17.12.2014

Car battery cable junction box youtube,car batteries 18966,cost of electric vehicle battery replacement - Plans Download

Author: admin  //  Category: Lead Acid Battery Manufacturers


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By submitting your bid, you'll be contractually committing to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder. By submitting your bid, you're committing to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder.
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By clicking Confirm, you're committing to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder and have read and agree to the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. By clicking 1 Click Bid, you are agreeing to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder. By registering not only can you take part in the forum, it will also remove most of the adverts. The front suspension (drivers side) after being stripped & rebuilt - the shocks are inboard on these cars so not visible in this photo. Passengers side front suspension before I started stripping it - lots of surface rust but no serious corrosion. The interior - quite a comfortable place to be if you can live the cacophony of rattles, creaks & squeaks! This is how I hope it'll end up looking one day - one of the alloys I got for Chrimbo last year is offered up for effect. Here we have the car being examined by my friendly neighbourhood garage (now sadly closed down) when I first got it back home after buying it.
A pic showing the general state of the chassis - over the years it's been well protected with waxoil (or some such gloopy, gungy, black stuff) but this is now starting to wear off a bit - hence you can see the beginnings of rust. About a month ago I dropped the car off at the welders so that they could replace both sills & do any other repairs to the chassis as necessary. Here’s a shot of the passengers side sill after the door & both wings have been removed – doesn’t look too good does it?
The front outrigger again but this time with new metal welded in & the old jacking point removed. Here you can see the state the old jacking point was in - I jacked the car up on this many times without any problems.
One shiny (well it’s not that shiny actually because it’s galvanised) sill section in place. As I'm planning to fit a larger engine into my SS1 it seems sensible to make as much space as possible in the engine bay.


I used a junction box in the engine bay to connect the original battery positive cable to the new length of cable which will run to the back of the car. I ran the new cable under the fuse box & through the big bulkhead grommet that the main loom passes through. This shot hopefully shows the route of the cable through the car - it also shows the p-clips I used to fasten the cable down.
The rear bulkhead caused me a problem as it was too thick for any of the grommets I had, so I made a little metal plate (thin enough to take the grommet) to pass the cable through. I secured it to the chassis to the rear of the diff with a p-clip & then passed it through a hole I drilled in the boot liner. Here it is all finished – I don’t have a picture of it but I’ve since made a false floor for the boot out of wood which hides the battery.
Here we can see my friend Mohammed (he’s car mad!) bent double over the front of the car spannering away like a good ‘un! That’s all the pics for now – apologies for them not being very good but I had other things on my mind. If the item comes direct from a manufacturer, it may be delivered in non-retail packaging, such as a plain or unprinted box or plastic bag.
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Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase your maximum bid amount. It may not display this or other websites correctly.You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Corrosion can affect these cars badly - anywhere can rust & there are well documented cases of wishbones cracking around the balljoint mounting with, obviously, disastrous consequences.
Stripping the back end down like this also allowed me to sort the wiring to the rear lights out. The chap on the right with the inspection light is the MOT tester who I'm quite friendly with.
Close up of the rear of the sill - showing rust in the sill section & also part way up the B post. I never used the jack alone though & always added an axle stand under the front outrigger. I then ran the cable down the left hand tank strap, protected it with some heater hose & secured it to the strap with a couple of cable ties.
We did think we were going to have problems clearing the front cross-member but we then realised that it was removable (thank you Reliant!) which made the job much easier.


No shots of the engine being actually hoisted I’m afraid as it took all 4 of us to guide it out of the engine bay!
This was easily removed with an oil filter chain wrench – unfortunately the driver’s side mount was seized so had to be cut away leaving the backing plate (which has the stud that screws into the threaded hole welded to it).
It gave up without too much of a fight so I’m now left with a totally engineless car which is, at least, easy to push in & out of the garage! I’ll post some more when I’ve cleaned the engine bay up – which will be a filthy horrible job!
If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. Any goods that have been fitted or are no longer in a saleable condition will not be accepted unless there has been prior arrangement made before the returns process has been started. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. In fact a lot of it is beginning to flake off on its own - it may well be horrible stuff but I hate to think what state the car would have been in had it not been applied. I’ll post some pictures of that little lot when I’ve managed to upload them to Photobucket. Once the cross member was out of the way it was all plain sailing & engine was out in about 15 mins. We (the Seller) are not responsible for any consequential loss or damages to items purchased or any labour claims.
Refund of purchase price less postage will be refunded by the same method as the payment was made. Also the headlights work, which is important as the mechanisms are s0ds to strip down & put back together apparently. I stripped the front end down last winter so the back end will get the same treatment this winter - I'll have to take shares out in black hammerite I think! I did want to trial fit the new engine but there really wasn’t any time (or light) left so we called it a day. I’ve bought some engine degreaser (Gunk from Halfraud's) so I’ll have a go with that tomorrow evening - it was too cold last night! The lack of galvanising meant that the sills were shot as were the lower parts of the A & B posts.



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