During one of the recent very hot days in the Mid-Atlantic (100+ degrees Fahrenheit temperatures) my 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid alerted me to a problem with my brakes while I was traveling in normal traffic conditions. With no cars directly behind me, I carefully tested my brakes and they seemed to operate as expected. Since the brakes seemed to operate correctly, I directed my attention to the ABS (Anti-Lock Braking System). To complete the replacement of this important ABS component, start by carefully blocking the wheels of your Ford Escape Hybrid, engaging the parking brake, and lifting the corner of the vehicle that has the broken tone ring. Now remove the electronic eye sensor that is coupled to the tone ring and move it out of the way; a single, small fastener holds it in-place.
The replacement indicator ring would not easily fit in-place of the original, so I cleaned up the surface area with a small die grinder with a sandpaper barrel bit. With the new tone ring installed, I proceeded to reassemble the rest of the axle and hub assembly, including the brake rotor and caliper.
In the end, the repair process took less than three hours, including preparation and clean-up time.
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. The author reserves the right to accept or reject any comments that are submitted to this blog. Detroit Free Press reported this is the third time a quality problem has been connected to the new Escape model.
Several media reports noted the recalls have not had an impact on sales of the new Escape, which was one of the top five sellers in the U.S.
If you own a Ford vehicle and want to check for recalls on your model, you can do so on this page.
Remove the screws fastening the front fascia to the reinforcement as necessary in order to access the drive belt splash shield forward fastener screw. Place a shop towel between the crowfoot and the pump pulley to avoid slipping and possibly damaging the pulley.
Remove the fasteners securing the upper radiator closure panel in place, then remove the panel. Lift the cooling module out of its lower mounts and carefully move it toward the left side of the vehicle. For additional room, the right side bolts securing the lower radiator closure panel in front of the cooling module can be removed. Remove the clamp securing the supply hose to the power steering pump supply fitting, then remove the hose from the supply fitting. Ease the cooling module forward, don't force it, and remove the power steering pump and pulley.
Using a lint free towel, wipe clean the open power steering pressure hose end and the power steering pump port. Ease the cooling module forward, don't force it, and install the power steering pump and pulley into its mounting area in the same fashion it was removed. Using a crowfoot wrench on a long extension with a torque wrench, tighten the pressure hose tube nut at the power steering pump to a torque of 23 ft. If previously removed, install the right side bolts securing the lower radiator closure panel in front of the cooling module. Perform the Power Steering Pump Initial Operation service procedure to properly fill and bleed the power steering system.
Remove fasteners securing upper radiator closure panel in place, then remove the panel and lay it out of way. Remove the 2 screws fastening upper radiator hose inlet neck to radiator, then separate inlet neck from radiator.
Remove clamp securing fluid return hose to pump reservoir, then remove hose from reservoir fitting. Back out tube nut securing fluid pressure hose to power steering pump and remove hose from pump. Using a lint free towel, wipe clean open power steering pressure hose end and power steering pump pressure port.
Install power steering pump with pulley and reservoir into its mounting area in same fashion it was removed. Clean and inspect or replace upper radiator hose inlet neck O-ring, then install inlet neck to radiator.


Perform the Power Steering Pump Initial Operation procedure to properly fill and bleed the power steering system. Ford will recall another 1.2 million F-150 half-ton pickup trucks from the 2004-2006 model years, plus certain 2006 Lincoln Mark LT trucks, to fix a problem that can cause the driver-side airbag to deploy without warning. The expanded recall is the result of an investigation by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. Ford made an interim design change to the horn mounting plate in January 2006 and redesigned it, along with the airbag module and wiring, in June 2006 for model year 2007.
F-150 owners should seek service immediately if the truck's airbag warning light is illuminated, Ford said in a statement.
I just can't belive the most rootin tootin truck (aka) f-150 has any defects of any kind. Atleast you still have control of the steering and brakes if the airbag deploys unlike a stuck gas pedal without a brake override control or a jammed floor mat that causes more serious injuries and deaths.
Bob, You need to stop making yourself sound like an idiot, You are making all Bobs sound bad. Didn't think Ford was going to get away with the small recall, all those steering wheels probably have identical wiring. I bet Mike Levine hates having to post these recall stories knowing what inevitably happens next in the comment section. A machine as complex as a car or truck are bound to have problems, especially when none of the manufacturers do 100% QC inspections or double checks. No O-rings or gaskets were listed separately for the crossover and I've never had one apart from those models. I THINK he is talking about the metal crossover which does bolt to the plastic on the intake. This problem started when it reached the mid 90s a few weeks ago, i assumed my fuel cap wasnt venting properly and didnt think mich about it.
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The regenerative braking indicator showed that energy was flowing back to the high voltage batteries and the vehicle safely slowed down. Recalling research from my earlier brake problems, I started by resetting the vehicle's computer by disconnecting the battery for a short time. After placing jack stands (or some other kind of safety blocks) under the car, remove the wheel. This can be a challenge as the part is often temporarily fixed to the axle, adhered by time and corrosion.
Disconnect the tie rod and remove the two bolts that connect the hub to the suspension strut. If the axle does not easily dislodge from the hub, you may need to use a gear puller (like I did) to push the axle out of the hub to get access to the tone ring.
Based on my observation, the area of the axle where the ring resided was slightly corroded and the original ring had only the one crack.
Once the wheel was mounted, I was able to remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
If you have experienced this or any other issues with the brakes on your Ford hybrid vehicle, please file a complaint with the Office of Defects Investigation ("ODI") at the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration ("NHTSA"). If this occurs, engine coolant could leak out onto a hot engine; this increases risk of an engine compartment fire.
The power steering fluid supply hose must remain clear of any unfriendly surface that can cause possible damage to it. Good job Ford for issuing a recall in a time manner and not pushing it aside and hoping it will go away!!! As for bob, according to your logic Gm can engineer a quality vehicle but they shouldn't be allowed to assemble it. It happened again a few days ago and I switched the caps around to see if that was the problem, it got better but not much, it still just spews fuel out when I turn my truck on. Ill take it to a shop when im not working, id do it myself but it requires a lot of work just to get to it.
Obviously, this was not another death-defying episode with a failed master cylinder and hydraulic control unit (Please see my previous blog posts: My Ford Escape Hybrid Brake Repair Experience - The Brakes Broke the Bank!
That cleared the alarm, but a short test drive resulted in the problem quickly reoccurring.


However, with no ABS diagnostic code scanning device available to me, I resorted to a physical, visual inspection of the brake components.
It is not a component that experiences any wear and tear; the ring is simply fitted to the axle at each wheel and allows the electronic eye to register pulses to determine the wheel speed. However, it may be beyond the scope of some shade tree mechanics as it does require some tools that are not often found in the typical household toolbox. If you cannot remove the brake rotor after a couple of simple taps with a hammer, follow the helpful advice provided in this instructional video before you do something silly and break or damage your vehicle's brakes. You can conveniently leave the hub connected to the lower ball joint while you finish the repair.
Allow the hub to lay to the side, out of the way, while you get down to business replacing the tone ring. I found that the new ring would not simply slide into place, which I was glad to see since I wanted the new ring to have a nice and tight fit on the axle. A brief test drive in a safe area that allowed me to perform several hard-braking, quick stops, demonstrated that the ABS was working correctly and that the new indicator ring had resolved the problem. Assuming the usual labor and shop charges, performing this repair myself must have easily saved me a few hundred dollars. In that announcement, 10,000 vehicles were recalled due to a carpeting flaw which could interfere with braking. I started to read the comments to see if they had any PRODUCTIVE feeback, and it was all just aggrivating.
I would remove the intake manifold to remove the two bolts that secure the tube at the rear of the passengerside cyl head. I tried to switch the tanks but im not sure if its running off the over flowing one because the fuel gauge is broken and reads over the full line, and the other tanks gauge goes down when it leaks gas. There was a TSB out there for 9th gens that added additional check valves to the senders to prevent this from happening.
Coupled with an "electronic eye" sensor, this slotted ring is fitted to the axle at each wheel. I'll provide the steps that I took to complete the work, but I will recommend that you enlist the assistance of a more experienced mechanic if you are not skilled in these types of repairs. You may want to try performing a search on both numbers in order to get the best comparison. A generous application of penetrating oil on the fasteners you will be removing goes a long way towards making your life easier for these kinds of projects. It did not appear that Ford had done anything obvious to improve the design of the replacement part unless the metal alloy was somehow changed.
I carefully heated the new ring with a propane torch; not too hot, just enough to expand the diameter enough so that it could be tapped into place on the axle with a small hammer.
Fuel spillage in the presence of an ignition source, presents the potential for a vehicle fire. Prices varied widely; I found that a single ring sold for between $7 and $35 (plus applicable taxes, handling, and shipping).
It's possible that the high ambient temperatures contributed to this failure by slightly expanding the size of the axle. I found what looked to be a reputable retailer that sold the "Genuine Ford Part" for about $15. It involves using a short piece of heater hose (instead of O rings)and two hose clamps to make the connection with the nipple that protrudes from the water pump housing.
Basically what's happening is your other tank is pumping gas into both the motor and the leaking tank. However, based on my previous bad experiences with Ford's brake system design, I will chalk this one up to another poor component design; a potentially dangerous situation that never should have occurred! It arrived just a couple of days after online purchase, so I was ready to tackle the project!
Maybe one of these days the NHTSA will have Ford address these potentially dangerous issues with the brake systems on their hybrid vehicles. My research could not identify a technical service bulletin ("TSB") or recall notice associated with this issue, so if your warranty has expired, the repair is up to you.




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