Repair dead sealed lead acid battery 12v,deep cycle battery hydrometer 775,gateway laptop blue battery light,deep cycle battery rate of discharge - Try Out

09.01.2014
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Plastic pipette - Any device which can suck up and dispense water into narrow places will do. I pried off the caps to each cell and placed them to the side which gives free access to the interior of each cell. Once the fluid had been topped up, I replaced the caps and began trying to charge the battery.
In this case, the battery took charge at about 0.3A indefinitely but did not actually store any charge. In the end, I built a small charge controller circuit to limit voltage and current but the original battery was beyond repair. This means that if they have been damaged by ovecharging and have dried out then it is problematic to restore them. This was held on with just some glue and snapped off relatively easily with some forecful jabbing from a screwdriver. There are lead plates which in the case of this battery are heavily sulphated, indicating a poor level of charge. The grey lead plate in the middle of the sandwich inside the lower cell is clear as are the thick layers of white lead sulphate on either side of it.


The surface of the water is visibile above the top of the lead plates, even if it doesn't photograph well. It's very important to make sure that the caps are back on before charging and that the top of the battery is covered!
Gas was evolved during the charging process because the caps popped off under the paper towel but the battery was not able to light the torch for any time.
Ironically it is possible to do this damage in the first place because they aren't completely sealed.
In the highly charged state, a lead acid battery will revert to lead and sulphuric acid, only becoming lead sulphate when discharged. Whilst the torch was apart I looked at the charge control circuitry and discovered that it wasn't controlling the charge at all! It's quite difficult to photograph the inside of the cells but the photo below is good enough to see that there is no liquid above the plates. Instead, it was applying the full 18.6 volts from the transformer straight across the battery - a sure fire way to destroy it over the time that I had been using the battery (a couple of years of light use). In a battery in a good state of repair, the liquid level is usually up near the top of the cells, or more often over the top of the plates. Unlike gel cell batteries that use a gelled electrolyte, AGM batteries still use the common water/acid electrolyte mixture, just like regular flooded cell batteries (such as the one in your car). If a lead-acid battery is charged too much then the water contained within them can electrolyse to hydrogen and oxygen.


The difference is that AGM batteries have fiberglass matting sandwiched in between the lead plates.
If the charging isn't too rapid then the hydrogen and oxygen recombine within the cell and re-form to water: no harm done. One is the matting prevents the electrolyte from sloshing around and spilling out in case the battery is inverted or put on its side.
However, if the charging is far too rapid, the gases are lost around the rubber caps leading to a lower electrolyte level.
Another is that the plates can be made with a purer lead (which is softer and needs extra support) that permits higher efficiency.
A flooded cell battery does not have this feature and typically the hydrogen and oxygen simply vent into the atmosphere.
Over time this causes the electrolyte level to drop, thus preventing the battery from attaining full charge. Contrary to common belief, you actually can maintain these types of batteries, it just is not very common and the manufacturers would rather you didn't for a number of reasons. It is actually very easy to do as long as you are not squeamish about partially tearing your batteries apart.




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