27.03.2015

Woodworking plans _&_projects_2012-11.pdf,garden rooms ni,ez build shed kits - Good Point

Once you have all eight logs glued up and dry, you’ll need to true them using a thickness planer. Lower your cutter head in your thickness planer so it just contacts the face of your log, and then lower it exactly a half a crank (or about 1?32″).
Once the blanks are dry, plane them down to 2″ thick to even out the joints, then get out the glue again.
Purchase the full Simple-to-Build Workbench Woodworking Plan, including detailed diagrams and complete material list. I used antique pine for the bottom because it was cheaper than cherry (a detail which isn’t out of place in antique dry sinks for the same reason). Using the grid diagram in the plans as a guide, transfer the curves onto the back and sides.
Apply a thin layer of glue on the front of the edging at the front of the cabinet, then slide the base in place and clamp it flush at the front and back.
Otherwise, cut the truss boards to 20″ length and set in place and mark angles by hand.
Once the bottom shelf is dry, scrape, sand or plane the surfaces to remove any glue squeeze-out, then mark and cut the tenons to fit through the mortises in the side skirts. If you do the math, it adds up to a lot of dowel holes that need to be drilled in precisely the right places. The wood requires careful placement of your pushsticks on the stock and extreme caution as you cut because a large portion of the stock remains unsupported by the table due to the previously cut angle. Treat the aluminum centre strip the same way, except scuff it well with 100-grit sandpaper first and use slow-cure epoxy in place of wood glue for that lamination.


Once the glue is dry, level the solid-wood edging with neighbouring plywood using some sandpaper around a sanding block or a sharp hand plane. Complete the desk base by adding anchor blocks for securing the desktop, then sand or plane all joints flush.
Every time you use a chisel, handsaw or plane, you’re saving electricity while also producing less noise and dust.
Make the cuts on your bandsaw and clean up the saw marks with a few passes of a block plane or sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block.
You have planed half of the faces now, so you will need to lower the cutter head again by the same amount as the initial adjustment (half a crank) and then plane Sides 4, 5 and 6. So, take a breather, get all of your supplies together (including bar clamps), plan out your assembly and jump in.
Arrange the drawer so it has clearance on all sides, then drive one screw into each end of the drawer guide to lock it in place. With the holes drilled, you can glue and clamp the cleats in place on the inside faces and flush with the tops of the aprons and top supports. The low-angle, bevel-up blade slices the end-grain cleanly, and the heft of the plane helps plow through the wood. You could glue these strips into wider blanks, but the 12″ width is good because it fits through benchtop thickness planers. To make the feet, enlarge the detail from the plan and transfer it onto both sides of each foot blank.
Just be sure that nothing is placed on it and to turn it regularly so it gets even exposure.


Begin by gluing the pants bar into place with epoxy, then insert the stretchers with glue applied to the ends.
Place the glass into the rabbets in the door frames, and hold each piece in with glazing strips.
The glass fits into a rabbet groove in the back of the door frames, held in place with wooden strips glued lightly. With the legs cut, plane 5?4 lumber to 1″ thick for the rest of the base components and cut them to size. After the assembly is finished, slide this stop over the end of the rod and secure it in place with a little more epoxy. Smooth this edge with either a hand plane or some 150-grit sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block.
The FMT (Frame Mortise and Tenon) jig uses a set of guide plates to cut matching mortises and tenons precisely in your workpieces.
Position the back in place and mark the position of the dado on the rear rail that corresponds to the rabbet on the back edge of the sink bottom. Continue in this manner until all the blocks and half pieces are in place, then remove your clamps and wrap a band clamp around the entire top.



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Comments to Woodworking plans _&_projects_2012-11.pdf

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