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Just wanted to post this so you were all aware of a potential Throttle body issue GM is having with the 5.3 motor. Drove through about 100 miles of slush in the highway a couple weeks ago, and suddenly my 08 Impala SS with the 5.3 v8 went into limp mode.
The next morning they said they couldn't get to it until the next day, but the mechanic said that they are seeing that exact problem with Suburbans and Tahoes with that motor, and it's a bad throttle body. So we drove it home, and it did it 3 more times, each time shutting it off for a minute brought it back running normally. Anyhow, the GM Dealer at home replaced the throttle body and said they were seeing a number of these doing that.
It does seem like since I got it back that the throttle is more responsive that it used to be. In my case it was all covered under warranty and they paid for a rental car while waiting for a throttle body to arrive. Well, I just bought a 2011 Impala a month ago with 37,000 miles on it (just out of the bumper-to-bumper warranty).
I can't see how it wouldn't be covered under powertrain, and even if it wasn't, 1k miles out of bumper-to-bumper shouldn't matter that much. This problem started when it reached the mid 90s a few weeks ago, i assumed my fuel cap wasnt venting properly and didnt think mich about it. To submit this form you need to use Internet Explorer v10+ or recent version of Chrome, Firefox or Safari.
The casing around the coolant temperature sensor (mounted in the block next to the coolant drain plug) came apart in my hands the other day. I don't have a temp gauge on my dash, just an idiot light, does this have anything to do with the type of connector? I'm fairly certain that the sensor you are referring to is not actually your coolant temp but actually your knock sensor. I'll take a picture of my setup on my 90 when the sun comes up here in alittle bit and post the picture ASAP but I am still fairly certain that when I had the engine out recently the knock sensor has the Fuel injector style connector. The wrapped wires are the coolant sensor and the one just above the oil pan is the knock sensor. Damn, you guys are right, I must have gotten mixed up when I was under my truck and not realized that there was a second sensor hanging out above it. Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to.
Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions.

AlvinC answered a question about my Ford truck that only someone with an in-depth knowledge of his subject would have known what was going on.
Because of your expertise, you armed me with enough ammunition to win the battle with the dealer. I do know, after going though this with JustAnswer, that I can somewhat trust my mechanic but I will always contact you prior to going there.
I would (and have) recommend your site to others I was quite satisfied with the quality of the information received, the professional with whom I interacted, and the quick response time.
I am currently looking at installing a Brake Controller and upgrade from 4 to 7 blade plug on my 2011 Sorento SX which has factory wiring (plugs located under drivers side rear). 1) Are there existing wires (in the factory wiring) in order to connect Electric Brake Output (Blue wire) and the 12V Hot Lead (Black wire)? 3) Most of the instructions do not include directions to install the Reverse Lights (Purple wire). Also, if any of you have completed this installation and would like to offer me any tips or hints I would greatly appreciate it!
I realize this is an old post, but I had trouble finding the correct wire for my brake controller and I found this thread and tried it first. I checked the Reese installation guide on their website, mine SHOULD be to the cold side as well.
So if I understand right, with trailer connected, it would think the brakes are on all the time the way it's wired now.
Can you describe or post some pictures on which way you got the break controller wires running between the engine compartment and the inside of the vehicle? I just bought a 2011 Sorento EX, with the factory hitch and 4-way hookup, and need to convert it to a 7-way hookup including the break controller. The messages on the dash were that the Stability control needed to be serviced, and reduced engine power. Shut it off for a minute, it started up and ran normally but the check engine light was now on. The service manager said her daughter's Tahoe had just done it and they had to replace the TB. I had the same problem with the stabilitrak and traction control lights coming on and reduced power. I wouldn't even bother going back to that dealer, talk to the customer service rep on the forum here, she can help you find another dealer and get things rolling. It happened again a few days ago and I switched the caps around to see if that was the problem, it got better but not much, it still just spews fuel out when I turn my truck on.
Ill take it to a shop when im not working, id do it myself but it requires a lot of work just to get to it. When the alternator fails, it can burn out this fuse for the indicator and prevent the batteries from charging, it is circled in the picture.
Does anyone know where I can tap into this circuit on my Sorento as I would like to hook this up for future use.

So, I took it to the dealership this morning, got a call and it's the throttle body, so they say. I tried to switch the tanks but im not sure if its running off the over flowing one because the fuel gauge is broken and reads over the full line, and the other tanks gauge goes down when it leaks gas. There was a TSB out there for 9th gens that added additional check valves to the senders to prevent this from happening. I was browsing around the web looking for replacement sensors and I noticed that they all have 3 pin connectors, yet my particular sensor has an EV1 type connector (like my injectors).
And after shutting off the engine i attempted to restart, but had dead batts.After a jump, with motor running ABS light mysteriously appeared and stayed on, then I began losing gauges, air con. Fuel spillage in the presence of an ignition source, presents the potential for a vehicle fire.
Anyway, I have too many projects one of which is my house - this is one of the items on the list to sell (you'll see I also have an old truck for sale).
ThanksCustomer: ????I looked at my fuse box and the area you have circled is empty and also dosent have and leads in the port to except a fuse. So, here are the details; I purchased this bike from Florida, and it has some pitting here and there which would have to be addressed.
Basically what's happening is your other tank is pumping gas into both the motor and the leaking tank.
Also if the sensor is damaged I imagine the ECU defaults to some very conservative timing schedule to prevent damage?
Dieseljunky2 : Can you give me the production date of your truck off the sticker in the door or the full vin number? The trans was replaced 2 month ago with a brand new factory replacement By an authorized installer also.
ThanksDieseljunky2 : One other thing, this is a picture of the fuse box in the dash, not the one under the hood. You are wanting to check for battery power with the key off on the main battery wire (red) at the alternator to make sure it has power. I have a whole write-up on how to start these bikes, and they go on the first kick (This one will probably not since it hasn't run in a while).
Now turn on the key and see if you get power on the light green with red stripe wire, still with the connector unplugged. If you can check these and then get back to me with the results, I can continue the diagnostic process.
Thanks Full Size ImageCustomer: what is supposed to happen is it supposed to pop the fuse or not? Grounding the wire will only turn on the battery light in the dash if the system is operating correctly.

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