Life battery charge voltage relationship,sealed lead acid battery charger design guide,taking corrosion off a car battery - Easy Way

Li-ion cannot absorb overcharge, and when fully charged the charge current must be cut off. Once the charge is terminated, the battery voltage begins to drop, and this eases the voltage stress. Relying on the closed circuit voltage (CCV) to read the available capacity during charge is impractical. Charging and discharging batteries is a chemical reaction, but Li-ion is claimed to be the exception.
The Li ion charger is a voltage-limiting device that has similarities to the lead acid system. Figure 1 shows the voltage and current signature as lithium-ion passes through the stages for constant current and topping charge.
Full charge occurs when the battery reaches the voltage threshold and the current drops to 3 percent of the rated current.
Li-ion does not need to be fully charged as is the case with lead acid, nor is it desirable to do so. Certain industrial chargers set the charge voltage threshold lower on purpose to prolong battery life. Estimating SoC by reading the voltage of a charging battery is impractical; measuring the open circuit voltage (OCV) after the battery has rested for a few hours is a better indicator. When lithium-ion batteries must be left in the charger for operational readiness, some chargers apply a brief topping charge to compensate for the small self-discharge the battery and its protective circuit consume.
Chargers for these non-cobalt-based Li-ions are not compatible with regular 3.60-volt Li-ion. Lithium-ion operates safely within the designated operating voltages; however, the battery becomes unstable if inadvertently charged to a higher than specified voltage. Turn off the device or disconnect the load on charge to allow the current to drop unhindered during saturation. Very usefull information here, good thing I fond this page first before designing a charger for my custom-made battery pack.
The Batery is connected circuit 3,6 volt constant (regulable according to load) and this support a circuit for memory and a processor primary.
Can lithium polymer cell phone batteries be over charged if left on charge to long and if left on to long will it diminish battery life. I would also like to brag of having had success restoring substantial capacity to the occasional cells that truly were worn.
What i have believed is keeping my laptop plugged in all the time at my desk and using the battery power in case of power failure or so.
A vendor of notebooks recently opposed and recommended to cycle discharges and recharges regularly to keep the battery healthy and prolong its life.
What i have believed is keeping my laptop plugged in all the time at my desk and using the battery power in case of power failure or so does no harm to my battery pack. These batteries have been run down for some time now and do charge, the manufacturer cannot replace them. How can the voltage be 2.4v when the minimum cell voltage for lithium batteries is 3.6v What should I buy to replace these? AFAIK Li-ion does not have memory effect and they have PMS circuit built-in so don’t overcharge.
I have a simple ARM7 gadget and I want to run it on the Li-ion batteries which are available cheap. Informative article but the voltage drop in stage 3 would indicate a cell in poor condition.
About 5 years ago I purchased 40 nearly unused 18X65 cells in 2 cell packs with protect circuit. Why can the the battery pack in a Tesla automobile be charged considerably faster when the charging unit is 240v vs.
Not all Li cells are the same so the numbers I use below are for the most common ones, some can be charged much faster. I am unable to decide which is better - to select a Li-ion battery pack with multiple cells or single cell.
We have limited information by how much lower charge voltages prolong battery life; this depends on many conditions, as we have learned. I would connect the solar panel and the battery with a voltage regulator or with a MPP circuit that fixed the output voltage adjusting the output current of the solar panel catching always the maximum power from it.
In conclusion the charging of the battery is done with a small and variable charge current.
One question: Would charging a Lithium battery with a higher amperage charger (but same voltage) cause any damage to the battery? Let’s face it, since us Toy Hauler owners mostly dry camp, our batteries are extremely important. The life of your deep cycle batteries will largely be affected by how it’s used and how it’s maintained. How a battery is used is probably the single most important factor on how long a battery will last. Most experts agree that you don’t want to let your battery’s state of charge get below 50%.
To measure the depth of discharge and other important metrics like current voltage, consumed amp hours, and time remaining, you may want to invest in a good digital battery monitor like the LinkPRO from Xantrex. Good battery maintenance includes making sure the water level never gets below the top of the lead plates. Subscribe to RSS or enter you email to receive newsletter for news, articles, and updates about what's new.
Time required to complete charging depends on factors such as depth of discharge of the battery, characteristics of the charger and ambient temperature. Never charge the battery in reverse, as it may cause leakage, heating or bursting of the battery. Recharge the battery before use to compensate for capacity loss due to self-discharge during storage.
As shown in the table above a stable voltage of 12.5 represents a battery in its fully charged state and in excellent condition. Protecting your caravan against theft or damage requires the right caravan insurance and security products. Top tips on how to carefully budget a new caravan and expert advice from the Financial Ombudsman Service. Some of our favourite caravan blogs from around the internet - all written by Caravan Talk members you can find on our forums.
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Caravan advice, reviews, reports and diaries from some of the most knowledgeable people in the industry. To maximise the life of the battery, it is advised you never let the charge drop below 50%. Leisure batteries with a voltage of below 11.81 should only be charged with a 4 stage charger otherwise damage to the plates may occur. For the most accurate results using this method of measuring the state of charge (SOC) the battery should have been rested for at least 6 hours - i.e not been charged or any load put on it. If the charger has a setting for AGM, use this setting to charge your Chrome Battery AGM battery. Bulk stage – the charger should deliver the initial current I1 until the voltage limit U0 is reached.
Absorption stage – the charger should maintain the voltage U0 until the current tapers to I2. Float stage and termination – the charger can maintain the current I1 indefinitely or until the charger is shut off or unplugged.
Bulk stage – the charger should deliver the initial current I1 until the voltage limit U0 is reached. Absorption stage – the charger should maintain the voltage U until the current tapers to I2. Thanks for your comments, with regards to the charging question of whether or not it is safe to charge a 20Ah battery with a 1amp charger it would be more than fine to do this, however if the battery was fully discharged it would take about 20 hours to fully charge the battery.
We are not to sure you will be able to revive this battery, however the best way to charge this is to have your 12Volt charger set at 2amp setting it should take about 4 hours to fully charge up this battery. Yes we would suggest a float or maintenance charger for your battery that way it will not drop that low again. To obtain maximum service life and capacity, along with acceptable recharge time and economy, constant voltage-current limited charging is recommended. As a result of too high a charge voltage excessive current will flow into the battery, after reaching full charge, causing decomposition of water in the electrolyte and premature aging.
If too low a charge voltage is applied, the current flow will essentially stop before the battery is fully charged.
Batteries which are stored in a discharge state, or left on the shelf for too long, may initially appear to be “open circuited” or will accept far less current than normal. Conversely for Gel batteries fitted close to the alternator (under-bonnet with a thick gauge cabling) there is a real risk of damage due to over-charging as the alternator output can be too high for the battery. Many Portable Generators do not have battery charging circuitry built-in and should be used with care if they provide a DC outlet (although you could plug a battery charger into the 240V socket, it seems a fairly inefficient way to operate). The later models (from Honda et al) with the built in chargers can provide a reasonably quick and efficient battery top-up on sites where they are allowed (or when off-site), although some users do grow tired of the noise and migrate to solar over time.
Part – or most – of the loss in charging and discharging batteries is due to internal resistance.
Typical efficiency in a lead-acid battery is 85-95%, in alkaline and NiCad battery it is about 65%. Gelled batteries, or “Gel Cells” contain acid that has been “gelled” by the addition of Silica Gel, turning the acid into a solid mass that looks like gooey Jell-O.
Starting (sometimes called SLI, for starting, lighting, ignition) batteries are commonly used to start and run engines. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates.
Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries. Marine batteries are usually a “hybrid”, and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, though a few (Rolls-Surrette and Concorde, for example) are true deep cycle. There is generally no problem with this, providing that allowance is made for the lower cranking amps compared to a similar size starting battery. Plate thickness (of the Positive plate) matters because of a factor called “positive grid corrosion”. The 20-hour rate is the most common for standardising batteries in Australia, while the USA uses a 10-hour rating system. The lifespan of a deep cycle battery will vary considerably with how it is used, how it is maintained and charged, temperature, and other factors.
These are some typical (minimum – maximum) typical expectations for batteries if used in deep cycle service. An inverter has basically two functions – to provide an alternating current (ac) voltage rather than the direct current (dc) available from the battery, and to raise the voltage up to an average of 240V.
Li-ion is fully charged when the current drops to a predetermined level or levels out at the end of Stage 2. A continuous trickle charge would cause plating of metallic lithium, and this could compromise safety.
The open circuit voltage (OCT) can, however, be used to predict state-of-charge after the battery has rested for a few hours.

Battery scientists talk about energies flowing in and out of the battery as part of ion movement between anode and cathode.
The differences with Li-ion lie in a higher voltage per cell, tighter voltage tolerances and the absence of trickle or float charge at full charge. Full charge is reached when the current decreases to between 3 and 5 percent of the Ah rating.
A battery is also considered fully charged if the current levels off and cannot go down further. Although the battery reaches the voltage peak quicker, the saturation charge will take longer accordingly.
Table 2 illustrates the estimated capacities when charged to different voltage thresholds with and without saturation charge.
The current drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and can distort the charge cycle. This allows the battery to reach the set voltage threshold and current saturation point unhindered. A fully charged battery has a lower thermal runaway temperature and will vent sooner than one that is partially charged.
Lead- and nickel-based batteries are also known to melt down and cause fire if improperly handled. The charge circuit is straight forward; voltage and current limitations are easier to accommodate than analyzing complex voltage signatures, which change as the battery ages.
Battery University monitors the comments and understands the importance of expressing perspectives and opinions in a shared forum. You’re alwais talking about a 4,2V like they are the the standardwhat about 3,6V cells? I looked on the internet for the issue and located most individuals will associate with together with your website. For instance I’ve been letting it hover around 40% by continually plugging and unplugging it. I think a constant voltage charge can be done but it takes a long time and must be done at a lower voltage. It was designed that way to account for commonly available power connections, commonly limited to 20A (use at < 80% of limit) at 120v but commonly available at 50 A or more at 240V. I know that my available curent and voltage at the time of charging will vary depending on the panel so in addition to overcharging I am wondering if capacitors to buffer power is necessary.
Following are some tips I’ve picked up over the years along with some products I think are worth a look. This is typically measured in the number of deep discharges and the average depth of each discharge.
The LinkPro can also be programmed to automatically start your generator when your batteries get to a pre-set limit. Since battery compartments are dark and usually cramped, I found the best way to accomplish this is to get an automatic watering system like the Pro-Fill system by Flow-Rite. Once hooked up all you need to do is pump distilled water from a jug with the included hand pump. All Rights Reserved.Toy Hauler Adventures provides the material on this site "as-is" and is not to beheld responsible or liable for use of the content or information. Relation between standard voltage value in constant voltage charging and temperature is given in the Table.
A battery's voltage always drops from its surface charged state of around 14.4 volts to around 12+ volts after about 30 minutes of non use. Share advice with our members and keep up with the latest caravanning developments on the forums. These are not expensive and small simple multimeters can usually be found for around £10 in electronic shops or big DIY stores. With the caravan 12 volt electrical system turned off, place the red lead on the positive terminal (+ve) and the black lead on the negative terminal (-ve). For the best charging performance when the leisure battery is not in use (over winter) look for a charger that offers a 4 stage charging process ( Bulk - Absorption - Equalisation - Float). Unfortunately, I do not understand the instructions that are included with the battery nor this article, above. We have a 1amp and a 4amp smart charger that is affordable that would do great with this type of charging maintenance.
As the battery reaches full charge, the positive plate begins generating dioxide causing a sudden rise in voltage due to decreasing internal resistance. This allows some of the lead sulfate to remain on the electrodes, which will eventually reduce capacity.
They are not battery chargers however, and will never fully charge a Deep Cycle battery, so it’s best to use a battery charger when main power is available to top up the battery charge and avoid reduced battery life from sulphation.
It is for this reason that we highly recommend NOT using GEL batteries with car alternators. A battery rated at 180 amp-hours over 6 hours might be rated at 220 AH at the 20-hour rate, and 250 AH at the 48-hour rate. If a battery is discharged to 50% every day, it will last about twice as long as if it is cycled to 80% DOD. The advantage of these batteries is that it is impossible to spill acid even if they are broken.
If overcharged, voids can develop in the gel which will never heal, causing a loss in battery capacity. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead plates – not sponge. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries. As a general rule, if you are going to use a true deep cycle battery also as a starting battery, it should be oversized about 20% compared to the existing or recommended starting battery group size to get the same cranking amps. In extreme cases, it can vary to extremes – AGM’s can be killed in less than a year by severe overcharging. There are so many variables, such as depth of discharge, maintenance, temperature, how often and how deep cycled, etc. These are usually special purpose “float service”, but often appear on the surplus market as “deep cycle”. If a battery has been discharged for some time, or the load was left on indefinitely, it may not readily take a charge. Caution should be exercised to ensure that the charger is disconnected after cycle charging, or that the float voltage is set correctly.
Differences in capacity can cause some batteries to overcharge while others remain undercharged, thus causing premature aging of batteries. To determine the approximate recharge time of a fully discharged battery, divide the battery’s capacity (amp. The difference in characteristics will cause damage to the batteries and possibly to the attached equipment. Note that a Li-ion battery that received a fully saturated charge will keep the higher voltage longer than one that was fast-charged and terminated at the voltage threshold without a saturation charge. This claim carries merits but if the scientists were totally right, then the battery would live forever. While lead acid offers some flexibility in terms of voltage cut off, manufacturers of Li-ion cells are very strict on the correct setting because Li-ion cannot accept overcharge.
With higher current, Stage 1 is shorter but the saturation during Stage 2 will take longer. Choosing a lower voltage threshold or eliminating the saturation charge altogether, prolongs battery life but this reduces the runtime. State-of-charge (SoC) at this point is about 85 percent, a level that may be sufficient for many users. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loads while charging because they induce mini-cycles.
A parasitic load confuses the charger by depressing the battery voltage and preventing the current in the saturation stage to drop low enough by drawing a leakage current.
The cathode material becomes an oxidizing agent, loses stability and produces carbon dioxide (CO2). All lithium-based batteries are safer at a lower charge, and this is why authorities will mandate air shipment of Li-ion at 30 percent state-of-charge rather than at full charge.
Properly designed charging equipment is paramount for all battery systems and temperature sensing is a reliable watchman.
The charge process can be intermittent, and Li-ion does not need saturation as is the case with lead acid.
However, all communication must be done with the use of appropriate language and the avoidance of spam and discrimination.
We recommend posting your question in the comment sections for the Battery University Group (BUG) to share. Since the charger uses a standard micro USB tip, there are a lot of available chargers out there with different Amp rating. But upon plugging the charger to the batteries the green light immediatley came on, indicating a fully charged pack. When the above charging is done and the battery sits 12 hours, measuring the voltage and setting the float voltage to that is safe and gives maximum capacity but that voltage goes down as the battery ages. I have also considered a 3000mAh battery with an integrated charging circuit would be better. A golf cart style battery like the Trojan T-105 will last for about 750 discharge cycles if the average depth of discharge is at 50% of its capacity. And during storage, if possible, keep your rig plugged in so your batteries don’t waste a discharge cycle. So not sure why the power goes down THAT much each time u just turn the key ready to start. Is there is a “rule of thumb” for a minimum suggested current, based on the CA parameter? However if it was me I would probably use more of a 4 to 6amp charger on a 12V 20ah battery it is a good middle point not to slow and not to fast.
My battery is discharged to less than 8 volts and I would like to charge it but, am not sure how to safely proceed. If you would also suggest a maintenance charger appropriate to this battery also, so that I never discharge it this drastically again ? In the event that I do acquire another or this one does revive,would also suggest a maintenance charger appropriate to this battery also, so that I never discharge one this drastically again ?
The selection of suitable charging circuits and methods is as important as choosing the right battery for the application.
A constant voltage charge, therefore, allows detection of this voltage increase and thus control of the current charge amount. Much of this loss of efficiency is due to higher internal resistance at higher amperage rates – internal resistance is not a constant – kind of like “the more you push, the more it pushes back”. However, there are often ratings for other depth of discharge cycles, the most common ones are 10%, 20%, and 50%. The problem is that “golf car” refers to a size of battery (commonly called GC-2, or T-105), not the type or construction – so the quality and construction of a golf car battery can vary considerably – ranging from the cheap off brand with thin plates up the true deep cycle brands, such as Crown, Powersonic, Trojan, etc. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a “marine” battery, but most are a hybrid.
With modern engines with fuel injection and electronic ignition, it generally takes much less battery power to crank and start them, so raw cranking amps is less important than it used to be. The positive (+) plate is what gets eaten away gradually over time, so eventually there is nothing left – it all falls to the bottom as sediment. While plate thickness is not the only factor in how many deep cycles a battery can take before it dies, it is the most important one. Gelled cells batteries can be destroyed in one day when overcharged with a large automotive charger.

The most expensive provide a pure sine wave which is preferred for any sensitive equipment, especially laptops. A 150W unit will handle most camp requirements, but may have trouble starting a laptop (even though the average drain by the computer is much less than this.) A 300W unit is probably a sensible minimum. To overcome this, leave the charger connected and the battery should eventually begin to accept charge.
Given the right set of circumstances, such as extreme overcharging or shorting of the battery, these gases might vent into the enclosure and create the potential for an explosion when ignited by a spark.
It is, therefore, not advisable to mix batteries of different capacities, make, or age in a series string. The voltage of the charging battery will only catch up when the battery is almost fully charged (see Figure 3.
They blame capacity fade on ions getting trapped, but as with all battery systems, internal corrosion and other degenerative effects still play a role. The so-called miracle charger that promises to prolong battery life and gain extra capacity with pulses and other gimmicks does not exist. Boosting the voltage increases capacity, but going beyond specification stresses the battery and compromises safety. Chargers for consumer products go for maximum capacity and cannot be adjusted; extended service life is perceived less important. Note that a Li-ion battery that has received a fully saturated charge will keep the voltage elevated for a longer than one that has not received a saturation charge. A battery may be fully charged, but the prevailing conditions will prompt a continued charge, causing stress.
This offers a major advantage for renewable energy storage such as a solar panel and wind turbine, which cannot always fully charge the battery. Is it advisable to get a low Amp rating such as 500mah, higher amp such as 1200mah or stick with the same 1000amp?
I commonly pull cells that are totally flat: 0v, sometimes even with polarity reversed by a few millivolts.
A float voltage of 4.1 is reasonable to get best capacity but as the battery gets old, that MIGHT make it age faster. That would offer me more consistent ouput to the device and be a contingency for a lack of or poor lighting. PD’s 9200 series chargers when combined with their Charge Wizard constantly monitors your batteries voltage and selects the proper mode to safely charge your battery. When temperatures reach 122F battery capacity increases by about 12%, however battery life is shortened. Soon as u cut the motor goes to 13 then ticks down for a few min to stable voltage of say 12.5. Of course if the weather gets colder, that's when you will find out how good the battery is. Of course if the weather gets colder, that's when you will find out how good the battery is.Yes I feel all the levels seem normal and it turns really well. Let us know if you have any additional questions or concerns we would be more than happy to assist. Usually, the battery will start to accept increasing amounts of current until a normal current level is reached. You have to be careful when looking at ratings that list how many cycles a battery is rated for unless it also states how far down it is being discharged. Obviously, there are some practical limitations on this – you don’t usually want to have a 5 ton pile of batteries sitting there just to reduce the DOD.
These are also called “starved electrolyte”, as the mat is about 95% saturated rather than fully soaked. The plates are composed of a Lead “sponge”, similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. Although these can be cycled down to 20% charge, the best lifespan vs cost method is to keep the average cycle at about 50% discharge. Starting batteries are usually rated at “CCA”, or cold cranking amps, or “MCA”, Marine cranking amps – the same as “CA”. On the other hand, many cars, boats, and RV’s are more heavily loaded with power sucking “appliances”, such as megawatt stereo systems etc.
Thicker plates are directly related to longer life, so other things being equal, the battery with the thickest plates will last the longest.
Golf cart batteries can be destroyed without ever being used in less than a year because they were left sitting in a hot garage without being charged.
The cheapest simply provide a square wave ac, which is satisfactory with most motors and some small chargers for cameras, phones etc, but not for most laptop computers.
Bear in mind that Watts = Volts x Amps, so, if we draw the full 300 watts, we will require 25 amps from the 12volt battery, plus 20% to account for inefficiency.
Should the pressure rise further, the safety membrane on some Li-ion bursts open at about 3,450kPa (500psi) and the cell might eventually vent with flame. If your concern is about a battery(a standard battery rating will be in volts and mAh), go for either one but in reduction in back up, in case if you chose 500mAh.Hope it cleared your doubt. In addition, some of the battery packs I ripped into were prehistoric by lithium chemistry standards (10 years+).
Letting them set 24 hrs, I looked at the voltage drop and classified the lowest 10% as weak.
I think charging with variable current is satisfactory if current is limited as specified on the data sheet and the voltage is limited to 4.1 volts.
Besides selecting the best-suited voltage thresholds, it is also important that the battery does not stay in the high-voltage stage for a long time and is allowed to drop after full charge has been reached.
I now believe its because I always left the phone on while charging whereas he turns his off. Therefore, extreme temperatures in either direction are not good for your batteries health. When u about to start and put on the ignition it drops to 11.7 and stays there rather low while the first electronics start up.
Batteries that are being charged will be higher – the voltages while under charge will not tell you anything, you have to let the battery sit for a while.
If there is no response, even to charge voltages above recommended levels, the battery may have been in a discharged state for too long to recover. The generally accepted AH rating time period for batteries for nearly all deep cycle batteries is the “20 hour rate”.
For example, one of the widely advertised telephone type (float service) batteries have been advertised as having a 20-year life.
They cannot be fast charged on a conventional automotive charger or they may be permanently damaged.
The newer AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries have all the advantages (and then some) of gelled, with none of the disadvantages. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be consumed and fall to the bottom of the cells. Any battery with the capacity shown in CA or MCA may or may not be a true deep-cycle battery. The negative plate in batteries expands somewhat during discharge, which is why nearly all batteries have separators, such as glass mat (AGM) that can be compressed.
Even the so-called “dry charged” (where you add acid when you need them) have a shelf life of 18 months at most.
There are also intermediate types, “modified sine wave”, which combine a number of square waves to approximate a sine wave shape. The stress level on the battery is high because the cycles occur at the high-voltage threshold, often also at elevated temperature. More often than not all cells would recharge to their FULL original rated capacity and perform as new. So my question is; Why is the charger displaying a Green LED when in fact the batteries need charged.
A 10Hr rating is widely used in the USA, therefore many batteries can have 10hr, 20hr or both specifications stated. If you look at the fine print, it has that rating only at 5% DOD – it is much less when used in an application where they are cycled deeper on a regular basis. This is not usually a problem with solar electric systems, but if an auxiliary generator or inverter bulk charger is used, current must be limited to the manufacturers specifications.
Automotive batteries will generally fail after 30-150 deep cycles if deep cycled, while they may last for thousands of cycles in normal starting use (2-5% discharge). They are not totally dry – they are actually filled with acid, the plates formed and charged, then the acid is dumped out. These are usually satisfactory for laptops, but, like the square wave types, often create a lot of radio interference. This will draw from the battery in 1 hour about the same as all other loads discussed above take in a day. And is there something I can do to make it start charging because the charger doesn’t charge when displaying a green light. This is why most intelligent chargers will have temperature compensation circuitry built in. Occasional dips into the yellow are not harmful, but continual discharges to those levels will shorten battery life considerably. The 20hr rating means that it is discharged down to 10.5 volts over a 20 hour period while the total actual amp-hours it supplies is measured. It’s just that when designing a system when you have some idea of the loads, you should figure on an average DOD of around 50% for the best storage vs cost factor. Better inverters commonly used in solar electric systems can be set to limit charging current to the batteries. Sometimes ratings at the 6 hour rate and 100 hour rate are also given for comparison and for different applications. For example, most golf cart batteries are rated for about 550 cycles to 50% discharge – which equates to about 2 years.
Also, there is an upper limit – a battery that is continually cycled 5% or less will usually not last as long as one cycled down 10%. Unfortunately, the only positive way to tell with some batteries is to buy one and cut it open – not much of an option.
A 2000W one will provide enough power to run power tools or even an electric jug, but at full output they will draw from the battery about 150-200 amps.
Anybody got an older battery or seen where there voltages are at given stages I got a Large red display digital Voltmeter With Cigar Lighter Connector from ebay.
The best determination is to measure the specific gravity, but in many batteries this is difficult or impossible.
The 6-hour rate is often used for industrial batteries, as that is a typical daily duty cycle. This happens because at very shallow cycles, the Lead Dioxide tends to build up in clumps on the positive plates rather than an even film. That’s as much current as they winch when fully loaded, and way outside the comfort zone of any deep cycle battery for long periods of time.
Sometimes the 100 hour rate is given just to make the battery look better than it really is, but it is also useful for figuring battery capacity for long-term applications like backup, solar, and camping amp-hour requirements. Most 1500w-2000w applications such as microwaves and electric kettles will only run for a few minutes, this will be fine to use with a 100AH+ battery.

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Comments Life battery charge voltage relationship

  1. Koshka
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  2. kis_kis
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  3. 606
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  5. 5555555
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