Varnish On Wood,How To Make A Queen Size Loft Bed Frame,corner shelving unit free woodworking plans - .

19.09.2014, admin  
Category: Woodworking Clock Projects

For this reason, you may be considering adding a varnish to it in order to further accentuate its appearance and otherwise add another level of protection. One of the main things you need to think about when it comes to considering a varnish is how you will apply it. The truth, however, is that this is a really easy attitude for making a big problem where your varnish is involved. Lastly, you need to make sure you know what type of material you’re actually applying your varnish to.
While it isn’t necessary to add a wood sealant, it will help to improve the finish and protect the wood from stains.
For a truly hard wearing finish I would use a polyurethane varnish but it will darken the wood a bit also make sure it is the old fashioned polyurethane that needs white spirits to clean the brush. Amongst other things, it can absorb the light scratches that wood often comes up against and really can’t do much about. Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter) then the colour is kept very natural indeed, it’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. If the oak needs to be made darker then hard wax oil is ideal because it colours and protects the wood in the same application. The right product for your wood can make a big difference in the longevity of the wood, irrespective if it is wooden windows, doors or a wooden deck. Most people are under the false impression that because you can go pick up at varnish at just about any home improvement or department store, it will be naturally easy to apply to your oak furniture.

I would not use an acrylic varnish as these tend to go a slightly milky colour which would not suit oak. While oak is certainly a hearty wood, that doesn’t mean it’s capable of fending off every possible attack.
Minor damage that can otherwise hurt oak won’t stand a chance when you have a quality varnish applied. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
There is no standard that can be applied to all products, as often appearance, porosity, durability and cost must be taken into account before deciding on the most suitable product meeting most needs and falling within budget constraints as certain wood-coatings (like Rubbol) cost over R1000 for 5 litre.
Obviously, you don’t want to apply varnish on your wood furniture anywhere but out in the garage (keeping in mind anything that could cause a fire) or elsewhere where you don’t need to worry about some minor spills. Varnishes often form a hard protective coating which cannot contract and expand with temperature fluctuations and often crack or peel, which makes the maintenance that more difficult and costly. Sanding, planing, and scraping can help eliminate surface imperfections by softening and smoothing the wood. So you want to keep an eye on it until it soaks into the wood, in case something ignites it. As a rule of thumb, preservatives should not be coated over varnishes and vice versa, but with the right preparation (often stripping the wood bare), there are exceptions. Processes to alter the wood’s color and aesthetic are often applied before the finish, including staining and bleaching.

The big advantage with the oil finishes is it is easy to touch up any marks whereas if you damage a varnished finish you really ought to re do the whole top.
With wood there can be several factors to take into account before deciding on a specific product. However, the most basic is either varnish which tend to form a coating on top of the wood, or a preservative, which penetrates and nourishes the wood and basically sits in the wood. Allow the furniture to dry for 24 hours before applying a second coat of varnish using the same technique.
Preservatives (normally oil-based) penetrate the wood and although not normally forming a hard protective coating, it nourishes the wood and often maintenance is a lot easier and cost effective than with varnish. In a later article I will go more into detail of the treatment of problem natural wooden surfaces.
Conversion varnish, however, can only be applied in shops using specialized spray equipment and is hard to remove. Additionally, it works well on products that are exposed to UV and is safer to use than traditional polyurethane varnish. To remove oil finishes, the substrate must be sanded down because oil absorbs into the wood.

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