Gel Stain For Wood Cabinets,Homemade Wooddlathe,Dvd Stand Woodworking Plans,Pvc Loft Bed Plans Free - PDF Review

08.01.2014, admin  
Category: Yard Furniture Plans

One of the biggest projects I set out to finish this summer was staining the kitchen cabinets (taking them from golden oak to a warm mocha brown). I took on Test 3 after Mary pointed out in the comments of test 2 that the streakiness that I was still observing after 3 coats of the water-based stain by General Finishes was probably due to the consistency of the stain itself. Embarassing side note: The oak cabinet used in test 3 bubbled like waterlogged MDF after I left it outdoors to dry. Just like with test 2, I applied three coats of stain with an old sock over the course of 5 days. Shown again, the gel stain is on the left here, whereas the streaky wood stain is on the right of this photo.
One of the biggest concerns I had in tackling this project Monica’s way (light sanding, heavy stain application) was that the stain finish was going to look too opaque, too thick, gloppy, or instead of like stain, heavy like paint. On the other hand, one of the reasons I still like the product is that you can still clearly see the texture of the original oak cabinet.
I’ve already started some sanding work on my own kitchen cabinets, but if this works, it could save me a lot of time in the sanding arena.
Because I still have plenty of unused oak cabinets in the attic from when I lessened my overhead load a few years ago, I removed one the smallest cabinet doors and decided to sacrifice it for the cause so that I didn’t have to risk messing up one of the cabinets that I actually needed to reinstall.
After cleaning off the cabinet door with TSP-PF and wiping it clean with a damp cloth, I followed Monica’s tutorial closely, first sanding the door lightly (I used 120 grit sandpaper on the Craftsman Multitool). The first coat went on smoothly enough; I had to saturate the sock a little more to really get the stain in the bevels completely (a foam brush would have worked too). The piece did look like crap after the first coat, as Monica and everyone in her comments also cited, but I’m happy to say that the stain did not oversaturate in the bevels the same way that it had for me on my first test. Where stain saturation was apparently an issue, was how I used the sock to stain in the direction of the wood grain. All my Googling a few years back ~ about getting a dark, dark stain on existing wood ~ ultimately discouraged me from trying, and I went directly to paint. I, also, have over-stained the finish on a few of my windowsills that had become bleached out, and through trial and error on my part, I think that your streaky issue is coming from the thicker water based stain that the supplier sold you.
Getting to this point has required hours and hours of painful brainpower over three years, during which time I’ve asked more people than I have fingers and toes their opinion on oak, painted oak, stained oak, orange cabinets, gray cabinets, white cabinets, dirty cabinets, and beveled cabinets. Both sides of each door and the full cabinet base in the kitchen received not one, not two, but three coats of General Finishes Gel Stain in Java.
I did all of my staining bare-handed, completely without gloves, because I found it harder to get into the nooks and crannies of the door bevels with an extra obstacle and none of my rubber gloves fit tight enough to not be a nuisance. Just like with the stain, I used pieces of fine weave scrap fabric to apply the poly (actually, an old piece of bed sheet fabric that had already been once downgraded into a painters tarp worked really well). It was always in the back of our minds that if we changed the color of the base cabinets, the countertop would have to be updated as well. The kitchen island needs an update too, a project that Pete and I have been considering for a long time. I felt close to that same feeling after they had even removed for a month, and then my dog started eating paper out of the garbage, so I got haulin’. I took the same gel stain and went to down on my kitchen laminate wood floor, turning it from pinkish-beige to dark java brown.
Oops, forgot to comment that while I stained the outside, I did not touch the insides or the shelves.


Only problem is that now I’m putting on my General Finishes polyurethane top coat, it’s pulling out little streaks in my stain!
I love this look,, your kitchen turned out fabulous, and i was so inspired to do this in the house we just bought that has a honey oak kitchen (in really great shape) but i CAN’T FIND any place that will ship the java gel stain to Canada!! I wish I knew more about the kick plate area on our cabinets… they were painted and trimmed out like that when I bought the house!
You have two choices about how to accomplish this new look, either strip off the finish then apply a stain or apply a gel stain over the existing finish.
The steps needed to restain cabinets are easy to understand, but all of them are very important. It’s much easier to prepare and restain cabinets if the doors are removed and refinished in a horizontal position.
A surface free of grease, soap scum and other contaminates will help make sure your new stain and finish stick for the long haul. Use a small amount of stain and start applying an inch or so away from the last stained area. After the final coat of finish is applied allow a few days for proper curing and hardening. The thick application of multiple coats of the gel stain does not impair or inhibit the way that texture shows through, and that really helps to keep this technique desirable. The post, quite simply, demonstrates how Monica achieved an amazing oak cabinet transformation using General Finishes stain, much in the way I’ve been planning to stain my oak kitchen cabinets. Low and behold, now I needed some to use for the stain application, so I had to sacrifice a pair of my own. It’s a big day for my little merrypad as I share the happy aftermath of my kitchen staining project. I didn’t exactly want something hi-gloss shiny, and was even worried about something semi-shiny, so satin felt like the safest gradient of the poly spectrum, and closest to the natural finish that we had from the stain itself (a little shinier than matte, yet easy to wipe down when I inevitably spit out milk in a fit of laughter). The poly, unlike the stain, was water-based, but I still allowed a minimum of 24 hours between each coat. It may be something I change out in the future, but for now I think we’re going to get a little more wear out of the ones that came with the house. I DO think that staining the cabinets would give the kitchen an overall great, updated look (especially with the tile and granite you speak of).
After I used the poly and it dried completely, I did go back over the most noticeable places with a rag with the STAIN on it again.
Simple answer to your question about using the Gel Topcoat: I didn’t know it existed!
It took me a couple of practice runs before I felt comfortable restaining cabinets using this method. The finished product is really smooth, the bevels in the wood appear to have taken the stain evenly (a problem I cited during my report of test 1), and up close, the cabinets look good. I put in painstaking effort to keep them looking semi- DIY done cabinets, rather than commercial bought ones. The real trick, as you will also see on other gel stain tutorials, is that you must leave a thin coating of the stain on the surface instead of expecting it to absorb immediately. I didn’t let polyurethaning drag on quite in the same way as staining had, and six coats (three on one side of the cabinets, three on the other) were completed 7 days after returning from Morocco.


We had planned to sell the older models and replace them with a matching set once we refinished the cabinets, but the black finish on the dishwasher, stove, and microwave blends in really nicely and so our priorities have changed. What we have noticed, however, is that in some of the stain on the inset panels the corners have cracked a little bit, like you might expect to see paint crack. I essentially restained a few spots over the poly, waited for it to dry, and then poly’ed over it once more.
We have relatively new laminate like cabinets in the home we just bought and we would like to stain.
You do not need to entirely remove the top finished coat to take the cabinetry back to natural wood (so easy!). To blend one area into another remove the excess stain from the brush and use short quick brush strokes to pull the excess stain away from the thick area. I still had plenty of oak cabinet doors in the attic since I had removed a whole bunch a few years ago, so I retrieved one, cleaned it with TSP-PF, and lightly sanded the door (this time by hand with 100 grit sandpaper, not my multitool with a sanding attachment).
Happily, I could see the grain, despite light sanding and adding thicker-than-what-felt-right coats of stain. Probably because spraying poly on is the easiest most efficient way to finish production cabinets.
You’re providing hope to tired oak cabinets everywhere that they can someday be something beautiful again.
I believe this might be related to changing temperatures in the house, as the wood is still natural beneath that stain and it might have expanded or contracted slightly. The beauty of the gel stain is that you don’t have to massage or wipe it evenly like you do with traditional water- or oil-based stain products! I did both sides of the door, and had planned to paint the inside of the cabinets but never got around to it.
Staining is difficult and leaves more window for error thus more production rejections because of the way different panels, styles and rails will accept the stain. I did not have that issue but i know from other staining projects that if I apply a second coat too early or are too rough in its application, it kind of takes off the first coat.
I can get in there with a little paint brush and the same stain and patch it right up, I presume. The shelving of our cabinetry was laminate and I wasn’t sure how well it would take (so definitely do a test sample of yours). In a production line cabinets are assembled from a parts bin and the different panels, style and rails come from different trees and each tree will accept stain slightly different leaving variation in the final assembly.
But with that said, aside from the time investment, it’s a really inexpensive update to take on, and does have an impacting result if the dark java look would tie your kitchen into the way the rest of the home is being staged. We are also replacing the laminate countertops with granite and we have gray tile flooring that will stay. I once stained cabinets with orange Japanese stains that i got from Pittsford Lumber in Shoen’s Place.



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