Vehicle battery problems 7.1.2,replace car key battery honda eu3000is,install a second battery in car remote,electrolyte water car battery jumper - Review

11.06.2014
Any automobile comprises of various electrical systems and parts that work in coalition for the overall automobile to work efficiently.
Moreover, it undertakes an important function of recharging the battery, without which any automobile cannot work. However, if the alternator is damaged, yet hasn’t shut off completely, then you can diagnose it easily. You can either jump start it, or if you are on a slope driving down then getting it on the second gear and starting the vehicle is another alternative. Alternator problems are easy to diagnose, and if well educated about the vehicle, mechanics can easily repair it. When you attempt to start the vehicle, the cranking of the engine is sluggish and takes longer than normal to start. If your battery casing looks like this you can blame excessive heat for causing your battery case to swell, decreasing your battery life.
Your battery can last well beyond three years but, at the very least, have its current condition inspected on a yearly basis when it reaches the three year mark.
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Use our Virtual Battery Tester and discover how long a car battery will typically last in your specific make and model vehicle. Slow engine crank: When you attempt to start the vehicle, the cranking of the engine is sluggish and takes longer than normal to start.
Check engine light: The check engine light sometimes appears when your battery power is weak.
The swelling, bloating battery case: If your battery casing looks like it ate a very large meal, this could indicate a battery gone bad.
Car batteries can be temperamental at the best of times – especially in old cars – but during the winter months a flat battery is the biggest cause of breakdowns. Cold weather is really bad for your car’s battery because it slows down the chemical reactions that cause your engine to roar into life. However, this isn’t something that you have to put up with as there are a number of ways you can protect your battery against failure during the winter. Assessing the age of your car’s battery is really important before the really cold weather hits. Starting the car with the heaters and radio on can take valuable power away from the engine, preventing it from being able to start. If you don’t use your car a lot and it’ll be in storage for the majority of the winter then it’s a good idea to disconnect the battery so that the cold weather doesn’t cause it to degrade. Be sure the electrical system is charging at the correct rate; overcharging can damage a battery as quickly as undercharging.
If your battery is the type that needs to be topped off, check it regularly, especially in hot weather.
One major thing to remember is to have your battery and electrical system professionally tested every three to six months. Click here to learn more about our lithium battery testing services in electric and hybrid electric vehicles.
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This article applies to the Ford F-150 (2004-2014) and F-250, F-350 Super Duty (2005-2014). Your car will not take you anywhere without the battery, so knowing how to replace your battery will help get you back on the road quicker and cheaper. Don’t touch any wrenches between the battery terminal and any other part of your vehicle. Read your owner’s manual to determine if there is a reset procedure for your vehicle, expecially if it has a Battery Monitoring System (BMS). Remove the negative terminal first and then remove the positive terminal by holding onto the rubber tubing and not the exposed metal terminal to avoid shock. Install the new battery by placing the battery back in the tray, tighten the clamps, and attach the cables starting with the positive one first. If you go to turn the key but the motor isn't turning over on your Ford F-150, you may have a bad starter.
If your truck is rumblin' and stumblin' at idle, it is time to service the idle air control (IAC) valve. This article applies to the Ford F-150 (2004-2014), and the F-250, F-350 Super Duty (2005-2014).
The F-150 is a hard working truck, except for when it fails on the job and refuses to start.
Spark plug wires can affect your Ford F-150 or Super Duty in ways that will keep you scratching your head. Any actual physical damage to the body of the battery means that you should replace the entire unit at your earliest possible opportunity.
In order to make sure your battery is in good condition you should check the top of your battery for dirt and electrolyte.
One of the best ways to find out if your starter is bad is to have it "bench tested" at a parts store. When you buy a new or rebuilt starter, compare the old and new units to make sure the replacement starter is the correct one for your vehicle.
Because most of the starters that are sold in the aftermarket today are remanufactured units, you can usually exchange your old starter for a partial credit against the price of the new starter. If the answer is, "Nothing," you should check the battery, battery terminals, battery cables and ignition circuit to make sure voltage is reaching the starter. Starter problems can be caused by worn brushes (carbon pads inside the motor that supply current to the rotating armature), by shorts or opens in the armature or field coils or by worn bushings that increase drag or allow the armature shaft to rub against the pole shoes. Continuous and prolonged cranking is very hard on a starter motor because it generates excessive heat.
A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 250 amps under load (while cranking the engine). Excessive starter draw can be caused by high resistance within the starter itself, worn brushes, or grounds or opens in the armature or coil windings. Sometimes the starter motor works fine but the drive gear won't engage the ring gear on the flywheel.
If the starter tests okay but fails to crank, another possible cause may be a bad ignition switch, neutral safety switch or clutch safety switch. The charging system consists of an alternator (that generates electricity), a voltage regulator (that controls the alternator's output) and the battery (that stores amps).
There are zillions of different OEM part numbers for alternators, so aftermarket suppliers try to consolidate applications as much as possible. What's really important is how the alternator is wired (A-circuit, B-circuit or I-circuit), the type of voltage regulation (external regulator, internal regulator or computer-controlled regulation) and the physical hookups (bolt hole locations and indexing, wiring connectors and pulley dimensions). Type "B" circuits have an internally grounded field with one brush connected to battery negative and the regulator switching between field and positive to control output. When an A-circuit regulator loses positive voltage, the alternator will overcharge if the field still has power.


A replacement alternator doesn't necessarily have to look the same as the original, but it must function the same electrically, have the same pulley dimensions and be a bolt-in replacement. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage.
The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the vehicle's electrical system, and temperature. Charging output of the alternator can also be checked with an adjustable carbon pile, voltmeter and ammeter. Warning: Never disconnect a battery cable while the engine is running to "test" the alternator. NOTE: If a vehicle has a history of repeat alternator failures, it might mean the battery is not building up normal resistance as it accepts a charge. One way to check the integrity of the alternator and diodes on Bosch alternators is to check the voltage readings at the D+ (blue wire) terminal and B+ terminal. Bosch does not recommend full fielding as a procedure for testing alternator output because full fielding may damage onboard electronics. If the alternator or regulator fails, the battery will run down and the vehicle may not crank or start. Low alternator output can be caused by a slipping drive belt (it takes up to five horsepower to turn some alternators), one or more defective diodes in the alternator's rectifier assembly or a defective voltage regulator. Many alternators are replaced unnecessarily or are returned because of misdiagnosed charging problems.
On some Japanese applications, it's not unusual to find several different alternators used on the same vehicle.
Additional items that may also need to be replaced to ensure proper operation of the charging system include the battery cables and drive belt.
Neither the starter, nor alternator will function properly if the battery is low or worn out.
A fully charged battery should read 12.66 volts with the key off and no electrical load on the battery.
If the charging system is functioning normally, but the battery fails to hold a charge, it may mean your battery has reached the end of its service life and needs to be replaced.
If you need a new battery, the replacement battery must have an amp capacity that equals or exceeds the OEM cold cranking amp (CCA) requirements. The battery cables should be cleaned and inspected or replaced if found to be badly corroded, loose or damaged. Electrical issues if any, might take some time to find the source of problem, however, commonly damaged or malfunctioning component of the automobile is the alternator. It is an electrical system, which ones powered lights up and gives energy to various parts of the automobile, including stereo and the lights. If the alternator goes at fault while you’re driving, then it might result in losing power either slowly or quickly, depending on how much the alternator has damaged. However, one thing you should understand is that, since the alternator recharges the battery it is important to understand that your vehicle cannot travel a long distance. We run network of high quality 50+ high niche websites with millions of regular visitors, Please connect with us. The most common way a battery will drain overnight is by leaving a light on or a power adapter plugged in, zapping all your battery power while you’re fast asleep. If this might be the case, let us check it out so we can resolve the problem and get you rolling again. You can blame excessive heat for causing your battery case to swell, decreasing your battery life. There’s not a lot that’s more annoying than waking up on a dark, cold winter morning and having to defrost and then jump start your car because the battery’s died overnight.
Even though your vehicle’s battery is perfectly capable of functioning in all kinds of weather, sometimes the cold can degrade even the most high-quality batteries and render them useless.
Most car batteries will last between five and ten years so if your car is several years old and still running on the original battery, it might be an idea to have it checked and potentially changed before you find yourself late for work one morning. Corrosion around the battery can be caused by a fault that allows the battery acid to leak and corrode the areas that it touches.
Using in-car accessories such as these when trying to start the car takes power away from the alternator which, on cold winter mornings, needs all of its energy to be concentrated on charging the battery.
A lot of people don’t realise that useful in-car devices like clocks, temperature gauges and the alarm system continue to drain the battery of power so if you won’t be driving it enough to recharge the battery then it’s likely to be flat when you return to it. The Car Care Council advises vehicle owners to have their cars’ batteries tested periodically and replaced, if necessary, to avoid being stranded. Heat causes battery fluid to evaporate, which then damages the internal structure of the battery. Wear rubber gloves and keep them and the battery away from your clothes so the acid doesn’t destroy them. Whilst a failing battery will not generally result in your car breaking down on the road, it will prevent your vehicle from being started.
Damaged batteries can leak in the engine and corrode other parts, so any sign that the battery’s casing is not in good condition should be taken seriously. Too much electrolyte on the top of the battery is usually caused by overfilling and is not a cause for concern – rather a sign that you should be more careful next time you fill your battery. As these batteries use a mix of water and acid in the cells to form the electrolyte the water can evaporate during the summer months. Usually you will only have to add distilled water to the battery and if you see that a cell has run completely dry then you should check the battery to make sure there are no cracks in the casing.
If the battery is low or has corroded terminals or loose cable connections, the starter may not crank because of low voltage. Most older vehicles have a rather large, heavy starter motor that has field coils around an armature.
If not allowed to cool down every 30 seconds or so for at least a couple of minutes, the starter will be damaged by continuous cranking. Using a battery and a pair of cables to jump the starter will only tell you if it spins, not how many amps it is drawing or how fast it is cranking. It can also result from increased internal friction due to shaft bushings that bind or an armature that is rubbing against the housing (if the starter is noisy, it's probably dragging).
If the drive gear mechanism can be replaced separately, there's no need to replace the entire starter.
The charging system's job is to keep the battery fully charged, and to supply voltage to meet the vehicle's electrical needs.
These must be replaced, or over time the battery will eventually run down each time the engine is started and driven. One brush is connected to positive battery voltage, and the regulator switches between field and negative to control output.
With consolidated applications, it is sometimes necessary to modify or change the wiring connectors as well. The lower the temperature the higher the charging voltage, and the higher the temperature the lower the charging voltage.
The carbon pile is attached to the battery and adjusted to obtain maximum output while the engine is running at 2000 rpm.


With the engine idling and no load on the charging system (lights and all accessories off, battery fully charged), the amperage output should be relatively low (typically less than 10 amps).
Doing so can cause high voltage spikes that can damage the alternator as well as other electronics. This, in turn, makes the alternator keep charging the battery at a higher than normal rate.
Observing the "ripple voltage" pattern will tell you at a glance whether or not all the alternator windings are functioning. Low voltage or amperage output from the charging system will usually cause the alternator warning light to glow, the dash voltmeter to read low, the dash ammeter to show discharge or the Check Engine light to come on. Loss of alternator output can be caused by a broken drive belt, loose, broken or corroded wiring connections, electrical failures within the alternator or regulator, or a bad external regulator ground or voltage connection. Average battery life under the best circumstances is four to five years, and is as low as three years in really hot climates.
Load testing a battery or using an electronic tester to test the battery's amp capacity should reveal the health of the battery. The group size (height, width and length) must also fit the battery tray in the vehicle, and the posts must have the same configuration. Installing chemically treated anti-corrosion felt washers under the battery cables will help keep the connections corrosion-free. Many a times, starting the car is possible even if the alternator isn’t functioning well. Alternators generally cost around $250 and looks like a big ball made of copper wire surrounded by a metal cage.
In order to avoid a problem like this, it’s essential to check the battery regularly, if there are any leakages then you need to make sure you clean away any corrosive residue and ensure that the battery compartment is correctly sealed. If this is likely to be the case over the winter then it’s a good idea to disconnect the battery in order to reserve its power before you put your car into storage. A malfunctioning component in the charging system, usually the voltage regulator, allows too high a charging rate, which will eventually destroy a battery. We’d always advise that you do a quick visual inspection of your battery any time you open the bonnet of your car to check the oil, top up brake fluid or refill the car’s water tank. Equally you should replace frayed, worn or broken cables as soon as possible as these are a vital part of the engine’s starting system, carrying the charge that’s used to start the combustion process.
However, you will need to remove any dirt from the top of the battery as this can form an electrical bridge that can cause the battery to discharge when the vehicle is at a standstill. Also never add acid to a cell that already contains electrolyte – this can damage the electrical balance of the battery and cause failure. If the solenoid that energizes the starter motor is faulty or has loose electrical connections, it will prevent the starter from cranking, too.
On newer vehicles, the size of the starter motor has been downsized either by using permanent magnets in place of field coils, or by using reduction gears to multiply the torque produced by a smaller motor. To accurately test a starter, a test stand that can measure amp load, voltage and rpm is required.
As soon as the engine starts, the charging system automatically senses the need for amps and starts recharging the battery.
In addition to the normal armature terminal that serves as the charge output terminal, it has a second armature terminal normally marked "A2" that serves as the ground return.
With the headlights and heater blower fan on and the engine running at 2000 rpm, the output should jump to a higher reading, typically 25 to 30 amps or more.
The result is that the alternator runs hot, overheats and eventually fails from being over worked. A difference of more than one volt would indicate faulty diodes and the need to replace the alternator.
If the battery tests okay, the battery may be running down because of a parasitic electrical load. Any of these if not in working condition, can hamper the overall functioning of the automobile. A lot of times, waiting until the deep freeze of winter to replace your battery is often too late. But because batteries can do stuff when we’re not looking, we need to help them go the distance. This will help the blanket generate enough heat to prevent the battery from freezing and therefore ensuring it works the next morning. Your car battery lives 2 to 3 years, and if it lives longer, you should be ready with a replacement. This way you should be able to anticipate any problems with the battery before they happen, preventing that awkward moment in the morning where your car won’t start.
Finally take a look at the fixings for the battery – any looseness could allow the battery to vibrate and the connections could be dislodged. Use a screwdriver to pull of the cell cover to inspect the electrolyte levels – this should be well above the plates.
As a rule, permanent magnet and gear reduction starters are more expensive units to replace. It also produces as many additional amps as are needed to keep the ignition system, fuel injectors and electrical accessories running. This type of unit works like an "A" circuit unit and is tested and polarized in the same way, except that the "A2" terminal is used instead of the "A" terminal.
If any of the humps are missing, it means one or more of the windings is grounded or open, or there's a bad diode.
A trunk light that remains on, a relay that remains energized, etc, can all create a steady drain on the battery that will run it down. In case you are well versed with attachment and wiring, it can be advisable to repair the alternator on your own. So if your lights are dim, your car sounds weak when you're starting it, or if you are not getting any power at all, it means it's time for you to read this article and change your battery. Permanent magnet starters must also be handled with care because the magnets can be easily cracked and ruined if the starter is dropped on a hard surface. It may be mounted on the starter or located elsewhere in the engine compartment and is usually connected to the positive battery cable. Also, have the replacement alternator bench tested before you leave the parts store to confirm it is delivering the proper voltage and current. If the fluid does not reach this level then you should add distilled water – not tap water due to impurities within the liquid – to bring it up to the normal required level. Corrosion, poor ground at the solenoid mount or poor battery cable connections will prevent the solenoid from doing its job. When you add the water only use a plastic container or funnel as a metal one could touch the plates and cause the battery to discharge rapidly, which could injure you.
If something is awry, Firestone Complete Auto Care technicians are pros at delivering a fix.



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