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I’ve been using a Veleno Designs E-Series (3 mode, neutral white) tower module on a Vital Gear FB1 body as my EDC. The Malkoff Devices MDC HA LMH Li-ion Rechargeable Head has a light orange peel reflector designed by Don McLeish. Malkoff Devices designs and manufactures high powered LED flashlight modifications for Maglites and Surefire flashlights and their own Malkoff LED flashlights. Multi-mode flashlights are more useful for me so I decided to use an 8xAMC7135 (2.8A) multi-mode driver and a Cree XM-L2 (U2 bin).
To get the 8xAMC7135 driver board to fit in the Malkoff brass heatsink, I had to slightly reduce the 17mm diameter of the circuit board. To solder the LED to the MCPCB, I used a lead solder paste with a SMD hot air rework solder station at 220 degrees C for 40 seconds. When I photographed the illuminated bulb, I set the camera’s color balance for daylight, so the yellow color of the light reflecting off the wall in the background is a good representation of what it looks like to the human eye. To get 25,000 hours with a 60 watt incandescent bulb, you would need 25 of them, at a cost of $36.50. People who want to keep using incandescent bulbs may not be able to do the math or maybe they’re using them to keep their popcorn warm. The Surefire Z32 bezel was used on the Surefire M2 flashlight and currently on the Surefire M951XM07 Millennium® Universal WeaponLight.
The Surefire 6P, is to me, what a flashlight looks like (though I have moved on from incandescent lamp assemblies to LED drop-ins, such as this modified Malkoff M61). I’ve been using a Surefire E series bezel and a Veleno Designs E-Series tower module with a Vital Gear FB-1. Valiant Concepts makes the VME Malkoff Valiant Concepts Head that fits on an E series body and enables the use of a Malkoff Devices M series dropin lamp assembly. I bought a used Surefire KX2 head for my Surefire E2D, so I had a spare Veleno Designs E-Series tower module in search of a flashlight. When I read that Surefire was discontinuing the incandescent lamp Surefire E2D flashlight, I found a good deal on a new one. I also wanted to install a McClicky switch because I like the lower pressure it requires to switch on.
With the E2D, I thought I’d try the Veleno Designs Surefire E series incandescent to LED conversion three mode module. The E2E uses an incandescent lamp, the Surefire MN03 lamp assembly, with an output is 60 lumens.
I’d rather use LEDs and I found that Veleno Designs makes a good option fits in the E2E head.
Because of the work involved in putting another LED on the Veleno drop-in, I decided to try to find a deal on a Surefire KX2 LED Conversion Head. Determined to get the light I wanted, I disassembled the KX2 using a heat gun to release the ample amount of glue that Surefire used on the threads to hold the head together.
One of the very first lighting changes I made to my house was to replace the 13 Watt GE Helical CFLs on the front of my garage with the new Cree 9 Watt Daylight LED Light Bulbs. The name Cree is synonymous with high quality LED lighting, they build the diodes found in most high-end flashlights, and light engines for most professional stage lighting. Long story short, I stopped by Home Depot, who happens to be the exclusive retailer of Cree bulbs, and picked some up.
Here is another of the tactical lights running with two 123?s batteries, it is made by Aimshot and is warrantee to be waterproof to a 100 meters. The reflector is smooth on my unit, but is small in relation to others reflector such as the G-2-6P or even the Streamlight TL-2 or Night Fighter II, which make the beam much more flood than in the other lights. I recently tested it against my Streamlight Night Hunter II (another of the tactical two 123?s batteries lights) and with new batteries in both lights the Nova was throwing a weaker beam against my usual deer target at 26 yards. I have had this light for a couple of years, but I haven?t use it much, the claim in some catalogue that the run time is five hours is greatly exaggerated, I don?t think it will made one hour, although I have been disappointed by the performance of many new 123?s batteries lately, they seem to come with little charge on them, especially the bargain batteries that are made in China for one of the web battery places. I recommend that you run your tactical lights or flashlights with good quality batteries such as the Surefire or Duracell brands. The light is well made, with double O rings in tail cap and head and a rubber cover in main body and tail cap, but with a metal anodized head.
I don?t have a way to test the claims of been waterproof to 100 meters, but I dunked it in my big water glass for several hours, without getting any water inside. The light sold for several years for $50 USD but I have seen it recently dropped to around $30 which is more in tone with other quality lights such as the Surefire G-2.
The tail cap is not a clicky, and that is a good thing, it is the usual turn it to ?on? or press for momentary.
I like the light but I think that the Streamlight Night Hunter II or the TL II are better lights overall, I will even prefer a Scorpion or a G-2 in that price range. A while ago I bought one of the Deal Extreme new Cree lamps advertised to fit the Surefires for two cells, like in the 6P, G-2, Z-2, C-2 etc.
I guess I can fix the gap by instating an O ring, a trip to Home Depot to get one in necessary. Inside the house, at short range the output is considerable; I think that at the short distance inside the house I will prefer it over the P-60 lamp. Outside, the P-60 lamp is giving me more range and more picture detail up to maybe 45 yards, at my usual range of 26 yards (where I test all my lights against the deer head) I will say that they both go head to head, as you may see in the pictures in the general illumination department, BUT the definition of the foliage to the right of the tree (at the height of the posted sign) is better with the P-60 incandescent lamp. Many G-2?s gets to be mounted in carbines like the M-4 or M-16, I have people ask me if I will use the Deal Extreme lamp in them, (As they suppose to resist recoil better), well, no, I still prefer the P-60 lamp for the extended range and even better the P-61 lamp for the increase brightness and coverage with their 120 lumens.
Any way it is not recoil that break filament lamps, but it is the vibration of many rounds while the filament is very hot, that explain why during the 1920?s and to the 60?s tigers were hunted from machans using regular 2 and 3 D flashlights clamped to the barrel in powerful rifles like the 470 Nitro Express, without any trouble with the bulbs. After all the filament is very lightweight and the inertia is just not there, because the lack of real weight.
The problem with the Deal Extreme modules is that none of them use thermal regulation to reduce the drive current to the LED to control the temperature of the lamp.
The Nitrolon body of the G2 acts as an insulator rather than a conductor, so that heat just stays inside of the lamp and cooks the LED. Since they did this with a light that uses a thermally regulated module, it makes you wonder just how incredibly hot the non-thermally regulated modules actually get.
Not long ago to get magnum illumination out of a flashlight, I had to drop down the tube, six of the big D batteries on a Maglite 6 D size. That the light weights three pounds one ounce and measures 19 ? inches was just incidental to the use if I wanted to get a really good, powerful beam.
Later Surefire come up with small lights that could take two and three or four small but powerful 123?s camera batteries, some of those lights, come up and surpass the 181 lumens of the big Maglite 6 D.
I am thinking now of the specialty tactical light than Surefire have as the M-4 that uses four of the 123 batteries for 225 lumens for one hour run time. Incidentally the M-4 is not precisely inexpensive, costing $330 USD from Surefire or their dealers. The only problem is that the little 3 volts batteries are quite expensive, and using four of them for one hour run time can cost you $8.00 for that hour.
And that is if you buy them at discount over the Internet, when purchased in the camera stores (such as Wal Mart) the little 3 volts batteries cost as much as $4 each.
So a light of the size of the Surefire M-4 (9 inches long) was highly desired if it could be made to run on rechargeable batteries, to avoid the big battery expense of the M-4. This little light makes 220 lumens for 90 minutes of run time, and then recharges its two batteries with a fast charger that is included, in three and a half hours.
The Lithium Ion batteries can be recharged up to 1,000 times and when they eventually get depleted can be replaced with $30.
Yes the little rechargeable Bear Cub is characterized for an intense white light, and a run time of 90 minutes, all in a small size that can fit in any glove compartment or trench coat pocket.
I used a new Battery Station 123 and in the high 200 mode it lasted for ? an hour, and it gets hot very quick. Due to the small head, the flood effect is quite pronounced and the throw is poor for a 200 lumen light, but I was expecting it to be that way based on experience with other small headed keychain-type lights. Two hundred lumens in a two inch head of an incandescent will put a level of illumination that is tremendous in comparison to the small head of the Rebel 200 lumens. If I consider the low price I like the little light in general, excepting the side switch that can be a little hard to find in a rush, as it is kind of recessed in the head of the light and difficult to find by feel alone. After trying to like the clip for a couple of weeks, I ended throwing it away, it is too flimsy and I will not trust it to keep the light in my pocket. And here is a beam shot with the 220 lumens Bear Cub rechargeable that sport a two inch head and have a range of 150 yards.

The LED mode will last for 28 hours (I have to take the word of the manufacturer for this, because I haven?t done a run time that long). Due to the micro-faceted reflector, the flood with the three LED?s or the Xenon bulb is ample. I have used it mostly with the three LED?s and I have come to believe the run time of 28 hours claimed by the manufacturer because after two years of sporadic use the light is still going in the same battery set.
The switch is on top of the head, as this is not a ?tactical? light I found the switch convenient, so does my wife, that have the same model but in Titanium finish. The beam shot at 26 yards using the xenon bulb doesn?t look impressive at all, and that is because the reflector is designed for extreme flood, but that is okay, this light is mostly for using indoors, walking the dog or for hiking a trail at the most.
In this picture one of my Twin Task have a Velcro tape, this match with the Velcro in my baseball cap, and allow me to have my hands free for doing any chores while directing the illumination where I am looking. The street price is about $32 USD and I think that it is quite reasonable for the quality of the product, based on my experience with it I can recommend it highly.
The Black Bear is made on the ?host? of the Maglite 2 D., which is one of the advantages of the Black Bear System, as when after hard use, if the light is scratched or dented, a new host can be replaced inexpensively available almost anywhere, and the transfer of parts takes only ten minutes of the owner?s time. The only difference between the Borealis and the Black Bear 720 (beside the shorter length) is in the shorter Rolls Royce battery carrier (for six batteries) and the reduced voltage super-bulbs.
The light has a 40 minutes run time and outputs an incredible 720 lumens, all this with rechargeable Nimh in the Rolls Royce battery carrier. It is almost impossible to talk about the Black Bear 720 without mention its closest competition, the Surefire M-6. The Surefire M-6 is well known in the tactical circles as the light used by SWAT teams and Special Forces, This light that cost close to $400, is 500 lumens for a run time of 20 minutes, running on six disposable 123 batteries, yes that is right! Clearly, the Black Bear 720 lumens is a better value as the batteries are rechargeable, with a life of 1.000 recharges and the run time is of 40 minutes.
While the M-6 has only one choice in reflector finish, the light stippled, the BB720 has a choice of four reflector finish, to customize the light to your work. The shorter size of the Black Bear 720 makes it a natural to store in the car, inside the glove compartment, and it is not too heavy to be carried in a trench coat or overcoat pocket and the power in lumens compares to a car?s headlights or to a one and a half million candlepower spotlight, really an amazing performance for a light of this size. Like its bigger sister the Borealis 1050 lumens, (12 ? inches 28 oz.), the BB720 is hand made one by one on a semi-custom basis, using state of the art components and lots of hand labor to reduce internal resistance to make the white light that is the trademark of the Black Bear Flashlights. The light output is really impressive for an LED; it even has a very decent throw that is sufficient for tactical use inside and even outside. I have tested it against other tactical lights like my Surefire Centurion III with P-91 lamp (200 lumens) and it really compares very well, to the point that I will carry from now on the new T-1 instead of the Centurion III.
My incandescent rechargeable Bear Cub light at 220 lumens can illuminate the hydrant and the group of trees at 111 yards and go beyond, It is well known that incandescent provide longer range and better definition.
The T-1 has a massive head with a wall of 4.5 mm thickness, and the light is quite heavy in comparison with other tactical lights.
You may know that the LED?s unlikely incandescent that throw the heat forward as infrared, accumulate heat near the source of light, that is why they have to have a heavy heat sink, this heavy head act as one.
Otherwise the heat will reach the batteries and when a certain point is reached the internal protection that the 123?s batteries have, will cut down the juice, and stop the light. So, they advertise the light as been built like a tank, but now you know what is the real reason behind all that metal at the head. The light is say to be waterproof and it passed my four hour test in a BIG glass filled with water. I love the switch; it is just have the right feel for the momentary action, so good that it can be strobe as fast as you want if that is your cup of tea for tactical encounters.
The tail cap of the switch has a hole for a lanyard that is included and you can stand the light on its tail cap on a flat surface for a candle mode. Inside the package I found a spare button and O rings, I applaud that move by Fenix, and it is appreciated as some of us use the lights hard. The T-1 comes with a holster, which is okay, but it also have a sturdy clip that grasp my belt very well and lower the profile on your waist in comparison with the holster. Anyway I think that the Fenix T-1 is one of the better lights that have hit the market lately, it is very rugged and is very well made, and well worth the price of 76 USD that I have paid for it.
Yes, I know, this is a very mild test, but in winter all the pools are closed and the pond is frozen.
By turning the bezel you can access the turbo mode at 205 lumens, and pressing again softly on the switch will put you in the strobe mode of 205 lumens.
As like the other models of Fenix lights, the P3D also can be used in candle mode, as the rubber button doesn?t protrude like in other lights that are uses as tactical. As the LED?s lack the infrared spectrum of light, the heat is concentrated near the head, instead of been thrown forward as the incandescent lights do.
This light is so handy that it has replaced my Surefire E2e that was the light I used to wear for years when I went out of the house. Carrying now the two Fenixes, I will have light for a long time if I am involved in a situation that I need to use them. The P3D can be used as a tactical light if the distance involved is short, like in an interior house situation. To illustrate the point I use another light that is also in the 220 lumens bracket, the Bear Cub incandescent, 220 lumens for 90 minutes. Also notice to the right of the subject how the incandescent light reveals leaves that are not shown in the beam of the Fenix. For that reason I think that the 26 yards to the fence is the maximum range of the little reflector of the P3D.
The light has to be powerful enough to blind the person, giving you time to appreciate if the intruder is armed and with what, and if you are justified to shoot the intruder. Taking into consideration all these precautions, so as not to shoot an innocent person that could be in your house as a guest of your son or daughter, my choice is a big powerful light (like the Borealis 1050 lumens) carried in the off hand and NOT lined up with the muzzle of my gun at all, just because I don?t want to cover an innocent person with my muzzle. That is why I am not big fan of the tactical rail pistol lights, and when I clear my house (Had to do it twice in the last three months) my muzzle is looking down at the floor. I much prefer the use of the laser if any shooting is to be done, as it avoids the tunnel vision that occurs when you place your gun in front of your face in a low light situation. I have practiced with the laser grips for the last two years, and the speed of my response has improved by 33%. Coming back to the P3D, it has a strobe effect in the 205 lumens setting; it will not do anything different to my eyes than the actual steady 205 lumens light can do. When Malkoff Devices came out with a three mode, RCR123 compatible head, I thought it would be a better light for me than the Veleno setup. The beam profile is similar to the Malkoff M31 and M61 drop-ins with a large center hotspot and nice spill. Their products are so well designed and constructed that they are coveted by professionals that depend on their flashlights and enthusiasts that appreciate their quality. After applying some Artic Silver 5 CPU Thermal Compound to the bottom of MCPCB, I glued it to the heatsink with JB Weld.
Instead of wrapping the drop-in with copper tape, I used some thin aluminum stock as a shim.
The main design function of the bezel is to isolate the incandescent lamp assembly from weapon recoil shock. I wanted a brighter light, so I bought a Vital Gear E to C adapter that enables the use of a P60 style dropin.
The VME head includes a lens for dropins that don’t have one but I use it with a Malkoff M60, which has a protective lens as part of the optic.
I found a Vital Gear FB1, which is a single cell, Surefire E-Series compatible body with a forward clicky switch.
The Veleno Designs module is about 140 lumens on the brightest mode and it has a good low mode. I liked the ability of the E2D to tailstand, that is, on a flat surface, the flashlight will stand vertically on the tailcap. In trying to find a way of avoiding buying a tap, I realized if I removed some of the threads on the McClicky switch to reduce the diameter of the front end, I could insert it from the rear of the tailcap housing.
I didn’t realize until I received it how much smaller it is in comparison to the Surefire 6P flashlights that I have.
The Veleno Designs E Series LED drop-in is machined from brass, has great heat sinking and uses a Cree XP-G LED. I unsoldered the leads from the LED board, removed the two hex screws holding the LED board to the drop-in and pushed the LED board out.
I reassembled the KX2 using Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound underneath the LED board and when I first tried the light the hot spot was off center.

The fit is not exactly perfect, as you can see in the picture, the lamp is a little longer than necessary and the bezel doesn?t close all the way, like in the green G-2. It seems that one or two shots, will not affect the filament, no matter how much the recoil is. It has a sensor under the LED to cut the current back when the LED gets hot, in order to prolong life.
Actually, I don't have to wonder since I tested a Deal Extreme 4068 module in a G2 and after just a few minutes it was too hot to hold in my hand, and the tint of the beam had shifted blue.
I was very curious to try one of the Rebel 200 lumen new Luxeons and I think this is the best way to try one inexpensively. I don?t know if the poor run time is the fault of the battery that was under-charged, or if the light will perform the same with others 123?s, but that is the results I got. So we are in a time when we can no longer make an assessment based on the lumens figure, that is when the comparison pictures that I have been taken show the value, as the viewer can see for himself how the different lights with the same value in lumens output perform in real life. I will have preferred a tail switch such as I have in my Fenix L1D, but it is a tremendous price difference between the two lights, so all things considered I think that the Ultra fire is a great value, and I can put up with the side switch. The light is regular anodized, but had stood well the use in my pocket with keys and coins. I have been using a couple of them for two years, quite often (not exclusively because I own other lights also for everyday use).
The Twin Task uses for power two lithium 3 volts, 123 batteries, and it have two light sources, one xenon bulb of 72 lumens and three Nichia 5mm LED?s of about 7 lumens each. I have lend my second light to my hunting pal Frank, that left it on the three stand for a week, on returning the light it was just the same in finish having weathered the week without any mark or discoloration. It has all the same high quality state of the art components as its bigger sister the Borealis 1050 lumens. Wildlife officers doing deer census in the field will want the long throw capabilities of the Smooth (mirror finish) reflector, same as firefighters that need to punch a hole in the smoke. The package says that the range is 200 yards, which is an exaggeration, and I can?t see any illumination at a target placed 200 yards away. But it is the price you pay for running an LED at 225 lumens, as all this mass of metal is needed to divert the heat away from the batteries. It is permanent on by clicking it, and can be unscrewed to put it in safe mode for when you carry the light in luggage or back pack.
What you cannot do is use this light with the Roger-Surefire or cigar grip because the rubber button is recessed flat with the tail cap.
The only thing about the clip is that it rubs on the body of the light when you want to access the low mode of 60 lumens. The light gets hot very quickly in this mode and the excessive heat can damage the Cree emitter if used for a long time. I also have another light on my key chain, another Fenix product, the L1D, a one AA battery light with multiple levels. However, if the light were to be used to illuminate somebody in the back yard, the brightness of the 205 lumens at say, my usual distance of 26 yards, will be not be sufficient to blind a person as the tactical lights are supposed to do.
This is the famous lack of definition that I often talk in my posts; it can be translated as lack of detail from the LED beam. Bigger reflectors like in the Fenix T-1 with the same Cree Q,5 can reach as far as 50 yards. This last step of indentifying the armament requires more time than you realize, as it is easy to (after being woken from a sound sleep) see a gun in the guy?s hands when he is actually holding a cell phone.
This drop-in output 180 lumens driven at 1000 mA with a 2-3 hour runtime with two CR123 batteries. I haven’t done any runtime tests but after 10 minutes on 100% power, the C2 bezel gets warm but not hot. Last month, a Cree LED light bulb was introduced that replaces a 60 watt incandescent bulb. Since the shock mechanism reduces the heat dissipation ability of the bezel, I use aluminum shims or copper tape around the LED drop-ins to help dissipate the heat through the flashlight body. I like the current design of the Surefire Z32 bezel as opposed to the original design with the vented ribs. When I screwed on a Surefire Z44 bezel, it made the front end of the light a little larger than I wanted.
The modded switch stops in the correct position against a rim that was already machined in the tailcap and is held by the stock retaining ring. I ordered a 3 mode cool white model and while the output was great, the tint was a little green. I centered the LED and because the threads on the bezel that holds the Surefire Total Internal Reflection (TIR) lens were no longer glued, I was able to focus the beam to a perfect hot spot. These bulbs turn on instantly, are dimmable, a have very high CRI (90 or greater) ratings powered by the Cree TrueWhite® technology.
I use to be able to make out the driveway at night, now the driveway is fully illuminated and part of the street is too.
It reduces their efficiency, shortens their lives, and can cause the tint of the light output to change.
They'll work alright for short bursts in the G2 (I'd say a max of 5 minutes) but extended use is not recommended outside of an emergency.
Well, the G2L has only been out for a few months now and Surefire has already made a change in it. So, I didn?t have any problem dunking it for a couple of hours in a big glass of water to see if it really was waterproof, and yes, it was, so far at this depth. Others can use the Orange Peel for a little more flood, and the law enforcement officers will like the capabilities of illuminating an entire warehouse with the extra flood provided by the Light Stippled and Medium Stippled reflectors.
My regular testing for long distance is a hydrant at 88 yards and a group of trees at 111 yards. We will see how good is the hard anodized type III as the clip is rubbing against the light with a good pressure and I suspect will be soon marked by a line.
If you need a light that can be used without damaging the LED in the higher setting for a long run, you have to purchase the Fenix T-1 that has a massive heat sink and bulky head that will draw the heat away from the Cree.
I know because I tested it on myself at that distance, and the blinding effect was not present. A word of advice, don?t try to make the little, svelte P3D do the job that is designed for the T-1, just confine the P3D for the house and other places with short range. The MDC is noticeably brighter than the Veleno head, and has a cooler (6200K) Cree XP-G2 LED. I replaced a 15W warm compact fluorescent bulb (CFL) that was in a table lamp with the Cree LED Light Bulb. That’s what I did with my Surefire E2E (KX2) but I managed to buy it on eBay for considerably less. I sanded the inner body of the flashlight with emery cloth so it accommodates a protected 17670 Li-Ion battery.
The manufacturer said that most people order a neutral tint so they don’t have that problem. I found one review that said they were the best, and I already knew they were selling for the lowest price at roughly $10 per bulb. After all what you should try to achieve if using a light in a tactical situation, is to indentify the subject as an intruder (it could be a member of you family or a friend of your son or daughter).
With the modded M60, the flashlight is a lot brighter and also throws further than the Veleno Designs module. Before arriving at this point, it may have been better to consider the (now discontinued) $189 (USD) E2D LED Defender® Dual-Output LED flashlight. I can see that the outline of the hydrant is there (The same with the Centurion III) but I can?t make out any detail or see it sharply. If the target were a human at that distance, I will be not able to tell if it is a bad guy with a gun or a nun with a cell phone.

Streamlight scorpion x tactical flashlight zippy
Led tactical headlamp instructions


  1. AFTOSH_QAFAR_088:
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