We are only able to offer finance products from the providers we use, who may be able to offer you finance for your purchase. Performance is important - so we've used a little online magic to provide you with the key bits of information you need to know about this car. It's important to be able to compare cars by their standard equipment - some cars come with so many more features included than others, which can dramatically affect how much you spend.
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Will usually ship within 1 business day of receiving cleared payment - opens in a new window or tab. Here you will find Technical Information and help about automotive and electronic producs and services. Do you know or have any information that you think would be helpful to the community and would like to share it in this blog?You are welcome to post it if you would like to! After publishing our article about IAT resistors, many people have been requesting related information not included in the mentioned post. We don’t have the info on the Toyota Corolla handy at this moment, but below you will find how to identify the connection of the iat from the maf sensor. The BMW manual for the IAT sensor location is very simple and do not provide location pictures. The MAF sensor is located in the incoming air path at the left side (driver’s side) of the engine compartment. The MAF has 5 wires on its connector and the IAT is directly wired to the wire #5, which color is YELLOW with GREEN.
The resistor can be wired from that wire #5 to any of the two black wires in the same connector, which are #3 and #6 (Yes, it has 5 wires, but for some reason they are numbered 2,3,4,5 and 6). Please remember, one lead of the resistor is wired to one of the black wires, but the black wire is NOT cut or disconnected from the MAF sensor.
The other resistor lead is wired to the #5, and the wire must be cut from the MAF, leaving enough length on the wire that goes to the MAF, so it can be reconnected in any future time you wish to do so. The incoming air temperature read by the ecu, will be altered (fooled) by the resistor replacing the IAT and this false registered temperature will depend on the amount of the resistance.
In this case, the connection must be done by opening (cutting) wire #1 and connecting one lead of the resistor to the part of the cut wire that goes to the ecu and the other resistor lead must be connected to wire #5, without cutting it from the MAF. As you may have noticed, it will take one three way switch and two resistors, not just one.


I wish I had come across your information before wasting the time and money for that resistor sold to me on ebay as a fuel performance chip.
But I do have the chip, and know where the MAF is, but do not know which of the wires to hook it to. Unfortunately, I don’t have the information on the 2010 model, but if like it is been happening so far, the MAF from a prior model might have the same configuration. In a note apart from the topic, eBay buyers like you should take action and leave a negative feedback to these sellers as this is dishonest business and sellers know it. I think that the word should be spread and tell people about this article so they don’t get fooled.
I bought one of these off ebay for 25 bucks, he said it was a chip, got it in the mail 7 days later.
The other resistor lead, must be connected to wire #5 (Brown), without disconnecting it from the MAF. The first wire should be cut and the side that goes to the ecu is to be connected to one of the resistor’s leads and the other lead should be connected to the second wire (GND), whithout disconnecting it (No cutting) from the Flow Meter sensor.
About your 1995 Hyundai Elantra, the IAT is embedded with the MAF sensor which has 6 wires. I am looking for color code used for the wire which sends the temperature signal to ECU from IAT in 2007 Suzuki SX4 1.6 Petrol.
We don’t have the information about the color code on that model, but we do have a picture of its configuration. After reading all the info, I’m confused as to your final opinion of these resistors.
The reason I put the information and even help people find the facts for their cars, is for those who won’t just take my words and would like to try it anyway.
I am pretty sure that most of those who have tried so far, have realized that it is not worth it.
I invite all of them to leave their comments about this, as I am generalizing and may be it was worth doing for someone.
I hope that with the new FTC laws, those scammers with their fake testimonials are taken down, out of business, if that can be called a business. I saw a thread - somewhere - where there is a mod to add a button to control the main vent that goes to the outside air.
The vacuum plug connector (behind dash) that leads to the HVAC controls has several vacuum lines in it. Our performance summary tells you all the highlights of the Ford Fiesta 1.25 Zetec 5dr [82] hatchback, technical specification is for the petrol heads amongst us and the standard equipment allows you to check what you'll get for free with the car. Check what comes standard with the Ford Fiesta 1.25 Zetec 5dr [82] hatchback before you continue.


Contact the seller- opens in a new window or tab and request a shipping method to your location. On some vehicles, the info of this sensor is very relevant, making considerable changes depending on the value present on this sensor, while in other vehicles it will cause very small changes.
That should be enough for doing some simple temperature tests as described in the first published article about this. This is because the reference is taken from the harness connector terminal and not from the MAF connector terminal. I am amazed that many people still have success selling such a rip off and they don’t even send installing instructions. Otherwise you will cut an important ground connection needed by this sensor, making possible erratic behavior of the vehicle.
You can use a toggle switch, putting its common terminal to the IAT wire that goes to the ecu and then select any of the three possible positions, being them, (1) one connector to the normal IAT on the MAF, and the other two to a couple of resistor values, (2) one for rich and (3) one for lean.
If you are getting any change in performance, consumption, fueling or ignition, then you are on your way.
In this case, the hook up must be done like in the last drawing above, by cutting wire #4 (MAF side) and attaching one lead of the resistor on that same wire at ECU side. On one hand, you seem to be giving lots of advise for people to DIY their own but on the the other hand, you call them a “scam”?
That is an intelligent way of thinking and I am in favor of that, so the least I can do, having the knowledge, experience and information on hand, is to help them do it them selves without paying a dime to those scammers. Last but not least on the agenda is the green statistics - will this car be a green star or a green destroyer? If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable.
If parts have been installed then they are not returnable, if we find evidence of installation your order will not be refunded. You may change between economy and power or just go back to stock (factory) settings any time.
I mean, be mentally prepared as we are just giving away this information in an attempt to stop people scamming on eBay and now beyond eBay. What it is been proved so far is the placebo effect, that with the mere fact that something has been installed on the engine, people think they feel some gain at least. This is provided as an option for people who want to try the IAT resistor modification anyway, so they can do it without paying a pennie to those scammers.



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