Remove the nuts and washer and disconnect the stabilizer link assembly from the front I-beam axle. Remove the mounting bolts and remove the stabilizer bar retainers from the stabilizer bar assembly. All of these will bolt directly to your factory tracks if you have either Buckets or split-bench. You will have to run a Tap through some pre drilled holes in the bottom of the seat frames. Bronco II's all have different floor pan profiles and so use different seat tracks, so if you want to put buckets or a split-bench into a std cab Ranger you must get your seat tracks out of a std cab Ranger. Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions.
AlvinC answered a question about my Ford truck that only someone with an in-depth knowledge of his subject would have known what was going on.
Because of your expertise, you armed me with enough ammunition to win the battle with the dealer.
I do know, after going though this with JustAnswer, that I can somewhat trust my mechanic but I will always contact you prior to going there. I would (and have) recommend your site to others I was quite satisfied with the quality of the information received, the professional with whom I interacted, and the quick response time. I was having a terrible problem with the wheel bearings on my 98 Chevy Cavalier and I suspect that using this website saved me plenty of time and money.
I repaired 1 brake at a time so I can look at the other side while reinstalling brakes and hardware. It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult. I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around. Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know.

It completely changed the way my Bronco looked, and I was proud to drive it down the street. The adjusting screw may need to be turned so the drum fits snugly over the assembly without the shoes dragging.
So proud, in fact, that I could completely ignore the newly created vibration in the suspension.
The shoe that faces the front of the vehicle is the primary shoe and usually has a shorter lining. For the last year however, that vibration has become more irritating, since by then, I was pretty sure what caused it. The increase in pinion angle is due to the suspension lift raising the frame and drivetrain, including the transfer case, and not the rear differential.
Since the transfer case end of the driveshaft is now several inches higher, the angle between the driveshaft and the pinion gear is increased. As the pinion angle increases past 3-4°, the u-joint will experience increased wear and possible premature failure.
As the pinion angle increases past 9-10°, the vibration I experienced will be felt, along with the increased wear on the u-joint.
One option could be to remove the rear differential, cut off the spring perches, rotate the differential to obtain the proper pinion angle, and then re-weld the spring perches back on. The first method uses an angle measuring gauge (adjustable protractor) to measure the difference between the pinion flange and the drive shaft directly. Place the edge of the gauge vertically against the front of the pinion flange, beside the driveshaft. Hold the straight edge flat against the bottom of the driveshaft and adjust the measuring arm to read the angle.
Depending on the gauge you use, you may have to subtract 90° from your reading to get the correct number. I chose to measure across the face of the yoke, so I removed the two u-joint u-bolts and moved the driveshaft out of the way.
But, after thinking about the yoke moving up, lessening the driveshaft angle, I decided to order 6° shims.

I ran across a company in California, 4Crawler Offroad, that custom makes several items for off-road vehicles, including steel axle shims. Not only do they offer quality products for sale, but, as an example, in the section on shims, provides and explanation of the shims and what they do, how to measure for shims, how to install shims, FAQ, etc.
First step is to jack up the Bronco and support it by the frame, then remove the wheels to aid access to the axle u-bolts. Here's a picture of how I manage to get a little extra height out of my 4 ton jack stands.
Remove one end of the shock so it doesn't limit the droop of the differential when you remove the u-bolts.
I'm still running the stock rear shock mounts, and it was easier to remove the top of the shock. Position a c-clamp on each end of the lower leaf and tighten, to hold the spring pack together when removing the leaf spring bolt.
If you don't have enough bolt thread left, you will have to buy new, longer spring bolts. Measure the original bolt carefully, as the replacement spring bolts come in different size heads, as well as lengths. Insert the spring bolt through the correct side of the shim, slide back through the spring pack, and tighten up the nut.
These shims are made with a relief on one side so the spring bolt head has a surface that's parallel to the spring. Total time to install the shims, from jacking up the Bronco to cleaning and putting away my tools was only 3 hours, including time to take pictures.

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