You can pass on the last two, and just use the wire if A you want a square box, but it might making getting to the compost a little trickier {read: A a big fat pain}. Third, hammer a landscape pole into the ground about 12″ deep on the hinge side corner of the box {on the inside}. If you have chickens, I highly recommend giving your chickens your compost pile and skipping the pallets! If my girls had a permanent location I would agree with Rachel, but my girls use a chicken tractor that I move around the yard daily. Do you think it would be possible to use the walls of the compost bin as a veriticle veggie garden?
Fergi, you mentioned that the plants started to dry out and the berries were looking deformed. How long does it take for the material to turn into compost using this style of compost bin? Pallet finding… I work at a drug store and every week on our water deliveries we have pallets. For the past 2 years I have been cold composting right on the ground, but I am not getting enough compost and really want to step up my composting so I am going to build a bin out of some extra pallets that I have left over from the fence I just built:) I have a good source for wood shavings from a cabinet maker in town, what is your feeling on using wood shavings in your compost and how long does it take to break down so I can use it in my veggie garden.
My chickens eat whole (cracked eggs) all the time, and they don’t eat the eggs they lay.
It’s not hard to start changing our gardening practices and becoming a little more organic in our thinking.
Actually, it can be as simple as turning a few storage tubs into a fully-functioning worm farm. Sure, you could race down to your local hardware and pick one up for between $70-100 or get Amazon to send a Can O Worms Composting Bin (aff.) out to you. All you require is two Plastic Recycling Tubs (aff.) and lid, a piece of wood, some fine mesh and a few screws. The only proviso in using two tubs for your worm farm instead of three is that you will need to be more vigilant in harvesting the castings and keeping the temperature right. Then the bottom tub becomes the new top tub as you replace the organic bedding encouraging your worms to continue their journey. So, rather than reaching for that brand-name fertiliser, start to make your own and recycle some of your waste products at the same time. I am just itching to get my worm farm set up but none of the articles have been very specific that I have found! A worm compost bin is just what it sounds like – it makes use of worms to aid in the breakdown of organic material into compost.
A multi – bin system is choice if you have a lot of composting to do, or desire do to composting continually over time.

Once you have spent some quality time looking at the different styles of compost bins, there might be some additional questions or considerations. This is also an important question to ask, because it can basically determine the size of your bin.
It is vital that no matter what the compost bin or style you feel is right for you, it is properly aerated and has a hole large enough for you to get your compost out of. I am new to composting and was thinking that for the beginning trial stage I would buy a plastic round trashcan, cut small squares on the sides and cover the holes with screen for ventilation. Trash cans are not very sturdy, so I don’t know if you could roll one around successfully. I have very limited space and have about narrowed my choice of composters down to worm bins. It sounds like you will have a lot of nitrogen rich materials, and those can really start to get slimy and clump up in a tumbler if you don’t have enough carbon materials to go with it.
Become a fan of Composting on Facebook to give and get even more information about composting success. A Strap the sides to the back of the pallet by wrapping the wire through both pallets and twisting tight {Don’t twist too tight or the wire might break}.
A Before screwing the front gate onto the hinges, you can add a spacer on the bottom using scrap wood or a leftover piece of the landscaping pole to provide some ventilation for the bottom of your compost pile. We found a source in Northern Colorado by checking the free section several times that had more pallets then one could ever hope for! In my experience this method is not very workable and after failure it was a real mess to clean up.
And in fall, you can round up all the leaves from neighbors on trash day… I can’t believe how many people rake up and through away those wonderfull tree leafs!! Putting a golf ball in the nesting boxes helps with this (my hens were eating eggs BEFORE I started feeding them to them) and also encourages free rangers to lay IN the nests. Basically you need one storage bin for the first level and then another on top for the worms to escape.
As the worms travel upstairs into the next tub you will know it’s time to remove the worm fertiliser and store or use on your garden. These bins are also typically above ground, so they are resistant to attacks by pests and animals. However, they are excellent if you need to yield a large amount of compost, and are generally properly aerated. Waste is typically broken down quickly with these bins, and is great for producing compost tea – a liquid substance that occurs naturally when producing compost that is high in nutrients and really good for your garden.
You can have different stages of compost in each bin, and in the end come out with a lot of compost for your lawn or garden.

For example, if you are going to be working constantly with a large surface area and are going to require large amounts of compost for your garden, then something such as a multi-bin system may be perfect for you. However, if you are composting a lot of vegetables with some leaves and grass, then it may make sense to purchase a tumbling compost bin or a stationary compost bin – something with easy access from the kitchen in the backyard that can get regular use.
If you are working with a smaller surface area, then a large compost bin is not going to make sense. In addition, your bin should be something that is convenient for you – something that you can get to and from easily, and that will be practical for all of your gardening needs.
Most of the contents will be finished already, and only the last stuff that you added will still be breaking down if you are continuously composting. I utilize the chickens to turn my goat and rabbit (and their own) bedding when it’s spent.
Last year I got too busy and neglected to water my previously burgeoning raspberry canes and at some point they just started to shrivel up.
If possible, try and obtain a compost bin that will be above ground and resistant to rodents, so your compost can decompose quickly and efficiently.
Initially, I thought the Envirocycle Compost Tumbler might work, but it sounds like I would need two of them to continuously compost. When it starts to get full, you can dump it out and run it through a compost screen and throw the few unfinished remains back into the bin to keep going.
So it’s unlikely that a single worm bin will be able to keep up with all of your materials. I see them for free all the time, I am excited to see this use for them because I have stacks of them I use for bonfires, but seeing this use for them I am going to go rake all my fall leaves and build a compost bin from pallets to toss them in. I feed that hay to my milking goats, but there is waste hay that ends up as bedding for them, the rabbits and the chickens.
Then, when I need to fertilize, mulch, or otherwise aid the garden, everything is ready to go! I toss my composting scraps out there as well, and anything the chickens don’t eat gets turned into the compost that is already there. I live on an island in the state of Washington which is temperate climate with maritime influence but virtually NO rain for 60 days or so.
I’ve heard of using shade cloth to give plants a little relief, though never had to do it here where temps range from abut 67 to 95 (20 to 35 celsius).

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