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ACCESSING THE SENSOR WIRES - The main power connection: The three sensor connectors sit above the positive and negative wires. FINDING THE FOURTH SENSOR - The fourth sensor connector sits below the main positive and negative wires.
THE REMOVED CIRCUIT BREAKER ASSEMBLY - Take care to keep track of the twenty 10 mm bolts and temperature sensor wire routing; note the four round metal spacers—where the circuit breaker makes its electrical connections to the sticks.
REMOVING STICKS FROM THEIR HOUSING - The orange bus bar and some of the sticks are removed. IntermediateReconditioning NiMh hybrid car battery packs is time-consuming—you cannot rush it! But besides the car’s computer spewing some error codes, it also had performance issues suggesting expensive battery problems.
The Honda dealership wanted $3,200 to replace the battery pack with a factory-refurbished one (new cells are not available for a Civic Hybrid of that vintage). The root of the batteries’ underperformance had to do with the nickel metal hydride (NiMH) cells getting warm from discharging and charging.
Hybrid car blogs published plenty of warnings about getting electrocuted from the batteries. That single location is easily found with a multimeter, and once you turn off the IMA pack’s built-in circuit breaker and start unbolting the individual subpacks, the risk drops significantly since the sticks are only about 8 V each. Remove the metal main battery box cover (six bolts, #30 Torx) and slide the entire cover up an inch or two to release the two metal fingers on the extreme right and left of the cover.
Inside the battery box, remove the three 10 mm bolts that hold the two main IMA power wires and ground wire for the battery pack. Use the existing carry straps to lift it, being careful not to get tangled up with any wires.
I set up my work area in the living room, since it is climate-controlled and well-illuminated.
You cannot disassemble the sticks—they are welded together in groups of six cells and tightly wrapped in yellow plastic. Be careful of the small sensor wires attached to three of the sticks—they pull apart easily and are a major pain to put back again.
Deep cycling has always been the method of minimizing, and somewhat repairing, memory issues.
Follow the charger manufacturer’s instructions for setting up your reconditioner for NiMh cells. The iMax B6 is made for small, radio-controlled batteries, and with light loading to keep the cells from getting too hot, the IMA conditioning process is lengthy. If the stick is working right, it will feel slightly warmer than room temperature and all the cells will be the same temperature during the process.
At the end of a month of reconditioning, six bad sticks—out of the 20 in the pack—showed up, which explained a lot as to why the car functioned so poorly. Failing IMA packs can also cause seemingly unrelated computer errors, like oxygen sensor failures and a 12 V battery error. A study of product plans from major car makers reveals that hybrids are just getting started. As more aftermarket plug-in upgrades hit the market, the author takes the plunge on one kit and explores its successes and failures.
I have used aftermarkets in packs, and they fit as well as the OEM, so I trust those numbers.

I have Chinese speaking managers where I work, so I can ask for their assist if their is a language problem.
Additionally, to give you a reference, MOST of the 20 sticks in the Insight pack from the battery builder are showing issues that will inhibit long-term trouble-free function, but will likely function well with periodic grid charging and discharging. If your IMA system has recently failed, and you still have partial function, grid charging and discharging could enable another 1-2 years of good function.
If you're still going the China route, avoid anything that looks anything like "KingKong" batteries.
There are no viable Chinese replacements for 2006-2011 due to the fact they the Honda sticks are welded in pairs. I have two of these cars that I love (getting in excess of 40 mph on both) so I have a vested interest in figuring out how to fix this problem. Since I have a spare battery pack I want to start on that one and get it all re-balanced or identify the bad sticks.
There are three 10 mm bolts, one on either side of the seat (as shown) and one near the middle of the seat. Make sure it’s in the “off” position and remove the red plastic safety cover, breaking off the plastic pin. However, if you have the patience, reconditioning them yourself can save you more than 90% of the cost of having a car a dealer do the job.
It was not something I needed, but it did have only 110,000 miles on the odometer and some nice custom features—and it was cheap!
The car was very sluggish and its mpg had dropped off—from more than 50 mpg to 35 to 40 mpg. Replacement battery packs are made from dead packs dealers return to Honda, which recovers the remaining good subpacks for reuse. After thousands of cycles, the fine nickel powder inside starts to form larger nickel crystals, which eventually impede the electrons from flowing.
Because this project can take several weeks of charging, you may need a second car to drive until the project is completed. Since this was new territory for me, I took this advice seriously—but there is only one place on a battery pack where any real hazard exists: from voltage across the full pack, which can be up to 180 VDC. Finding that you need to move the car after you’ve removed the battery pack is a real bummer, since the car will not move under its own power without a working battery pack. Then take off the small cover over the battery box’s circuit breaker (two bolts, #30 Torx), remove its red plastic safety cover and turn off the circuit breaker. If you disconnect the 12 V battery (yes, there is a standard car battery, too) in the engine compartment, even that small hazard is eliminated. Take a few photos as you go along so you remember where everything goes in a month (or two) after completion. Find an organizable work area, because there will be no less than 90 assorted bolts and screws holding the pack together. These three sticks can only be removed from the frame by firmly pushing them from right to left (looking at the pack as it would be in the car).
The default settings for each type of battery (which are already programmed into the charger) seem to work well enough.
Have a pad of paper and pen handy to record the values the screen displays at the end of each programmed cycle to track how each stick performed. But before the lengthy cycling process starts, set the machine for a minimum of three discharge-charge cycles. Multiply that by 20 sticks and you can quickly see that reconditioning the entire pack will take 25 days of round-the-clock reconditioning.
But it does get the job done with IMA sticks too, and it is less expensive than similar devices. It should also charge to about 6,400 mAh when full and do it in a bit more than one hour from a minimal state of charge (0.8 V per cell). Very odd discharge characteristics in some sticks will drag down the better ones, causing the dreaded IMA warning light to come on sooner than it would otherwise. Each failed stick was either excessively slow to charge or only at a partial charge after the machine said it was done. I had to replace 30% of my battery pack and the most cost-effective way was to buy a junkyard battery pack and put it through the same charge-discharge process to find its good sticks. The 12 V battery charges from the IMA pack through a DC-to-DC converter—my best guess is that the car’s computer uses it as a reference voltage to judge how well some of the car’s other sensors are working.
After 10 years working at the Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse as a consultant, he retired to tinkering full-time. Your success or failure will be determined in how long it takes before you start to recalibrate again. I tried to run for 3 cycle automatically but every time when it charges 6500mAh it stops and do not start to discharge automatically and i have to start it again for discharging .
Plus, it had been well-maintained: All the dealer checkups and service had been properly performed.

If the crystals get big enough, they can puncture the separators between the positive and negative sides of the cell, shorting the cell. The terminal bolts and other fasteners are arranged so that it is easy to avoid touching two ends of any higher-voltage terminals at the same time. The 180 VDC electrical hazard is now gone—the breaker separates about 40% of the sticks from the rest of the pack.
To do this, disconnect the cable at the negative battery post and insulate the end completely with electrical tape or a similar insulating material. Then remove the four 12 mm bolts that hold the battery pack in the metal box (two on the top of the pack and two on the bottom).
Remove each stick from the plastic holding frame to allow for easy judging of how warm each cell gets as reconditioning proceeds. The sensor wires are not very long, so carefully bend them so the sticks they are attached to are not pulling on them.
Its computer brain monitors the cycling cells to optimize breaking up the microscopic nickel “crystals” that form as a cell ages with use.
But I changed the minimum cell state on mine to 0.8 V per cell, just to get a little deeper discharge and, hopefully, a more functional battery in the end. My iMax can do up to five cycles automatically, but you don’t really need to spend that much time on each stick to sort the good from the bad.
Try to time your “starts and stops” so that the charger alarm doesn’t wake you up in the middle of the night, though the alarm can be turned off.
If all goes well, the final numbers in the display will be about 6,400 mAh charged, and 5,700 to 6,100 mAh discharged.
However, a 100 to 400 mAh difference will not present a significant problem to the car’s computer.
During cycling, poorly performing sticks will also get much warmer than correctly performing ones.
This took another 25 days, but was well worth the effort—the car now runs like new, gets 50 to 55 mpg on the highway again, and all the computer errors have vanished.
I do believe the batteries are rated 6500 mAh for 05 civic hybrid but my charger just keeps charging and stops exactly at my capacity cut off set of 6500mAh.
There is at least one third-party that claims to do the same thing for $1,250, but you have to sell him your old battery pack first, which he uses for salvageable parts.
Common sense coupled with basic mechanical skills meet most everything else you come across during this task. This is safer than disconnecting the positive side and less likely to create a short to the chassis. Remember (and take photos of) how the wires are routed around the pack and where their little holders snap together. The reconditioning is not perfect and will never make the cell factory-fresh again, but it does go far in making the cell work as well as it can.
Do not discharge them too far, which can cause cell polarity reversal, which means you end up with a dead stick! With the good sticks, more than three cycles does not necessarily make the stick perform significantly better. If you have any sticks that vary greatly from these values, treat them with suspicion and mark them as problematic. I also have 12 good spare sticks for the next time I need to do this—probably in three to four years, judging by how long the original battery lasted before the computer errors showed up. The few online bloggings from DIYers who tried reconditioning their own packs were not very insightful. In any case, continue to be careful not to bang up anything since replacing broken terminals or repairing cut wiring is a major and unnecessary chore. It weighs about 50 pounds and you will be stooped over in an awkward position, so protect your back and consider having a friend help with the lift. If a stick is somewhere “between” good and bad, then the cycling process often straightens it out nicely. However, by doing a lot of “reading between the lines,” I felt I learned enough to try my hand at refurbishing. If you do connect the charger in the wrong polarity, it is smart enough to scream at you and display “connection reversed” before any damage can be done to the cells.
Repeat the 12V disconnect and IMA charge to full SoC a total of 3 times (the last one usually takes under a minute).

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