Block Plane Blade Direction,woodworking supplies virginia beach,Diy Closet Organizer Ideas,Woodcrafters Supply Orlando - Easy Way

19.07.2014, admin  
Category: Woodworking Plans Boxes

The blade is skewed at a 15° angle, which makes cutting easier, either with or across the grain, and helps pull the fence tight against the work. I will probably spend a few hours getting the planes sharp and ready for the next huge task. A sharp, properly adjusted hand plane allows a woodworker to peel a whisper-thin shaving from wood while leaving a surface of unsurpassed quality. The block plane owes its handy size in part to the shallow angle between the blade--or iron--and the sole. Once you have one face flattened, plane the edges flat and perpendicular to the first face. Although there are a variety of styles, four basic planes include the fore plane, jack plane, smoothing plane and block plane.
Although there are several styles, the four basic planes include: block plane, jack plane, fore plane and smoothing plane. Position the blade and iron assembly in the plane body and adjust the depth with the turn screw. Make sure the plane blade is locked square in the housing by using the lever on the handle. Begin your stroke with the blade off the end of the surface and with downward pressure applied to the front knob or handle. Maintain your planes in good shape by an occasional light oil application to the bed and adjustments. A bubinga locking knob sets the toe to control the mouth opening, while an unobtrusive set screw in the throat allows repeatable mouth positioning and prevents contact between the blade and toe.
Rely on the block plane to wipe out the wavy machine-milling marks on lumberyard stock, leaving it satin-smooth. Position it in the plane's body, bevel up, engaging the appropriate notch over the tang on the adjuster, when applicable. These run from 18 to 24 inches and are also sometimes called “jointer planes.” As you can guess, one of the main uses is for planing the edges for edge jointing. Place a piece of thin cardboard or stiff paper in a flat surface, position the plane on it, then adjust the blade to that thickness. If gaps appear between the back of the iron and the back of the mouth, or if the iron rocks in the throat, remove the iron and carefully file down the high spots in the plane. Woodcraft Supply has a chisel and plane-blade sharpening guide that helps to maintain a consistent angle. This prevents an arched edge caused by the plane rocking up at the beginning and down on the end of the stroke.
A Norris-style adjuster combines feed and lateral positioning for easy, precise blade setting.


Planes come in a wide variety of sizes, styles and designs for specific woodworking purposes. Planes can range in price from about $25 for new, economical models to planes that cost several hundred dollars. More and more woodworkers are bringing power jointers and planers into their shops, often pushing hand planes into dusty corners. A block plane handles many tasks, including some that would be difficult or unsafe to perform with power tools. Even so, a block plane's cutting edge meets the wood at about the same angle as a bench plane's. This whole time I had my iron bevel facing the wrong direction and didn't even know it! Planes have many uses; however, their primary purposes are surfacing or smoothing wood surfaces.
Block planes are small, intended for use with one hand, and used for doing end grain work, beveling edges and other small chores. Woodcraft Supply’s bull-nose block plane allows you to get into tight corners and cut right to the edge. Smoothing planes are also sometimes called “bench planes.” They range from 9 to 10 inches in length. Many metal planes also have a “curling iron,” sometimes called an “iron cap,” that is held to the blade with a screw. If at all possible, always plane with the grain of the wood or with the grain slanting in the direction of the stroke. The plane is available in left- and right-hand models (neither is for left- or right-handed use only, but having both lets you handle any grain direction). These low-angle planes slice through wood more easily, but may cause tear-out along the grain. Have a Stanley 103 block plane that was broken at the throat, brazed by an excellent welder, and works very well afer truing the base. The curling iron not only adds stiffness to the blade, but also causes the shavings to curl up and out, rather than clogging the mouth of the plane. But, shaving down to the line with a block plane results in a nicer surface and a truer edge. If the plane digs in or “chatters” and is set to the correct depth, you are planing against the grain. The blade is positioned for the depth of cut and the wedge tapped in place to hold the blade.
Once the angle has been sharpened, turn the blade over to remove the slight “burr” left on the back.


It excels at trimming rabbets, working end grain, or making final jointing cuts on boards, plus you can use it in all the ways you would a regular block plane. A circular plane has a flexible steel sole and is used for planing concave surfaces such as chair bottoms.
You hold it in one hand, as shown in picture 2, with the rounded top of the iron cap (see the Plane Parts illustration, bottom right of the article) in your palm. WOOD® magazine's master craftsman, Chuck Hedlund, even sharpens flat carpenter's pencils with a block plane. Wood can be smoothed by other means as well, including power planing, hand sanding and using scrapers.
Kind of “jack-of-all-trades” planes, they can be used for almost any purpose, making them a good all-around choice for a single-plane owner.
One method of adjusting for depth is to place a piece of thin cardboard or stiff paper on a flat, smooth surface and under the plane. Because the blade sits flush with the side of the body, corner cuts are clean and accurate. Clamp the plane upside down in your vise, and you can plane parts barely large enough to grasp, as shown in picture 3.
Planing bevels or chamfers by hand often is almost as fast as machining them, considering setup time. When any project part would fit better if it was just a smidgen narrower or shorter, the block plane can save the day.
Some craftsmen like to slightly round the corners of the blade so the corners don’t dig in.
A plough or tongue-and-groove plane has an adjustable blade guide allowing you to cut dadoes and rabbets for tongue-and-groove joints. And, among hand planes, the block plane ranks near the top for versatility and convenience. A scoring spur ahead of the blade reduces tear-out on cross-grain work; it is adjustable for depth and projection and can be recessed when working with the grain.
A bull-nose block plane has the blade at the front edge, and can be used for smoothing in tight places, or up against another surface. Instead of taking the door off to rework it, just mark the high spot and shave it off with your block plane. Although these are no longer being made, the old Stanley planes are still around, if you can find them, but the cost is high.



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