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Remove the grass from the area under your deck, lay down landscape fabric, and cover it with approximately 2 inches of decorative stone.
Cut 4 x 4 posts (A) to about 4 inches longer than what is needed for the deck to attach the posts. To conceal the treated deck framing, use cedar 1 x 12s around the perimeter (Project Diagram, Drawing 6). Cut the remaining deck boards to fit each quadrant and install with screws (Photo 10; Project Diagram, Drawing 7). With the decking complete, allow the deck materials to dry for one month before applying a preservative. Built with composite decking and hidden fasteners, this maintenance-free backyard deck is designed to go together fast and to fit in anywhere in the yard, without footings or ledger boards.
Stretch a mason's string between stakes at the high and low point, then hang a line level on the string and move it up and down to establish level.
The soil near the foundation of a new home -- soil that was backfilled after the concrete basement was poured -- is unstable. Inexpensive pressure-treated lumber is used for the visible parts -- the decking, benches, and planter -- and the structural members. Call your local building code enforcement office to discuss footing depth, deck location limits, if you need a weed barrier under your deck, handrail requirements, necessary permits, and what inspections will be needed along the way when building your project. Check any neighborhood conveyances or covenants for special rules in your neighborhood governing the deck you intend to build.


Once you have an idea where your deck can be located, call 811 for a free service to locate underground utilities. After the hole centers are marked with a stake, you can pull down the string lines, but leave the batter boards in place for later. With the holes dug, mix enough concrete to fill the five holes -- one in each corner and one in the middle of the deck. This will keep the area under the deck looking nice and prevent grass from growing below the deck. Then cut the deck ends (B) and sides (C) (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram) to fit the project as you proceed to account for any variances. These pieces, the long filler (G) and short filler (H) (Project Diagram, Drawing 6), support the ends of the deck boards and the edges of the perimeter deck boards. Mark the center of each side of the deck and then cut the ends of the short fascia (I) and long fascia (J) at 45-degree angles. Lay the boards in each section, they may need to be slightly gapped to create and even deck pattern without the need to rip a narrow board to fill any gap. Whether you’re catching up with friends over a grilled dinner in the evening or are curled up with a book in a lounge chair on a sunny afternoon, a deck is the perfect place to be. Many decks made of pressure-treated lumber lose their looks: The wood warps, splits, and turns an ugly gray. Make the tops of the footings even with the ground at each hole (Project Diagram, Drawing 2).


With the help of a friend, clamp the rim boards so their bottom edges are 2 inches above the ground at the highest point of the ground. Clamp them to the deck and mark the corners of the deck where they need to be mitered to wrap the deck (Photo 6).
These are a series of decks connected by stairways or walkways, which are aesthetically pleasing and can be used for different purposes. To avoid the time, effort, and expense of such deep footings, this plan makes use of heavy-duty beams that rest on footings placed farther away from the house. But with a little extra care a treated-wood deck can look great for many years.Choose boards that are straight, dry, and free of large knots. Once each board is level and flush with the adjoining boards, drive 3-inch deck screws to hold them in position. One level can be used to catch the sun, one level can be positioned for shade and another can be set close to the house for entertaining and barbecuing.



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