Home ac blower motor capacitor,fan without blades online india 8gb,windows 7 control fan speed xp,energy efficient ceiling fans pakistan - For Begninners

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The only way to measure current is with either an in line amp meter and shunt or a clamp on amp meter. Once up and running with a clamp on meter, you move the restriction opening it wider until you reach the max amps on the name plate. ANSWER: It is just like a furnace, as long as you restrict the square opening and borrow a clamp on to know where your current is you will be fine, you can even buy an inexpensive clamp on amp meter, at a hardware store, we are in Kansas City Missouri, EMR Repair Inc, we do all kinds of motor repair and have a handful of meters, if you are close you are welcome to borrow one.
If you are going to put duct work on the flanged side, then your restriction might be just the duct work dependent on how much the duct work restricts the air flow, so you really need a meter. If so keep in mind wood dust, most any kind of dust is explosive, and normally a blower used to remove some kind or air borne particles needs to be rated explosion proof. People do this all the time, and there is just no easy way to know that what they are trying to do and bad accidents happen, wood dust explodes, gas from a leaky lawnmower is sucked in and a spark sets it off, so be careful with what you are sucking into this thing.
Also if you look carefully the motor is not original on that cage, see the holes on frame, and the mounting fins holding the motor out? WHERE THE WHEEL is in the housing will make the current jump all over, the tighter the fit the more air the more current, most do not get the wheel back in the housing where it should be. So once it is up and running play with the blower location and note your current, it should be set where the current is the lowest, then the highest, and then right in the middle.
AnswerYou obviously know that simply stopping the smoking would rid all these issues, but it is good to know we have no explosion issues. Remember that when you move air, if you are moving it outside, the new air has to come from somewhere. I smoked for quite a few years myself so I understand these things, it seems really hard to do, but actually quitting smoking was very easy, I used the gum and got sore jaws, the worst of it all. But your blower will move some air, just remember the air will replace itself, from somewhere.
This site answers questions related to home electrical wiring, home wiring, general electrical help,and other electrical questions related to aleternating current (AC). ExpertiseElectrical issues of all types, wiring, control, appliances, components, specialty in Electric MOTOR or APPARATUS trouble shooting, electric motors, electrical problems, single phase, three phase, DC, capacitors, elevator MG-Sets, modifications, reverse engineering, VFD Drives, single to three phase convertors. Modifications, habitual failures, vibration, redesign, obsolete issues, collectible items restored, rewinding. B2B or business to business CONSULTING I can do but it would be a much more complex issue, that would require a significant amount of time. Electric motor questions, can be answered here but there is a dedicated category that has other experts to help and add to a solution. DIY, with electrical is possible, but in most cases the use of a simple ohm meter or volt meter is needed, they can be purchased at any hardware store for a few bucks.
If you have smoke, or smell smoke, don't be writing me, call 911 the Fire Department has no problem looking for smoke smells, better then spraying water on a blazing fire. I have been in the business of repairing most anything with wires or mechanical parts for decades, I have some helpful hints and directions you won't have to dig up. Electrical Question: I am wiring a thermostat, How do I know which wires to connect to the terminals? I am purchasing a home which I noticed the thermostat is missing and the wiring is there but no thermostat.
I have replaced the one in my current home and used the old thermostat wiring set up to do the new one and it works fine. My question is how do I know which wires go to what terminals since the instructions say do not worry about the colors, use the old one to set up the new one, but there is no oldĀ thermostat there. Tools Required: Basic Electrical Hand Tools including a small screw driver and small wire strippers.
Estimated Time: Depends on personal level experience and ability to work with tools and the small thermostat wires.
Precaution: Identify the circuit for the furnace or heat pump, turn it OFF and Tag it with a Note before working with the thermostat wiring. NOTE: Although many home heating and air conditioning systems have a standard type thermostat cable with color coded wires, the wires should be identified to make sure of the exact purpose for each wire.
The wire used on the original thermostat for first stage cooling or second stage cooling must be identified for your system.
I have an Old Hunter Set and Save II Thermostat that has R to R, W to W, G to G, and Blue wire to Y.
The instructions for the Programmable WIFI Thermostat refer to a typical wiring arrangement and wire colors, however this is not the case at some installations. To simplify things consider that if the original thermostat was working correctly, then we would be safe to adapt the wire colors and their connections over to the new thermostat. I will never be able to convince my wife to pay a professional $150 to install a $150 thermostat – It may be best to simply return the unit. Follow up – Connected the C (blue wire) to the C terminal at the furnace, along with the Y (yellow wire), which also was connected to the C terminal and everything works fine. I am trying to install a new thermostat, but I have no green wire only Red, white, yellow and blue. When wiring a replacement thermostat the colors of the wires and the connections will need to be transferred from the existing thermostat to the new thermostat. I purchased a Honeywell thermostat a couple years ago, and it took some splicing and rewiring at the furnace to get it working. The thermostat wire colors should be identified at the air conditioner unit which will help you make the proper connections at the new thermostat. I believe the instructions for the Honeywell thermostat are accurate under ideal installations where the wiring has not been altered or spliced.
I recently replaced my old mercury thermostat with a new programmable Honeywell thermostat. From what you are describing you may not need a jumper wire for the new thermostat, however this will highly depend on the type of heating and cooling system you have, and the specific components that are in the system. I replaced a simple two wire thermostat four days ago and the furnace seems to be running normally. Your right, replacing the thermostat will only take care of turning the furnace on and off.

It would be best to have the furnace unit checked out along with the ventilation duct work as well to make sure the ducting is not restricted and sealed properly to ensure normal air flow. First of all, you will need your old thermostat and the label information you created before removing the original wiring. In one column of the table write down the original wiring connections, noting the terminal label and the wire color for each cable. On the other column of the table record any known labels that are identified on the new thermostat which logically match the original thermostat. As you do this procedure notice the labels and designations on the thermostat and you may begin to notice the logic of what the wires are used for compared to the specific HVAC system that you have. It will help to understand that not all HVAC systems are alike, or have the same components.
It is likely that the 5 wire cable goes directly to the main furnace unit, and the 3 wire cable goes to another component of the system, such as a air conditioning compressor, which obviously would be part of the cooling mode. From what you have described, your new Honeywell thermostat does not require the C terminal connection, therefore cap off the black wire with a small wire nut or wrap it with electrical tape and keep it as spare. I would first check to make sure the thermostat is switched over to Cooling mode, and that it is not in the Heating mode. If you find that the thermostat is set correctly then consider contacting the company whom you previously paid to rewire the thermostat and ask them if they guarantee their work and allow them the opportunity to correct the thermostat problem. As described in this article for wiring a thermostat, each thermostat control wire of your HVAC system will need to be identified so the thermostat may be wired correctly.
I’m attempting to replace an old Carrier TSTAT Comfort Series thermostat with a Honeywell TH6110D.
On the Carrier, the Yellow wire is connected to terminal RS-, the Red to RS+, the Blue to V+ and the White to VG.
I just installed a programable honeywell thermostat to both my upstairs and downstairs units.
When the colors of the thermostat wires are not standard then a conversion chart or diagram will need to be made to identify the wire colors that you have and how they will be connected. The red wire typically provides the 24 volt power source for a heating and cooling thermostat.
If the HVAC functions work for the fan and the heat, then the only function left would be the cooling, which is commonly the blue wire of the thermostat cable. On my furnace, a white wire was attached to the C terminal and then pig tailed to a red wire.
From what you have described about this low voltage thermostat wiring the blower motor has been wired direct and that’s why it is running all the time, which could be because there is a direct connection between R and G.
The basic operation that takes place when a furnace is calling for Heat is where R (the positive wire of the low voltage power supply) makes contact with W (the first stage heat). It is important that the wiring at the thermostat will only work right if the low voltage thermostat wiring at the furnace is connected correctly.
I re-hooked the thermostat back the way the wires were on the furnace but the blower still runs all the time. Keep in mind that the wire connections of the typical thermostat comply with a standard for most systems, but there are deviations, so this is where verification is important. Roger, if I were dealing with this situation, I would go to the furnace unit, check the schematic diagrams as described in the preceding, and then work directly with the low voltage thermostat wires at the unit and manually make the connections and watch the unit operate.
Intermediate to Advanced - Electrical Repairs and Circuit Wiring is Best Performed by a Certified Electrician or Licensed Electrical Contractor. Depends on personal level experience, ability to work with tools, work with electrical wiring, and the available access to the project area. Identify the project circuit, turn it OFF and Tag it with a Note before working with the wiring.
Modifying existing electrical circuits or installing additional electrical wiring should be done according to local and National Electrical Codes, with a permit and be inspected. If you require further details regarding the transaction data, please contact the supplier directly. If you use Internet Explorer you need at least version 10 to be able to view these pages correctly. That way you can play with the speeds, you have one common which is yellow the others are speeds, and will have different amperages, cfm, so on. Electrical and mechanical repairs, trouble shooting including, vibration and balance issues.
The wire colors and number of wires are typically the same as shown below in the thermostat wiring table. Wall mounted units are great for offices, sun rooms, room additions, garages and are used in hotel and motel rooms. The old original has a red wire connected to RH with a crossover from RH to RC the green wire to g. Transposing the wire connections from the old thermostat to the new thermostat should be correct.
Instructions state to connect the BLUE WIRE to the C terminal on the new unit and to the C terminal at the furnace. Therefore, when we are faced with alternative wiring we must positively the existing wiring configuration and transpose the wiring over to the wiring configuration of the new thermostat. The old Honeywell thermostat had the Blue in the G terminal, but that does not even work now for the new or old thermostat. Because not all thermostats are alike, it is important to make sure the replacement thermostat is identical or fully compatible with your heating and cooling system, and serves as a replacement for the original thermostat.
The new place I moved to has an orange wire as the common, green wire for the fan, and red and white wires. You have discovered that your thermostat wiring has been spliced and the color sequence changed, therefore it may be helpful to chart out the wiring to understand the actual purpose of each individual wire. Compare the wiring to the tables provided above, and most of all the instructions and wiring diagrams that came with the new thermostat.
Air flow restriction due to obstructed furnace filters can put a strain on the blower unit and will affect the efficiency of heating or cooling the home.

However the function of heating and cooling is still the same, but may involve different system components. However, the only way to positively identify all of the wires of each cable would be to find the other end and note each wire connection, and this information could actually be used for a 3rd column of information in your table.
The condenser unit should be tested by a HVAC technician, and the freon level should be checked as well. Keep in mind that for the heating and cooling cycles there are actually three wires involved, the Power Supply, the Heating Cycle, and the Cooling Cycle.
Programmable thermostats are great, but they can be challenging to set up, and the default programming can be tricky to understand as well. I have blue, green, orange, brown, but no red, a lot of white blue, white orange, white brown, and white green wires.
It is possible that the original thermostat cable has been spliced to the wires that you are describing. If the white and red wire were reversed this could prevent all of the thermostat functions from working properly, especially when in the cooling mode.
Keep in mind that there may be thermostat cables with different wire colors, therefore it will be best to check the connections of the cable at the HVAC unit to see how the thermostat wire colors are assigned for the functions of the HVAV unit.
When this switch is in the AUTO position, or with thermostats that do not have this switch option, the fan blower motor will operate automatically by heat sensors in the furnace when the heater is working.
The verification has to be made at the furnace unit itself, starting with the schematic, specifically the low voltage thermostat portion of the schematic. Once the operation has been verified and the furnace unit is operation normally then I would connect the thermostat cable and make the appropriate connections to the thermostat. After lots of searching I found out that the vacuum master switch does not get enough vacuum to be switched on.
The minimum resolution of your monitor has to be at least 1024x768 pixels - larger is even better. I am trying to use a Honeywell THX9000 stat which doing the same connections there with the R and RC Jumper in place, does not work.
The thermostat batteries typically have a long life, however they can be tested with a volt meter on the DC setting. I traced the wires back and they seem to go from red and white then in basement red goes to black and then back to red. Once this information is identified then the correct connections to the new thermostat will be possible.
There is typically a furnace filter located behind the return vent grill or register which is normally located in the hallway in the ceiling or on the wall. I noticed an unused blue wire and when I opened the furnace control panel I noticed that the blue wire was not connected to anything on that end either.
Make sure the condenser unit coils are clean to provide unrestricted air flow through the coils. If you find that the system is not functioning properly then you may have to verify the wiring.
Contact your local electrical utility provider for more information about Smart Meter programs in your area. If any one of these wires are not connected properly the cycles will either not work, or the cycles will be incorrect. The charts on this page will help you understand the typical functions for each wire, and by using a voltage tester the power source may be identified, and the additional functions. From what you have described, the serviceman made the right corrections to enable the thermostat to work properly. Also if I do, should I connect the pig tailed white wire to the W terminal and pigtailed red to the R terminal or should I reverse them connecting R to the white wire and W to red wire? Where the blue connects to the the screw there is a yellow wire that is connected to the old thermostat it self. There may also be a filter inside the furnace blower compartment, it just depends on which type of furnace you have.
Do I just eliminate using the black wire on the new stat and keep everything else the same? Hang on to the old thermostat just in case you need to compare the old connections and functions with the new thermostat. It would be very helpful to examine the thermostat wiring diagram and the wiring as it is connected to the control board at the furnace which will provide a clear understanding of the function for each of the thermostat wires. I plan to hook red to rh and a jumper to rc, g to green, w to white, y to yellow, on the thermostat.
It’s always best to fully understand the function of each wire, which can then be verified with the functions associated with each wire terminal of the thermostat. When I moved in, I re-connected the thermostat, hooking the white wire to the W terminal and the red wire to the R terminal.
I then unhooked the wires that were hooked up to the furnace but recorded where they had been connected.
Three parts could cause this problem: The dash switch with its rotary valve from where I can hear a slight hissing noise, the power servo on the firewall or the master switch itself - what I doubt. The furnace runs great as does the blower BUT the blower will not shut off and runs all the time. It was getting too hot to function, so I just turned off all the power, put the old thermostat back on the wall wired exactly as before, and disconnected the blue wire in the furnace control center again. When I set the temperature on the thermostat the heat goes on and off but the blower keeps running. Hopefully they will arrive soon as I would like to have this issue resolved before the Cadillac Big Meet.
It keeps tripping and making he house unbearably hot and then we have to go out and flick the breaker just to get it working again.

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