
Identify the ceiling fan circuit, turn it OFF and Tag it with a Note before working with the wiring.
Electrical parts and materials for ceiling fan wiring projects should be approved for the specific project and compliant with local and national electrical codes. Installing additional home electrical wiring should be done according to local and national electrical codes with a permit and be inspected. I think your site offers the the clearest and best electrical information for homeowners I have ever seen on the net.You have given me confidence to do my own projects which I never had before. I wish I found this site earlier, it is by far the best electrical related resource I have found on the web. As soon as either 3-way switch turns the power off to the fan, the remote will have no power to operate with. I think he just wants the remote so that when the guy is in his seat he can turn the lights or fan on or off and when he leaves the room via 1 of 2 or 3 doors he can leave the remote and shut down the fan via a switch. It's like using the remote control of your TV to turn it on and off because power is always on at the receptacle. To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. First things first: This house was build in the 1950s in Florida but the room where I am installing a new ceiling fan is an addition (I don't know when it was built). I've installed a ceiling fan before when there was no existing fan in place and it seemed quite simple. I know that often times the red wire is used with switches, but the number of bundles of wires is confusing me. Having said that, your cable 1 has line feed power on the black wire; the other readings are induced. Can you uncover and dismount the two switches, pull them out far enough to see which wires they're attached to and the cables and wires behind them, and describe that to us?
Honestly, I have not thought through the significance of these findings yet but I wanted to post it as soon as possible. Let's deal with the ground wires first, get them out of the way, and eliminate them from the diagram and discussion going forward.
Now, if I'm hearing you correctly, with all of the wires in the ceiling separated, there is always power on the black wire in Cable 1 in the ceiling, and turning S2 on feeds power to the black wire in C3. Yes two three-wire cables (excluding the bare copper wire which I had in orange) and one two-wire cable. Correct, what I have labeled as WB1, the black wire is 120V and what I have labeled as WB3, black goes 120 only when switch2 is turned on. Actually, except for the red wire not being capped, that's sounding like the most normal part of this setup. Presumably, the 2-wire cable in the ceiling (C3) is the 2-wire cable in the switch box (also C3, conveniently enough).
If all of that is accurate, then C1 in the ceiling and C2 in the switch box are connected together somewhere upstream.
Your original take on this was correct: You're looking at more wires than you need to make the fan and light work properly.
If you do find continuity, put the two wires pack on the dimmer switch and remove the wire nut that's holding the wires together in the ceiling. Even if you are experienced in working with household electricity, the disclaimer at the top of this web page contains important notes about the information in this document, so please read it if you have not already done so. This web page describes repairs made to a ceiling fan with a pull-chain speed control switch.
Ceiling fans with pull chains typically include a speed control switch, a direction switch, and a capacitor. The information in this document is based on my experience fixing a ceiling fan with a 3-speed (plus off) switch and a 5-wire capacitor. In the lower hub of the ceiling fan where the capacitor and switches are located, several wires come down from higher in the fan. The black wires on the diagram are connected to the black wire that comes down from higher in the fan. After completing the repair, I noticed than when switching from medium speed to high speed there is sometimes a slight audible "pop" suggesting sparking inside the switch. Before disconnecting any wires, make sure you write down what the original connections are. If you do not know the pattern of the original switch and cannot find any information on it, you might consider disassembling the switch (after removing it from the fan, obviously) to see if you can determine the contact pattern.
If you cannot determine the pattern of your original switch or are unsuccessful working from the original pattern, a more in-depth approach is required. Most likely a capacitor needs to be in series between the incoming power and the motor winding.
You also need to know the internal configuration of your capacitor, since ceiling fan capacitors often contain multiple capacitors in one package.
Once you know the internals of your capacitor block, you need to figure out a switch wiring that will create the desired combinations of capacitors. Note that all this experimentation with wire positions is done on paper, not with the actual wires.
There are 2 wall switches dedicated to operate lights and fan independently and that's how I would like it to be. I managed to trace the wire that goes to the light kit, and spliced it directly with the red wire going to the wall switch.
The wire I spliced was connected to blue wire coming from the black square box - that box has no antenna though, so I guess it's not the remote unit. Edit2: U shaped brown box is definitely a remote unit and the square pigtail connector looks awfully familiar to older type of fan remote units.
Sleeve going town towards the motor also has white and black braided wires, which are light kit wires. So with just 3 wires (and no apparent white neutral) to the motor, does it seem like a regular motor wiring would be? Edit: I should have mentioned that when wired through a 3 speed wall fan control, it effectively gives the fan 18 speeds. I couldn't find instructions online for the Harbor Breeze fan, but the instructions for the Hampton Bay fan show one hot, one neutral and one ground connected. I'm not sure whether it's the DC motor or the built-in whether-you-want-it-or-not remote, but you apparently can't control the motor and light independently with wall controls on either of these fans. I'm ambivalent on the subject of remotes, but I clearly hear your dislike for them and your clear reasons for that dislike.


On 54" fan I have light working independently as it was easy to figure out which wire was going to the light kit.
I also found a place to get reverse switches that can be added on the case, but it really isn't the most important thing as I am not planning to use fans in the winter. Not helpful but from what I found it is probably brushless DC motor that has permanent magnets in the rotor and coils in the stator that are controlled by microprocessors.
If that huge open area is roughly the size of a hayloft, then that fan may be the right size for it.
9 vs 5 vs 4 blades apart, efficiency beats all the odds as both fans are above Energy Star ratings. QUESTION: Before we installed the ceiling fan we checked the 2 wall switches to see if they indeed did control any of the outlet wall sockets and they did NOT so we assumed that one switch would control the fan and the other would control the light.
This site answers questions related to home electrical wiring, home wiring, general electrical help,and other electrical questions related to aleternating current (AC). All anyone here can do is provide a wide range of prices, often in hundreds or thousands of dollars span. Best that you contact at least three local contractors to get quotes for the same exact scope of work relating to your project. Even getting pricing from local contractors you often will see a substantial price difference. ErrorSorry!This page is currently unavailable while we undergo routine maintenance.We apologize for any inconvenience. The dimmer switch for the ceiling fan light is connected the same way as the regular switch which was wired at the wall switch box which will enable dimmer switch control for the ceiling fan light. What I will suggest is to make sure the fan box is mounted securely and your connections are tight. There are 2 BIG wires coming out of the ceiling, with a copper, a black, and a white from each BIG wire. Some switch boxes do, some do not, and you must understand that just because you may see a white wire, the white wire may be used for switching, especially if it is connected to the light switch. As soon as either 3-way switch turns the power off, the remote & fan have to power to operate with.
Perhaps some over confidence paired with a bad approach of not observing how the previous fan was hooked up got me here. And cable 3 has line power on the black wire iff switch 2, a snap switch which controlled the fan motor when the earlier fixture was installed, is switched ON.
I think that including the ground wires, in a color similar to a red wire, may have thrown me off. In both boxes, all of the ground wires need to be spliced (twisted) together with a pigtail for each device. Does turning one breaker off eliminate the power on C1 in the ceiling and the power that S2 can supply to C3 in the ceiling? I still would like to be sure that the white wire attached to the dimmer switch functions to provide neutral, but there's not much else it could be if that dimmer is just a single-pole device controlling the lights. If so, before you turn the power back on, take a wire nut and use it to connect any two of the insulated wires in C2 in the ceiling - no need to make a splice, we're just testing. Turn the power on and check each of the black wires from Switch 2 for voltage, hot-to-neutral, to see which one is the line feed. While you're at it, could you at the three terminal screws on Switch 1 and see if one of them is noticeably darker than the other two?
A common problem with these switches is that the pull chain can break off inside the switch. Unfortunately, there is no agreement among manufacturers about how to configure these components. However, I have also included some information on how to apply these concepts to the general case, so this information may be helpful even if you have a different type of capacitor or switch. A fan capacitor with more than two wires will probably contain multiple capacitors in one block. Basically this arrangement puts the input power through a capacitor and then into one of the motor windings.
The black wire from the fan originally branched into two, but it was necessary to add a third to work with this switch.
If you know which contacts the switch connects in each speed position, then you can determine by inspection which wires get connected for each speed setting. In the case of my fan, as described in the previous paragraph, this means connecting a capacitor in series between the black and gray wires. If you do not know the internal configuration of your capacitor, you could make measurements to discover it. I don't care if the fans end up running just 1 way and have 3 speeds from proper wall fan control switches. I got Harbor Breeze Helicopter Slinger and Hampton Bay Winfield - not sure if I should post links here, but they are easily googleable at 2 big name stores.
It makes me believe that fan could be wired so it bypasses the remote unit and I still get my 3 speeds. As counter-intuitive as it may seem, for two fans the same diameter, a 4-blade fan is more efficient than a 5-blade fan.
Fan wire is hooked up to the wall fan control unit (standard 3 speed) but once it's turned off, to make it run a remote has to be used. I recall seeing something about inner and outer windings and L1, L2, N1 or so designations.
Without neutral and motor likely grounding through the case, I am betting that combinations of them 3 wires result in 6 different speeds.
When you kill it with the wall switch and then turn the switch on, remote has to be used to make it run.
Wiring it in any manner other than the manner specified in the installation instructions will almost certainly void the warranty and leave you with no basis for a claim for, say, replacement.
Of course your standard 3 speed wall fan control unit Guarantees the exact same thing, but the fan wasn't designed or built to work with that. The Cottage side porch opens into the end Hunter porch, all in one cabin!Every cabin starts out as a basic completed shell; then you add only the options that you need or desire.
In your case make sure that the other switch doesn't control something else usually it will control a outlet either the top,bottom or the whole outlet. Both of the wall switches are single pole and have a red wire (on both switches) that is inserted in the back at the top of the switch(s).
I have only a black and white wire at the wall switch for the dimmer switch, and two black and white wires in the ceiling fan box with about four separate white wires due to the fact that the ceiling light provides power to several wall plugs in the room.
Because the ceiling fan box is a junction box which supplies power to the wall plugs the wiring can be a little complicated and it would be best to have a qualified electrician make these wiring connections for you. If the yellow wire is marked with a green stripe then it is the ground, or there may be a solid green wire that is used for the ground. I used a voltmeter and touched one to the box and other to fan bracket and I got a long beep until I removed the red or black tester lead. In the ceiling box you have three 3-wire cables, so called because each cable has three current-carrying conductors: the black, red and white wires. In the switch box, this means that there will be five wires in the splice: one from each cable and one for each switch.
In the switch box there are three bare copper wires (in orange) which are attached to the switches via a screw down. But C1 in the ceiling also has an incoming power feed, on the black wire, with all of the wires in the ceiling box separated, and one breaker turns off the power to both. I'm trying to determine the function of each terminal on it, especially the one where the white wire is connected. Does that switch have a night-light or a timer or some other feature that would require a complete circuit?
The remove the two wires with those same colors from the dimmer switch and test them for continuity. My girlfriend said she never used that switch and I think we prematurely settled on that meaning it had nothing to do with this setup - clearly it does. Unfortunately, there are many types of fan switches and it is very difficult to find the right replacement.
First, increasing the capacitance in series with the coil will typically increase the fan speed. IMPORTANT: Keep in mind that this wiring is for a particular switch type and a particular fan. Then it is just a matter of finding a way to wire your new switch to replicate those connection patterns. The speed switch will also be involved of course, since it will determine which capacitor(s) are connected between the black and gray wires. Important: Remember when working with capacitors that they can store a charge even when not connected to anything.
However, please know that I cannot provide simple "this color wire goes here" responses to your questions about your particular fan. But, both fans have just something like 16-2 (black, white, neutral) pigtails and come with remote controls that I have always hated and have no plans to use them.


Since it sounds like the other fan wires the same way, my guess is that they have rectifiers built into them. I think you would do best to return those two fans and buy two others that are the right sizes and that can be controlled the way you would like. I would plug in a lamp or a radio and try each outlet top  & bottom while switching the switch to find out what it controls. I am pretty sure that one switch is for the fan and one is for the light but am not sure how to wire the wall switches.
In many homes that are pre-wired for ceiling fans there will typically be two colors and the white, along with the ground wire.
Coming out of the left side of box is 4 wires an exposed red an exposed blue (They were just cut and left)a white wire and a black wire. I'm assuming black and red are my 2 supply wires, red to the light black to the single pole, single throw wall switch. The ceiling fan i have has a remote control set-up and it only works with the remote setup because the fan has no pull chains to operate the light or fan. If he wanted to be able to override the switches with remote then he would have to have some kind of relay in the circuit wired to the remote sensor to have a perminant live come on when the light siwtch is turned off.
The main thing I am trying to figure out is how to get this fan wired so it works with two switches. If all of the ceiling wires are now separated - which is what you seem to be saying - then switch 2 must be fed from a different source. All 5 would appear in one box, and the three from the 3-wire cable would appear in the other, so it would look like 8, but that's OK.
However, it may be possible to use a different type of replacement switch with modified wiring. The capacitors come in even more variations, including different numbers of wires, different wire colors, and different capacitance values. So, even if you are using a different type of fan, please read all the sections because they will help you understand how to figure out your particular ceiling fan.
In this regard, note that a short (direct wire, no capacitor) is like an infinite capacitor (for AC power only, not DC). If you cannot get a replacement, or would rather just try to use whatever switch you can find at a local store, the following information may be helpful. For example, if you know that blue and black connect to make high and orange and black connect to make medium (just for example), then you would try to find a way to wire your new switch to make those same connections when you pull the chain.
Next I decided to use the 5 µF capacitor that is accessible through the green wire on the capacitor block.
To check your wiring on paper, carefully trace out what the circuit will be for each switch position. Both Hunter and Casablanca (a Hunter brand) start their fan selection process by asking about the size of the room the fan will be in. I have attached a picture of the installation page from the Hunter manual that shows the single and double switch wiring. The darkest wire is generally for the fan motor connection, the next colored wire is generally for the ceiling fan light.
Coming in the right side of the box is White wire, Black wire, and a silver stripped thick wire that was wrapped around the center nut of the box. The ceiling fan has a light kit, and a blue wire (for the light, it says)in addition to the white and the black. Might as well have no switch wired to it if the guy wants to have it fully controlled via a remote. The other gray capacitor wire twists together with the gray wire coming from the direction switch. Discharge the capacitor safely and verify that it is discharged (using a volt meter perhaps) before touching the leads with your hands. They may or may not make fans you like, in terms of appearance, but going through that process is an easy way of learning what size and type of fan should work best. I attached the black to black, white to white, green to green and the black with white stripe to the red ceiling wire. It appears that your area is Chicago, which has homes that are typically wired using conduit and not a Type NM Cable, and this is why the colors of the wires are not found to be Black, Red and White. I spliced the black and blue from the fan to the black that was attached to the old light, and the white to the white.
The light comes on from the three different locations with the fan off, the fan works with the remote on all speeds with the light off.
Note that the two 5 µF capacitors are in parallel with each other and this combination is in series between the black wire and the motor. The red capacitor wire twists together with the red wire that comes down from higher in the ceiling fan. Remember that the gray wires from the capacitor are connected internally to the other end of the capacitors that are on the green, brown, and red wires (see capacitor internals diagram above).
The wall switches (2 switches)are both single pole but there only turn the light off and on and to turn the fan on it must be turned on at the fan. Even in a good picture it may be very difficult to read labels engraved or stamped on plastic parts.
The approach I took was to measure the capacitance between each possible pair of wires and then draw a diagram. Also, one of the gray wires from the capacitor goes to the gray wire from the direction switch, and from there to the motor. What should the wiring be in the wall switches to get one switch to control the fan and the other to control the light. So, for example, it starts by connecting L and 1 on the top deck and, separately, L and 1 on the middle deck.
Then verify your design by looking at your diagram and thinking about which wires the switch will connect in each position. What I am describing here is just the logical process I followed for determining what these wires are. So now I have 5 µF in series between black and gray when the switch is in position L-1. The fan would wobble on high speed so I picked up one of those boxes with adjustable side feet that push into the rafters. After discharging the capacitor, it may be wise to check with a volt meter to make sure no charge remains between any pair of leads. On the next pull it connects 1 and 2, then 2 and 3, then 3 and L, and finally back to L and 1. The red wire from the fan was connected directly to the red wire on the capacitor, so I left it that way. I had a ceiling fan up there before, and had it wired the same way, and the fan worked, but barely- only had a very slow speed, not 3 like it's supposed to.
I found that the black wire is apparently hot (as usual), and the white is neutral (as usual). If you cannot find the internal configuration of your capacitor, another approach would be to consider obtaining a new capacitor whose internals you do know. I needed black to connect with this in switch position 1-2, so I added another black on contact 2 on the middle deck. On the top of the direction switch, the yellow is on the right side of the switch and the pink is on the left. At the same time, I wanted black and brown connected on the top deck so that I would have the two capacitors in parallel. YOU MUST TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT THE FAN IS ATTACHED TO AND VERIFY THAT THE FAN IS NOT RECEIVING POWER. In the middle of the direction switch, the white wire comes into the left side and a gray wire is on the right side. By flipping the order of the yellow and pink wires (by moving the direction switch), the rotation direction of the ceiling fan is reversed. LOL I don't know but God was looking out for me cause I had to change my boxers after that POOW-LAMO! Since white (neutral) is on the left, the gray wire on the right seems to be the wire through which power is supplied to the motor winding.
Now when the switch is in position 2-3, the black and gray wires connect on the top deck and there is no connection on the bottom deck.
Note that I had to put the gray wire in contact 3 on top because even though the middle deck has black on 2 as well, it also has black on L, which would make position 3-L another high, rather than off. In my fan, it originally connected directly to the capacitor and not the speed switch, so I left this connection as it was. This is just an example of the logical approach required to develop a suitable switch wiring once you know the pattern of your switch and the internals of your capacitor. The above information about wire colors is not intended to apply directly to any particular fan.



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