26.12.2012

Ceiling fan without light switch youtube,hunter fan energy star ovens,how to separate bathroom fan and light switch youtube,solar fan with lighting system 48-60 - Try Out

Author: admin  //  Category: Victorian Ceiling Fans


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I still have pull chains to turn on and off the light, and a chain to reverse the direction.
I may replace the pullchain in the future, but for the time being, is it possible to shut off the fan somehow without the chain? To control the fan speed without the switch, you'd have to apply current to the proper wires to get the speed you want. If even a small bit of the chain is left, you may be able to pull it using needle nose pliers.
If you like to tinker; and have a bit of knowledge about this stuff, you could take the fan apart and replace the switch.
The important detail is that this is likely a mechanical switch that is physically in the high speed position, not an electronic switch that can be reset. Short of replacing the switch or opening up the fan to disconnect the switch, there's not much you can do to reset it since it's a mechanical switch, not an electronic one. If there are any exposed wired or apparent electrical parts exposed, test with a non-contact tester to make sure they are not live (hot). You will probably have to remove (lower) the light fixture section of the unit to get to the fan section. Check to see if the switch for your brand is available from either a home center store or the manufacturer. Most newer fans have brackets that allow them to hang from the mounting bracket on the ceiling while you wire them up, so they no longer require two people to install.
Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged ceiling-fan or ask your own question.
I believe the configuration in the image below is what I need in order to power a ceiling fan and recessed lights on two separate switches out of a two gang box using the existing cables. However, what is different from the diagram is that I have a 2 way cable in the switch box that leads to all the outlets in the room, so it will need constant power. If you can run a new power line to one of the outlets, it may be an easy way to re-use the rest of the existing wiring without having to break walls open too much (less than if you run a new wire from the switch to the ceiling boxes). You might need to cut an access hole below one of the outlets and then fish a line from underneath, or cut a hole on the wall opposite the outlet, or if you're really lucky, one backs onto an unfinished space.
Try to avoid opening exterior walls, as they have insulation and vapour barrier that makes repair much more complicated. If you can get at the wire from the opposite side in a closet or similar discreet space, that can make things much easier. Unless you painted very recently and have leftover paint, even color matching you probably won't get it 100%, and if you just paint over a spot on the wall, this is usually noticeable. If outlets cross doorways, there's a good chance the wire runs under the floor, and if it's an unfinished ceiling underneath, you can tap into the wire there. You might also be able to get at the wire in the wall, but this may be a bit of a guessing game.


Additional question: Can I go into the ceiling access, pull the existing hot cable from the fan box and put it into a junction box that splices two new hot cables: one for the fan box and one to my accessible outlet? With the setup you have you cannot achieve branching non-switched wiring off to the outlets. Per code, the white wire needs to be marked (usually a band of black or colored tape) at both ends, since it's not neutral. Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged electrical wiring or ask your own question. Is it plagiarism to copy from the textbook and referencing properly but not using quotation marks? Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. 1- these are the only 3 things not operating properly? 2- Could you explain the switchbox a bit more?
Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions. You can change out the two receptacles to make them permanently hot and convert the white wire going to the switch box to a neutral. The electrical code requires a switched receptacle or a lighting outlet in habitable rooms.
Would installing a ceiling fan with a light kit in the same room as the previously switched receptacle keep the room code compliant? Your setup is probably similar to this diagram which shows the top of the receptacle controlled by the switch and the bottom of the receptacle always hot. Here is what you need to do to have the entire receptacle always hot and the switch control your fan. JV Electricals - Fibre Blade Ceiling Fans Bangalore, wingless fans, finless fans, fan without blades, elelctrical fan without wings, Fan Dealers Bangalore, Ceiling Fans Bangalore, Electrical Fans Bangalore, Ceiling fans Crompton greaves, Fan Dealers Orient Bangalore, Fan Dealers Havells Bangalore, Fan Dealers Bajaj Bangalore, Fan Dealers Khaitan Bangalore, Fans in bangalore, Fan Dealers Almonard . Twin and earth wiring is required for all installations except those using a double wall control. However, If in doubt with any part of the installation procedure then please contact a qualified electrician.
Since this is likely a mechanical device (not electronic), the only way to change the setting is to physically move the switch to another position. If the fan is connected directly to power (not controlled by a wall switch), you'll probably want to shut off the breaker to stop the fan while you do this (so you don't loose your head). It's probably a good idea to have the old switch in-hand, when you make your trip to the hardware store for a replacement.
Get a replacement that's designed to handle your load, make sure you wire it up identically, and be sure to follow all the safety steps (shutoff the power, verify with a non-contact tester, don't leave any exposed junctions, etc). There is often a small bolt or nut in the center bottom or small screws holding the bottom cover on. If you do, you may be able to remove the remaining piece and replace it with a new chain or attach a new chain to the stub of the old.


However, getting a bit older, less balanced and slightly weaker in the upper body, I HATE to carry that motor and housing up the ladder to the hook. Instead, if you paint the whole wall, the fact that adjacent walls (around corners) don't match 100% is not noticeable. Keep in mind all j-boxes must be permanently accessible, so you may need to add an outlet or blank faceplate to make this work. The space is a converted garage room and there is access above, but I can't feed a new wire to the switch box. You would need to pull another cable with more wires between the ceiling power source box and the dual wall switch box. It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult. I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around. Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know. The receptacle would need some wiring changes to make the current switch loop into a power feed. Don't forget to label the wires when you remove the broken switch, you won't remember where they all went. A bonus is many come with hand-held remote controls for fan speed, light dimming, etc., which I know your mother-in-law will appreciate. The lift-to-hook once I am at the top of the ladder is where I need backup (and it is always good to have a tool-hander-upper). Is should be able to run a two way cable to one of the outlets though, and per gregmac's variation I will cap the existing two way cable in the switch box.
As a minimum you will have to send a neutral wire in addition to the three you already have in place. Black goes to the top screw on the switch, white to the bottom and the ground to the other side of the bottom.
I can live without the outlets being controlled by the switch if the switch controls the fan. So that means either running a 4-wire plus GND cable or else running an additional 2-wire plus GND. In the latter case the added two wire cable could be deployed to route Hot and Neutral to the switch box and stop using the confusing white wire for this purpose as depicted in your picture. I have used the switches in all the other rooms for my new ceiling fans but the were wired differently.




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