17.02.2014

Hampton bay 3 speed fan switch wiring nz,ceiling fan store greensboro nc menu,stainless steel ceiling fan blades,feature comforts tower fan reviews comparison - Good Point

Author: admin  //  Category: Fan Switches


The diagrams on this page are for wiring a ceiling fan and light kit often used in a living room or bedroom. This wiring diagram illustrates the connections for dual controls, a speed controller for the fan and a dimmer for the lights. This diagram is similar to the one above, but with the electrical source originating at the fixture. This wiring arrangement allows for lowering the lights with a dimmer and controlling the fan with the built-in pull chain. Use this wiring when the source is at the fixture and you want to control the feed to both components with the same switch. Use this wiring when the power source originates at the switch and you want to control both the fan and light from there. The right size ceiling fan for your room depends on more than just the square footage or your area.
As a general rule, you can start with the recommended fan for a given room size as follows: For a large room of 15'x15' or more, choose a ceiling fan with a blade span of 52, 56 or 60 inches. Usually there is a small sliding switch on the side of the motor housing that will control the fan direction. H4 Switch Wiring HarnessH4 Switch Wiring Harnessis for H4 flexible bulbs,can instead of h4 flexible original wiring harness,1pc connect 1 bulb.
I would say the problem could be the fan switch or even the capacitor, as Christine showed above in her last post on this thread.
Once you replace those two items, and you don't have a remote control on the fan, then your fan should be up and running again!
Depending on what your fan is will determine how the receiver or if other parts can be replaced.
While you can just replace the receiver, it may also be a capacitor to blame for your fan having one speed as it is now. If you still can't find it you can always call the Hampton Bay Customer Service line and order it from them. If you need more detail or assistance please reply with the switch and fan make and model numbers and more detail about the situation ..
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Wiring arrangements for an electrical source at the switch and at the ceiling fixture are included, as well as controls for fan speed, light dimmer and a single-pole switch hardwired to control the light with a pull chain. These include a timer to control the fan, a single-pole switch controlling the fan, and an exhaust fan and light fixture wired on two different switches. The white wire is usually the neutral which is always connected directly to the source neutral, either at the source or through a splice in the switch box.


The source is at the controllers and the input of each is spliced to the black source wire with a pigtail. The white wire is no longer used for hot and the source neutral is run through to the switch box to satisfy the 2011 NEC requirement of a neutral wire in all switch boxes. The source is at the ceiling outlet box and 3-wire cable runs from there to the switch box. Three-wire cable runs from the fan to the switch box and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire and to the fan neutral. These fans usually come with a small electrical connection box welded to the side of the housing. There should be two hot wires and a ground coming out of the timer casing, splice one of these to the hot source. The light is controlled with a single-pole switch and the fan controlled with a timer as in the previous drawing.
Furniture, normal ambient temperature for the room, and ceiling height will all have an effect on the efficiency of the fan you choose. For a 12'x12' room, go with 44 to 48 inches of blade span, and for small rooms of 8'x8' or so, a blade span of 36 inches should do the trick. This function allows for more efficient cooling in the summer and for circulating heat in the room during the winter.
Lots of Hampton Bay fans can have their receiver replaced via our instock replacement remotes. If you wish to accomplish this from a wall switch, then those wires from the internal fan switch would have to be extended to the wall switch. The neutral from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan kit and the cable, running it through to the switch box. The source hot is spliced to the red wire which is connected to the bottom terminals on the switch at the other end.
With this arrangement the light is controlled with the switch and the fan is hardwired for pull-chain control. With this arrangement, the fan is controlled by a pull-chain on the motor housing and the light is controlled with the switch. The hot source is spliced to each controlling device and the output of the controllers are connected as in the previous diagrams on this page.
If you're installing more than one ceiling fan in a room or hall, set the distance between the two at 2 times the blade span.
With this attitude, a counter clockwise spin will force air down into the room creating a cooling breeze. In most cases sliding the switch down will set counter clockwise spin, while sliding it up will set clockwise spin.


If this is a remote control situation, then your manual should be able to hepl you resolve it.
The black wire is splice to the output on the speed controller and to the black, fan wire at the other end. The hot source wire is spliced to the white on the 3-wire cable and then spliced to the input wires on both controllers at the other end. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch which runs power back to the fan where it is spliced to both the black and blue fan wires.
The black cable wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch and spliced to the black and blue wires at the fan at the other end. Clockwise rotation will pull air up to the ceiling, disturbing the warm air collected there and circulating it throughout the room to warm things up.
The red wire is spliced to the output on the dimmer and to the blue, light wire at the other end.
At the other end, the black cable wire is spliced to one of the hot dimmer wires, it doesn't matter which one. The neutral source and ground are spliced through to the white and ground connections at the fan. The ground should be spliced with a short piece of wire and connected to each device and outlet box that has a grounding terminal. The neutral from the source is spliced in the switch box with the white wire, and to the neutral wire on the ceiling fixture at the other end. The other dimmer wire is spliced to the red wire in the switch box which is spliced to the blue, light wire at the other end. You can bring them with you so that if the Associate needs to look them up it will make it a lot easier.
In these drawing the brass colored terminal represent the hot side of the device and the silver colored terminal represent the neutral.
Connect the ground to the grounding terminal in the connection box and the ground wire from the fan, if there is one. I would say that you will need to use the switch on the side of the fan to reverse the fan direction ..



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