Chop Saw Blades For Wood,contemporary outdoor furniture plans,How To Build Wood Shelves For A Garage - Test Out

14.10.2015, admin  
Category: Bookshelf Woodworking Plans

Although I didn’t mention this to Susan, there are ways to cut aluminum materials with blades designed to cut wood. Years ago I purchased a now-discontinued Freud TK707 non-ferrous blade, and it’s served me quite well. Freud and Diablo are my preferred miter saw blade brands, but I would trust Oshlun too as a 3rd brand choice. If it’s thin material that you could potentially cut with tin snips, then a non-ferrous saw blade on a radial arm saw should work well. A fine tooth steel tooth plywood blade mounted in reverse will also cut corrugated aluminum pretty well. You can cut up to 5 sheets at a time, but make sure to keep a FIRM HAND on the saw—it will want to jump and buck.
I watched a long conveyor line made up with nothing but aluminum L brackets cut with a miter saw. I recall us buying Freud and their Diablo brand blades too for aluminum field cutting of extrusions – but we cut most heavy plate on a dedicated plate saw in the shop.


One issue with soft metals is the tendency of chips to weld onto and get stuck on the teeth or saw blade. Cutting standard aluminum extrusions on a miter saw is easy and safe if you use the proper blade. One site that discusses how stuff works advises against using a metal-cutting blade in the same saw as the type used for wood. Re: my comment regarding differences in motor housing between wood-cutting and metal-cutting saws, please note that that comment pertains to circular saws. I do have a small Evolution metal-cutting chop saw (here are some general opinions of the brand), but continue to use my Freud blade for certain things. The correct tool to use would be an abrasive chop saw, a metal cold saw, a metal band saw, a sawzall (with metal cutting blade), a jigsaw (with metal cutting blade), or a hand saw. In the best of all possible worlds (to quote Voltaire) we’d use the right dedicated tool for the job. Also make sure to wear safety glasses, as there will be a large amount of aluminum sawdust flying around if you’re doing quantity.


Not sure if they had a specific aluminum saw blade, but it worked just fine even for a big job like that. Morse Metal Devil blades for both aluminum and steel and can vouch for their clean and cool cuts. While a metal-cutting saw has a collection bin to prevent metal chips from getting into the machine, a woodcutting saw isn’t designed this way. If not it is very dangerous if the blade suddenly stops-the saw blows up-breaks off the base with cheap castings. I put an MK Morse CSM860AC Metal Devil 8″ on an old Ryobi miter saw and added a plywood support table to cut structural aluminum struts up to 3 inch square.
I only use irwin marathon 40 tooth thin kerf blades 15-20 bucks and they will last over 300 cuts in solid 3″ aluminum bar but only if you add 1 drop of oil before each cut on center of blade bolt.



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