Making Wooden Axe Handles,Woodworking Hand Tool Catalogs,woodworking hardware and tools - Plans On 2016

27.10.2014, admin  
Category: Woodworking Clock Projects

Tags: ash, axe handle, conservation, forest management, forestry, henry david thoreau, hickory, hophornbeam, northern woodlands, ross morgan, spokeshave, sugar maple, trees, yellow birch. May 23, 2013I’ve been wanting to make my own axe handle for a while and your instructions look good and simple to follow. Oct 21, 2013I’d like to make handles for my tools,hammer,axes and a custom handle for hatches. Jul 13, 2014I was hoping you might have some ideas on how to store multiple handles for extended periods of time. Aug 04, 2014I think I get it, but in step two you comment about keeping the same annular ring in the center of the handle…. Mar 13, 2015I have found that rubbing vaseline into the end cuts prevents checking and cracking in green handles.
What you are aiming for is to cut out a bit of wood that looks like this, just a bit bigger all round than the axe of the axe. Next if you have another axe handle you like draw round it on the side profile, or just draw a shape you like.
So now we have a rectangular section which is about 10-15% over size at the head and just a little over size on the handle. The one guiding principle to keep in mind when making an axe handle is to keep the same annual growth ring in the center of the entire handle, from where it will enter the axe head to the fawn’s foot.


The outline and the center lines on the annual ring may have to be redrawn as the draw knife and spoke shave remove more wood.
Northern Woodlands assumes no responsibility or liability arising from forum postings and reserves the right to edit all postings. The perfect wood is nice straight grain ash fairly fast grown, if it gets more than 6-8 rings per inch it is much more brittle, 4-6 rings per inch is perfect. In that case he was addressing the scarcity of affordable new or good-quality second-hand broad axes. The wood should be green and straight-grained, without knots, about 10 to 16 inches in diameter.
That annual ring will be split by the wedge in the final step, and it will run in the same plane as the swing of the axe, providing the handle with strength and shock-absorption.
With the wooden wedge in place, apply a wood-swelling fluid such as Chair-Loc or Wonderlok’Em Tite Chairs, available at most hardware stores. I often see it suggested that this orientation with the axe head tangential to the growth rings is good and that radial is bad. The other old head would make a perfect alternative to a small forest axe for someone on a budget.
All the splitting, hewing, shaving, and carving are done to provide an appropriately sized handle while holding to this principle.


The area of the handle that fits into the eye of the axe head is kept as an oversized rectangle of wood; the shaft is shaped into an oblong profile that has the ratio of one to two, thickness to width. Sawing provides more control, but splitting can work well if the wood is clamped tightly to limit the depth of the split. All you need is an axe, a drawknife, a spoke shave, a rasp, and a sharp knife with a flat bevel. Handles used for shaping work are 19 to 22 inches, camp axes carried on trips are 20 to 26 inches, and those for chopping and splitting are 28 to 31 inches. When dry, the handle can be further finished by sanding, scraping with a piece of broken glass, or smoothing with a spokeshave. In my experience ash is fine either way I more normally end up using ti the other way just because when I split the wood out that ends up closest to the shape I want.
The fawn’s foot can be shaped with a spoke shave or rasp, but a sharp knife works best when the wood is green. Tapping the squared-off part of the fawn’s foot should pull the axe head onto the handle.



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