I was trying to clean the passenger side battery terminals from some corrosion that formed. On y my V10 my negative terminal snapped off - love Northeast rust when I was replacing my battery. If the cable is anything like the one on a V10 you can drill out the broken stud and just slip it over one of these. The Center for Auto Safety just made the NHTSA (US Government) make public the full text of all TSBs from now on.
Whenever you drive in your car, you are safer thanks in part to a lot of work over the years by this small but very effective consumer advocacy group. Please take a moment & say thank you by donating $5 or whatever you can to the Center for Auto Safety.
After having it in the shop just last week for a tranny problem now my hatch won't open, but my glass will but my glass is hard to close because it doesn't want to latch, and my dash fan won't work in 1 and 2.
The rear hatch started not opening at times, then would not open at all!The electric latch mechanism had failed and had to be replaced at the cost of $210.00 including labor. Same problem as other user, rear hatch will not open on new Ford escape XLT, standard transmission. Find out what cars to avoid, view the latest problem trends, or keep up-to-date with the most recently reported problems. Link must be about this specific problem or it will be deleted — it must be free & helpful, like a video or web page or forum thread about this exact problem. Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. I have a ford f250 super duty 2011, The trailer lights work except for the running lights when i turn on my headlights. Hi, my name is XXXXX XXXXX have a trailer lamp relay for the parking lamps, and usually they dont come with a relay installed in them, it is in the fuse box under the hood by the battery, i will post a picture for this box below and can you tell me if they have the relay installed for the parking lamp? Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people‚Äôs questions. AlvinC answered a question about my Ford truck that only someone with an in-depth knowledge of his subject would have known what was going on. Because of your expertise, you armed me with enough ammunition to win the battle with the dealer. I do know, after going though this with JustAnswer, that I can somewhat trust my mechanic but I will always contact you prior to going there.

I would (and have) recommend your site to others I was quite satisfied with the quality of the information received, the professional with whom I interacted, and the quick response time. A drain plug is located at the bottom of the water pump assembly for additional coolant drainage from the engine block and water pump. Tighten the bolts on the water pump holding tool into the threads on the water pump sprocket. Install the access cover bolts that were removed earlier to secure the water pump holding tool to the front cover assembly. Remove the 3 inner water pump sprocket to water pump bolts through the holes in the water pump holding tool.
Apply a thin bead of sealer around the outside edge of the water pump along the gasket sealing area. In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Ranger Forums forums, you must first register.
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In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic. I had to run out and got a new terminal for less than 5 bucks that even has a quick release screw type on top. Ford should have added a convenient "second" way of opening that back gate, some type of cable actuator behind or under something that you can pull if the electrical fails. The dealer indicated that it was our own fault for not properly cleaning the vehicle which is a crock as it is generally washed weekly. The complaints are organized into groups with data published by vehicle, vehicle component, and specific problem. Would I just go a little further back than the corrosion and cut it there, then crimp on a new connector to run to the battery terminal?
I would search for a inline terminal like pictured below and crimp the ends like it should be.
Looked it up online apparenty I need a new actuator and seal because the seals go bad around the back window and water runs down into the actuator ruining it. Right now I just need part # PA6GF30 rear door hatch lock actuator made by Kiekert [Germany]. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS UNDER WARRANTY THE PROBLEM WAS REPORTED TO THE DEALER WHO COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM.

It looks like the two thick positive cables come in from different directions and both share the same positive clamp. The smaller one I think I can just cut back an inch or two and still have enough cable (with a new connector of course) to remount on the positve terminal. Makes it hard now that this won't open, especially when trying to take in and out a dog kennel. This is the same thing that other users have complained about, the actuator blows and you are left buying a $160.00 part. What galls me, is I found out from out local garage that Ford has issued a bulletin regarding this problem, but has not issued a recall, meaning the customer pays!!! It would be nice if companies who cleary are in the the wrong would step up to the plate and take care of their customers. EVEN THOUGH THERE IS A RECORD OF THE PROBLEM WITH FORD, THEY WILL NOT COVER THE REPAIR UNDER WARRANTY AS I AM 5,000 MILES OVER THE BUMPER TO BUMPER WARRANTY. In addition, the little red cable running off the passenger battery was very rusted (this all happened in the last 8 months when I bought new batteries).
I am lucky enough to be able to install it myself but I am sure most people also pony up for the mechanic fee which makes that $!60.00 part cost twice as much. At the same time (vehicle is just over 3 months old), I've twice taken it in because vehicle would not start.
This little red cable goes back to the alternator or started I think, and when I was trying to loosen the nut holding the smaller cable (using a 10mm) it broke off from the whole positive terminal clamp. Called the dealership and they can't get me in until next week and will be anywhere from $60 - $120 to diagnose.
I still owe money to Ford Credit & I am thinking of stopping payments if they don't correct the problem. Is it possible that in conditions of rear hatch not unlocking, a relay remains open draining the battery. I have always bought Ford vehicules, but since Ford won't stand behind this car I am finished with them.

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