What Is A Wood Lathe Chuck,free woodworking plans to build an easel,Rockwell Wood Lathe Craigslist - Plans On 2016

27.09.2015, admin  
Category: Bookshelf Woodworking Plans

When first introduced, four-jaw chucks were viewed by many as a luxury just for professional turners.
With prices ranging from about $35 up to $280, you're probably asking yourself why you should buy a four-jaw chuck for your lathe. I need a 4jaw chuck for a Sears Craftsman wood lathe model# 351.217150 where can I find one.
Having a good quality chuck for your lathe will exponentially increase your bowl turning output. Chucks for holding wood on a lathe have been around for many years, and the designs of the new models are much improved.
The author has an Axminster chuck for her lathe, which has served her well through spindle and bowl creations as well as returnings.
Some chucks come with jaws as part of the package, while others require the purchase of jaws separately. Chuck manufacturers make chucks to fit almost any lathe’s spindle size and thread count, so buy the chuck that fits the spindle of your lathe. Chucks range in price from about $170 for the basic body and one set of jaws to about $300 for a chuck body and several sets of jaws.
You will need to turn either a recess or a tenon on your bowl blank so the chuck will have something to grab into or onto. For this article, I am rough-turning a bowl blank from green wood, and the bottom of the bowl is next to the bark-edge of the bowl blank. Measure out the opening of the chuck's jaws to determine the maximum diameterof your tenons.


I mount the wood between centers so the bottom of the bowl is at the tailstock of my lathe, making it easier to turn the tenon.
To begin with, set your lathe’s speed at a slow RPM, somewhere less than 800 RPM, just to make sure the bowl blank is mounted safely and balanced properly.
Put the bowl blank between the spindles and begin forming the tenon, don't open the chuck beyond maximum capacity or the jaws won't seat correctly.
The jaws of your chuck should not stick out too much from the body of the chuck (somewhat common with older model chucks). Mount the bowl into the chuck and then tighten the jaws to ensure that it is secure for turning. Remove the bowl blank, attach your chuck to the lathe, then mount the bowl blank onto the chuck.
Start the lathe at a slow speed, just to make sure the bowl blank is centered properly in your chuck. Drying times vary with the season, the type of wood, and how wet or dry the wood was to begin with. While chucks are certainly not “must-have” accessories, they are handy for a variety of holding options, including bowl turning.
One method is not necessarily better than the other; however, when you understand the usefulness of both, you can choose the one best suited for what you want to turn. Once the bowl is roughed out, it can be set aside to dry, then re-chucked later for finish turning. Make sure the wood is securely fastened between centers, as some lathe’s tailstocks tend to creep backwards instead of tightening.


The tenon should be as large a diameter as possible yet still fit into the jaws of your chuck: the larger the tenon, the more holding power. Your bowl blank will be much more likely to fly out of the chuck when roughing out the inside. I like to refine the outside of the bowl a bit, but I always leave sufficient wood on the shoulder next to the tenon.
You can leave whatever wall thickness you want, but you might enjoy trying to make a paper-thin bowl from very wet wood. I now primarily use it for holding cylinders for spindle turning, but occasionally use it to attach a bowl to the lathe. This process takes very little time, so you can process a large amount of wood before losing it to decay. Screw chucks are an accessory for chucks, and they are also available as dedicated screw-center chucks or screw-center faceplates.
I remove the bark before I put the wood onto the lathe as it tends to fly off in huge sections during the turning process.



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