Tasty Autos features auto photos, car photos, auto pics, car pics, car pictures, auto pictures,show car pics, stock car pics, factory auto pictures and car manufacturer photos. Interior car photo of 2013 Ford Edge featuring the center console, USB input, auxiliary input and 12 volt power connector. Interior car photo of 2013 Ford Edge featuring the center console, USB input, Auxiliary RCA inputs and SD card input.
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Does any one know what i need( and hopefully a wiring diagram) to connect our 12v fridge to both the house battery and the starter when we're driving? I’m planning the electrics for my micro camper conversion and the circuit provided by Stearman 65 looks about what I had in mind.
I’ve looked at various chargers (ranging in price) and the 3 or 4 stage ones which are supposed to be ideal for leisure batteries can have an output voltage of 15v+. When the charger is connected up and charging the leisure battery can all the other 12v circuits be used at the same time without blowing up intolerant accessories?
Most leisure vehicle accessories are designed to have a fairly wide voltage range tolerance.

It’s a micro camper conversion with limited space; the main electrical consumer will be a small 12v fridge at about 50W. Next question: If we put in a 100 Ah leisure battery what size of charger would be adequate to charge the battery and also power the fridge? To power the fridge alone, based on your figures, you'll need a charger at at least 4 amps output.
However, you are already using 4 amps, so you'll need a 9 amp output charger to charge the battery from 50% flat, and run the fridge, in a 10 hour period.
The fridge seems to be the main drain on the electrics – after all it’s only there to keep a couple of pints of milk, a lump of cheese and few cans cool - but can cost hundreds. I quite like the idea of a well insulated cool box; starting out with plenty of frozen milk and cans to keep everything cool for a few days and if there’s a convenient hook up available plug in the Peltier cooler device to see us to the end of the trip. Sign up to receive the free email newsletter with news, offers, and information from Camper Van Life.
Looking at some of the recent posts, I am SHOCKED to see that the HAH has a timing belt and not a chain. I checked the owners manual and can spot the lighter socket fuse for the dash 12 socket in front of the transmission selector BUT not the internal socket in the arm rest. Seems the angle of the socket requires the plug to go in at a steep angle which may have done some internal damage. I knew what kind of fuse and I even knew the location per the owners manual BUT I had NO IDEA the auxiliary fuse box was THAT far from the main box. I had never really looked at the fuse layout on my 07 and took the time to see if it is the same. Honda doesn't seem to included any spares and a fuse puller in this car so I might put both in a useful location. I did check all the fone cords and gps cords too to make sure they were not the problem I plugged them into a 12v battery on which I wired a lighter jack and all devices worked fine.
My guess is that something like a nail file or a ball point pen or maybe even spare keys were thrown in the console arm rest and accidentally landed in such a way to enter the socket and short things out.

I rent a lot of vehicles and there are a few makes that do a nice job of installing those outlets so they really are user friendly. First off, you can get a reman'd OEM Denso unit at a dealership for less than the $230 retail price. I've used 10si alternators for conversions on Rovers and Suzukis, but I'm not an advocate of how GM alternators are better. I got one from a JY for $30 (30 day guarantee, they pulled it, and cut the wiring harness off for me so I'd have the pigtail). Get a alternator from an early 80's toyota celica not sure of the exact year but its a one wire set up and its a higher amp than the pickup's. 2000 mazda flex fuel sensor a 1982 chevy rear tail light lens caprice it location of the power transistor in 2003 civic?. It would be a bit irritating if one had to wait for the battery to charge up before putting the lights on!!
A state of the art fridge may do the job and consume the least electricity but it’s really a bit on the extravagant side. Maybe because it was pretty dark in the garage when I looked and I really didn't need one, but you are right and now I know. Not sure where you picked your new alternator up, but the one I purchased from Vatozone for my 4.3L was $125, and that was for the cheapest one. Bought a 20A on-off-on switch assuming that would be alright, but have since been told to put relays in??How do they fit into the circuit?
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